Step bumper mounted receiver hitch
#1
Step bumper mounted receiver hitch
i just recently got a 96 F350 PSD (in my sig) to pull my rock crawler around with. I got lucky (i think) and the truck came with front and rear Ranch hand bumpers. My questions are regarding the rear bumper....it is the cowboy style
http://www.ranchhand.com/backbumpers.htm
My flatbed tandem axle trailer sits up way too high with this bumper and so i bought a bumper mounted receiver hitch so that i could use a 6" drop hitch and level the trailer out better.
~would it be safer to mount the hitch to the top of the bumper or should i go ahead and mount it to the bottom of the bumper mounting surface?
~Why does adding the receiver hitch to the bumper lower the weight ratings of what i can safely tow even if i put it on the top of the bumper mounting surface?
~why is it not recommended to use a weight distributing hitch, those weight distribution hitches are like Heaven and I would like to continue to use mine.
~the bumper is only held up by four bolts total, which are only about 9/16" or so, and i am thinking that that is not enough...would it be wise to upgrade to grade 8 bolts and use something like 3/4" bolts and maybe even adding another bolt totalling to 6, 3/4" bolts?!!?
~would anyone be nervous about mounting the reciver tube to the bottom of the bumper? i just wanna make sure i get the trailer more level b/c as it is now everytime find a real low spot i drag the rear of the trailer and i cringe everytime i do it!
~do i have any other options other than the bumper mounted receiver hitch?
-cutts-
http://www.ranchhand.com/backbumpers.htm
My flatbed tandem axle trailer sits up way too high with this bumper and so i bought a bumper mounted receiver hitch so that i could use a 6" drop hitch and level the trailer out better.
~would it be safer to mount the hitch to the top of the bumper or should i go ahead and mount it to the bottom of the bumper mounting surface?
~Why does adding the receiver hitch to the bumper lower the weight ratings of what i can safely tow even if i put it on the top of the bumper mounting surface?
~why is it not recommended to use a weight distributing hitch, those weight distribution hitches are like Heaven and I would like to continue to use mine.
~the bumper is only held up by four bolts total, which are only about 9/16" or so, and i am thinking that that is not enough...would it be wise to upgrade to grade 8 bolts and use something like 3/4" bolts and maybe even adding another bolt totalling to 6, 3/4" bolts?!!?
~would anyone be nervous about mounting the reciver tube to the bottom of the bumper? i just wanna make sure i get the trailer more level b/c as it is now everytime find a real low spot i drag the rear of the trailer and i cringe everytime i do it!
~do i have any other options other than the bumper mounted receiver hitch?
-cutts-
#2
I would suggest that you use a frame mounted receiver instead of the bumper mounted model. You should be able to find one to fit your style bumper. The reason they say not to use a weight distributing hitch is that the torsion bars put stress on the receiver. Normally this is absorbed by the frame. I would imagine that this could put too much stress on the bumper and the mounting hardware.
Last edited by johnsdiesel; 10-21-2004 at 12:13 AM.
#3
#4
#5
#7
I did use one of the bumper mounted recivers with an equalizing hitch for a while. I was poor, and it was just around town at low speeds. (I didn't say it was smart, so don't kill me here)
Anyway after not very long the 4 bolts that hold the hitch to the frame (you were talking about) started to move around from the forces the equalizer bars were exerting on the bumper. The result was after less then 100 miles of towing I had bolts that were warn way down and oval shaped holes in the frame of the truck. The entire bumper (the hitch) was moving around as I drove.
My trailer wasn't anywhere near 8k So I'd say don't do it. It might work for a while but not for long.
Anyway after not very long the 4 bolts that hold the hitch to the frame (you were talking about) started to move around from the forces the equalizer bars were exerting on the bumper. The result was after less then 100 miles of towing I had bolts that were warn way down and oval shaped holes in the frame of the truck. The entire bumper (the hitch) was moving around as I drove.
My trailer wasn't anywhere near 8k So I'd say don't do it. It might work for a while but not for long.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
You are still Mickey Mousing something together. I would look at all the hitch options first. There may be a hitch out there that will fit your vehicle with the low bumper.
I just did a search using the site supplied by johnsdiesel. I came up with 3 hitches that will fit your vehicle with a 10" drop cowboy bumper. 2 class IV and 1 class V.
I just did a search using the site supplied by johnsdiesel. I came up with 3 hitches that will fit your vehicle with a 10" drop cowboy bumper. 2 class IV and 1 class V.
Last edited by kingfish51; 10-21-2004 at 11:46 AM.
#12
yea kingfish, i agree with you and am gonna be as safe as i can.
how do you measure the drop in the bumper? i am not sure if i have the 8" or 10"...isn't it from the top of the bumper to the bottom of the step part?
i have a receiver hitch laying in my garage and was thinking maybe i could get bigger (meaning more of a drop) spreader bar mounts (the sides of the hitch system that actually bolts to the frame) and then get them made with thicker steel
-cutts-
how do you measure the drop in the bumper? i am not sure if i have the 8" or 10"...isn't it from the top of the bumper to the bottom of the step part?
i have a receiver hitch laying in my garage and was thinking maybe i could get bigger (meaning more of a drop) spreader bar mounts (the sides of the hitch system that actually bolts to the frame) and then get them made with thicker steel
-cutts-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; 10-21-2004 at 11:59 AM.
#13
I am not sure how they measure the drop in the bumper. I looked at the site you supplied andsaw that the largest drop was 10". That's how I did the search on the other site.
As for the receiver you have, does the manufacturer have other spreader bars available? What class is the receiver? What amount of weight do you expect to be towing?
You really need that information to answer the questions. As you have an F350, I would assume you probably want to go with a class IV or V, otherwise you are not going to be able to tow as much as your truck can handle.
As for the receiver you have, does the manufacturer have other spreader bars available? What class is the receiver? What amount of weight do you expect to be towing?
You really need that information to answer the questions. As you have an F350, I would assume you probably want to go with a class IV or V, otherwise you are not going to be able to tow as much as your truck can handle.
#14
i wanna be able to handle 10,000 just to be safe so i am gonna go with a Class V. the one i have is a class 5 but it won't clear my 10" drop (it is 10" i went out and measured)
i am gonna check on just buying parts rather than a whole hitch but i may be better off getting the whole thing
i am about to call RanchHand (maker of my bumper) when they get back from lunch and see what they recommend me doing cause i am sure they have ppl all the time with the same concerns as i do
-cutts-
i am gonna check on just buying parts rather than a whole hitch but i may be better off getting the whole thing
i am about to call RanchHand (maker of my bumper) when they get back from lunch and see what they recommend me doing cause i am sure they have ppl all the time with the same concerns as i do
-cutts-
#15
depends upon your fabricating skills, but you have some options, you can modify the hitch you have, but be sure to use adequate material, or you can brace up the bumper mount, which would be a modification of you receiver and the bumper for stabilization Best option is a properly manufactured and tested receiver, but if you choose to build such, make sure to do a quality job.