Hi I am trying to figure out what makes the front Auto hubs engage/disengage. There are no wire/hoses that go to the hub assembly itself. don't see any metal particles in the grease. Does someone have a picture of the inside of hubs in good condition? The complaint is when in sand and 4H or 4L the front wheels make a slamming noise with a little gas like their trying to engage. I thougt maybe was the relay. It tested ok. Where is the actuator for the hubs? Thanks

 

Your front hubs are engaged from the front axles rotating after the 4WD is selected. There are cams inside the hub that will rotate when the axles start to rotate. This brings the parts of the outer hub into contact with the axles and you are in 4WD. There is no other activation system on the stock setup. They should not bang into lock. Be sure that the transfer case is shifting. If it is not shifting, then the motor on the rear of the transfer case may be bad. It is not hard to get to. The hubs are easy to work on. Mine were not working proper and all I had to do was disassemble and clean. Then lube properly. The lube is where a lot of problem start. Then it is lack of use so that forces you to go playing more often. Gotta keep the hubs working. Get a manual and follow it.

The best thing to do is put on manual locking hubs. This way, you know they are locked. It is just a $200 expense and not hard to do. I just have not wanted to spend the money yet but I will some day. Hopefully before they break when I need 4WD.

Az Pete

 

Qustion...when you intall manual locking hubs do you have to still hit the selector in the cab after you lock them manually? Or will they just be engaged from when you do that? Just wondering, if you could put manual lockers on and leave them in lock w/o actually being in 4x4. So that all you would have to do is switch the selector.

 

The manual locking hubs must be rotated at the axle to lock, then you switch to 4WD inside the cab. Yes, you could just leave them locked all the time but it will make a big difference on your gas mileage and it will cause excessive wear on the entire front end. When locked, the entire front axle set will be turning all the time. I do not recommend locking them all the time. What I have done on other 4X4's I have had is to lock them prior to leaving the house when I know I am just a short way to the off road area. Once there, I then can shift in and out of 4WD as needed.

Az Pete

 

Thanks for the good description. What lube would you/Ford recommend?

 

I have used a light weight lithium grease. You do not want to thick of a grease because it will bind up the movements of the cams inside the hubs. I have even used vaseline at times. Never had problems out of either one. Don't apply to much grease either, just a light coating.

Az. Pete

 

Az Pete,
You seem knowlagable in 4x4. My question is on a 97 Ranger with the typical compliant of noise when disengaging:
Better to service or replace? If replacement is the answer, can they be purchased aftermarket (auto lockers) or are they DIO?

 

I would first do a service on them, either auto or manual. Autos are expensive to replace and repair. Manuals run about $200 for replacing the old autos. The new autos are about $600 from Ford, the only source I know of. Not sure when Ford changed the hubs from the style on my '96. Manual hubs may not be available for your application.


Az. Pete

 

just had manual hubs installed. Ford wanted $800-900 to fix ONE manual hub...had 4 wheel parts install manuals for $350 out the door. I haven't had a chance to off road yet, but I tested them out to make sure thy work. I think this slight hassle of having to get out of the car is worth it.

 

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Matt

 

Amazingly, that is exactly the way the newer Ranger 4x4's work! The transfer case is switched into & out of 4WD and the front wheels are driving the axle all the time. There is NO lock/unlock system for the hubs. It's bound to affect gas mileage, yet I'm getting 18 to/from work.

Pat

 

It will effect mileage just like the lack of hubs on a full size ones do. Just the joys of the newer, better ideas. I don't think anyone has made a set of hubs to unlock the newer style either.

 

what I should have written was that I had manual hubs installed because for wanted $800-$900 to fix one AUTO hub...forget that. The mechanic i talked too had an older broncoII, and said the problem on my car (or his, I forget now, it's been a few months) was a very small part, but you can't buy just that part, you have to buy the whole hub assembly. Knowing that manuals were pretty cheap, I stopped listening when he said "800 or so for one hub"...