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diesels are cowards when it come to cold

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  #46  
Old 10-15-2004, 10:23 AM
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Hmmm, has anyone thought about using a DuPont product to get a fire going in a diesel engine that is not starting as desired? I would think that throwing small chips of C4 in the intake tube would give 'em a little boost. Of course, one would see the same damaging effects much more quickly than when just using ether.
 
  #47  
Old 10-15-2004, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustangfreak
The guy at Ford said he didnt know a whole lot about the strokes, but he suggested the relay, and then I called my grandfather, who retired from Ford as a mechanic in 96, said it was the relay as well. But he told me to let Ford install it Thats gonna cost a pretty penny
I had the same problem and just replaced the relay, all better now. DO NOT let the dealer install it, too easy to do it yourself. The dealer wants $113 plus tax for the relay, go here:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
and get it from this guy for less then 1/3rd the price. Good luck,
 
  #48  
Old 10-15-2004, 10:46 AM
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Please, PLEASE understand that I was joking. My fear is that someone will take my C4 comment seriously.

On another note, and not advocating ether for starting a PSD, but in those cases where there are spark plugs and timing, as Ford352 and Believer45 have stated, one can use ether, or another starting agent, on a 'gasser'.

However, it will 'dry' the cylinder walls, as has already been noted. I was told/taught a long time ago that the better choice would be to use something highly flamable and yet with a lubricating property.

That statement makes sense, so I've followed the recommendations of the person that shared that thought with me and have been using WD-40 for 12 years in my Waverunners in early spring and lawn tractors in winter months. And yes, they fire off just as quickly as if I had used ether. I have not yet had any problems with any of these engines, and no need to pull the heads to examine the piston crowns. So there may be unknown damages being done. But in my mind I feel a lot better about using WD-40 as a starting agent.

Now, please don't let the preceding paragraph be mistaken as my recommendation to use WD-40 as a starting agent for your PSD. I'm just sharing the info with regards to starting problems with a gasoline engine. Perhaps this isn't the correct thread. Sorry.
 
  #49  
Old 10-15-2004, 03:21 PM
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Check the glow plugs, the glow plug relay, and use a winter diesel additive like Stanadyne Performance Formula or Diesel Kleen to help lower the pour point. Ether is fine for older diesels, but I wouldn't put it into my engine. If something isn't working on the engine, fix it. Don't spend the time and money to set up an "alternative" system to do the same thing.

I don't know how many miles you have on your truck, but if you're going to take the time to change a glow plug on 1 side, you might as well change them all on that side. If you do both sides it might also be a good idea to change the injector o-rings as well. It will save you time in the longrun and the parts aren't that expensive.
 

Last edited by johnsdiesel; 10-15-2004 at 03:26 PM.
  #50  
Old 10-15-2004, 04:23 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by SilentlySoaring
Please, PLEASE understand that I was joking. My fear is that someone will take my C4 comment seriously.
Too late.
 

Last edited by FORD352V8; 10-15-2004 at 04:27 PM.
  #51  
Old 10-16-2004, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by johnsdiesel
Check the glow plugs, the glow plug relay, and use a winter diesel additive like Stanadyne Performance Formula or Diesel Kleen to help lower the pour point. Ether is fine for older diesels, but I wouldn't put it into my engine. If something isn't working on the engine, fix it. Don't spend the time and money to set up an "alternative" system to do the same thing.

I don't know how many miles you have on your truck, but if you're going to take the time to change a glow plug on 1 side, you might as well change them all on that side. If you do both sides it might also be a good idea to change the injector o-rings as well. It will save you time in the longrun and the parts aren't that expensive.
So, if say the glow plugs were replaced and the o-rings were not, could this cause the "blue smoke on startup" syndrome?
 
  #52  
Old 10-16-2004, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by coollooking96F350
So, if say the glow plugs were replaced and the o-rings were not, could this cause the "blue smoke on startup" syndrome?
There's a whole bunch of things that can cause blue smoke on startup. Severely worn o-rings can be the cause of smoke as well from burning oil.
 
  #53  
Old 10-17-2004, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lancer
Another thing to try (i know it sounds wierd) is to put a hairdryer in the intake tube. It has worked for me several times. I just pulled the cover of the air filter and suck it in the hole. The warm air helps ignite the fuel like a heated intake. Just another thought
That is a great idea. My 01 Dodge Cummins (please don't bash me for my choice of truck/engine. My last 2 trucks were Ford), has a similar setup like the hair dryer. Instead of glow plugs heating the air in the cylinders, I have 2 main intake heaters (see picture) called grid heaters. They are stacked, one on top of the other. These super heat the intake air then feed the cylinders. Each heater draws about 90 amps. The heaters only have a 2 second wait to start above 60°. At 59° and below the heater stays on for 10 seconds before you start and will cycle to help warm up the engine until coolant temp reaches 140°.

There is a warning inside the hood that says DO NOT USE STARTING FLUIDS TO START ENGINE. IMMEDIATE TURBOCHARGER DAMAGE MAY RESULT. . For how expensive it is to replace a turbo or an engine for that matter, I would much rather use my block heater than use ether.

 
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