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I have a 1984 Bronco II, 4 Speed manualTransmission, 4WD with 116K original mostly highway miles. The clutch pedal is engaging almost at the top of travel and I can't find an adjustment anywhere. The hydraulic system seems OK; but again, no way to add fluid or adjust. The dealership is saying that the clutch needs replaced but based on low clutch use I doubt that it's really worn that much. Any ideas?
There has got to be a resevoir for the fluid,even if it is remote mounted in the engine compartment. as far as adjustment,there probably isn't any. You see, when the disc wears down a bit,the release fingers on the pressure plate get even closer to the t/o bearing causing a higher pedal.If fluid doesn't solve it you will need a new disc at least.
I have a 84 Ranger 4x4 5 speed and 88 Bronco ll 4x4 5 speed. The Ranger has over 230,000 miles and the Bronco ll has over 150,000 miles. Mosty higeway miles.I have replaced the clutch 2 times in the Ranger. The first time I replaced the pressure plate,disk,& thoughout bearing.The last time all the above plus the ringgear,pilot bearing and had the flywheel surfaced.The Bronco I peplaced the clutch disk,plate,thoughtout bearing & the slave cyl.You need to replace your clutch.
How much of a hassle was the clutch replace job...I haven't messed with a 4WD that much.
And, do you remember the condition of the clutch disk? Was it worn down close to the rivets or was there still material left? If there is still material left, I'm thinking of rigging somewhat of an adjustment by adding length to the slave cylinder rod...this should get extra miles out of the thing.
Also, I wonder if the clutch is basically the same on the Bronco as the Ranger? That would account for the very short clutch life on the Bronco as it is heavier then the Ranger.
There the same clutch the Bronco clutch because my wife drives the truck and slips the clutch to much.I do my own repairs. I removed the transfercase first to make it lighter.You have to remove the exhaust first,then the driveshaft,then the crossmember,shifter,linkage for the transfercase,transfercase,I think the front drive shaft is slips on.Then remove the trans.If you have a 2wd truck then it's alot easyer.
first try bleeding the slave cylinder w/ a tiny allen wrench on the top of the cylinder. next you cant adjust these clutches. riding the clutch will do this to you. if the bleeding dont work then get a new clutch and make sure you put the starter back up shimmed the same way or you'll find one bad start will frag the hell outta your ring gear then you'll have to go right back in there..
I have the same prob with the clutch engaging at the top of my clutch travel. To replace the clutch pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing is so obvious I will not bore you with such minor thoughts. The problem is obviously more than those things. I replaced all the items listed above and now my clutch pedal engages at about half travel. This is not correct or proper for a clutch pedal. If you look under the hood you will find the reservoir on the driver side in the corner of the firewall and fender.
Even if I have to manipulate the clutch pedal I will solve this problem!!! I will try to adjust with the allen screw first as suggested by another person in your replies. I just got my new parts today and installed this evening so I havent had time to do any adjustment yet. I will keep you posted. oh yes I have 76,000 miles on my vehicle and this is the first replacement of the above parts. This is normal for these vehicles. notice another reply you have a guy telling about his vehicle having 150,000 miles and he has replaced twice. so it all adds up to approx 75 to 78,000. Good Luck and Later Dude.
To all who are wondering, there is no manual clutch adjustment. Bronco II's came with a clutch system that automatically adjusted itself. The only thing you can do is to check your clutch fluid and drive. When the clutch has adjusted itself, it will engage/disengage at the top of travel. All of them except maybe the oldest lowest end models have this system. I wet to replace my clutch when I thought it was worn and there was no adjustment, but I had a good 1/8" of meat per side. it had minor wear on it, but that was it. B2's aren't machines that go through clutches like brakes. They should last about 200K or more. Unless there's a cable going to your clutch, you don't need to replace your clutch. You wouldn't want to either. They are the biggest pains in the butt if you don't have all the right tools.
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