I just completed the Daystar installation on my 05 FX4 Screw and thought that you all might like to know what is involved. If you don't know a couple of the tricks necessary for the installation it is a nightmare. My objective here is to let you all in on those tricks. Before I get started I would like to thank DarkFX4 for the pointer on getting the ball joint loose.

First and foremost - have a large assortment of metric and standard sockets and boxed in wrenches. Every nut and bolt is a different size. Some are odd sizes you don't see everyday - like 13/16ths. You will be much better off if you use a half inch drive as well. Some of the bolts are on pretty tight. You also need to have a good set of spring compressors. The springs on my FX4 were super stiff and required alot of work to compress them. You can rent the spring compressors from the local auto supply or buy a good set for around $70. I bought mine since I will be using them for other projects (67 Mustang).

The instructions that come with the kit are pretty basic and do not give you much guidance as far as taking things apart and putting them together. This is the main reason for this post. The following is a list of tricks that I learned the hard way while installing the Daystar leveling kit. They are meant to fill in between the lines of the instructions.

1. Ball Joint Removal
When I started the job I did the driver side first. I could not figure out how to pop the ball joint loose. After alot of frustration, prying, and busted knuckles I was able to complete the installation without removing the ball joint. This is most definately not the way to do it. It took me a long time to get it done and I was super frustrated when I was done. I figured that I would use the same method on the passenger side. I was way wrong when I tryed it. Things just did not work out the same and I had to ask DarkFX4 for help. The following method of popping the ball joint loose is his. Thanks - it was literally a life saver. When the instructions say to seperate the upper control arm from the steering arm, or spindle, (removing the ball joint) the easiest way to do it is by giving the spindle a couple of good wacks with a hammer. I used a 3lb sledge. It took 2 strikes - one on the outer portion and one in the front (towards the grill). Make sure you do not completely remove the bolt from the ball joint. If you do the thing will fly apart and you may hurt yourself. I almost learned the hard way. By keeping the bolt on, the ball joint will pop but not fly out of the spindle. By popping the ball joint loose you will have plenty of room to install the strut assembly.

2. Pay attention to the way things are
Before you disassemble the strut assembly take note of the direction of the bolt hole for the bottom of the strut in relation to the bolts on the top of the strut. The bolts on the top of the strut are not equal distances from each other. You will notice that strut 'cap' will have 3 indentions. 2 long ones and 1 short one that will form a circle with the studs. I noted the position of the bolt hole based on the stud at the top of the strut that was closest to the engine when the strut is installed. I you don't remember to do this the first time you will after you try to install the strut.

3. Disassembly of the strut
As I stated earlier, make sure you have a GOOD set of strut spring compressors. Before you remove the bolt from the top of the strut compress the spring as much as possible. Once you get the strut assembly apart compress the springs even more. You probably got tired earlier and did not compress them enough. Remember, you are putting a spacer in that is bigger than the one you are removing.

4. Two people
After you reassemble the strut and get it mounted back onto the truck you need to find a helper. Getting the ball joint bolt back into the spindle is difficult to do by yourself. You will notice that the spindle, which bears the weight of the rotor and caliper, falls out and backward once the ball joint is completely removed from it. When putting things back together I reattached the steering link to help hold the spindle a little more upright. You will also notice that the upper control arm has a natural tendancy to spring upwards. To put the ball joint back into the top of the spindle you will need to position the spindle and pull the upper control arm down so that the ball joint bolt is guided into the spindle. You will also have to thread the bolt while you are pulling down on the upper control arm and holding the spindle. This is why it is easier with two people. This is not that difficult it just takes a little muscle and some coordination with the other person. My wife and I did it so it can't be that hard.

5. Spinning bolts
Another thing I found was that many of the bolts you are dealing with are part of some kind of joint. Due to this the bolts start spinning when you try to tighten the nut. The ball joint is a good example. This is a good time to have an adjustable wrench or vice grips. All of the bolts that may spin on you have a tappered end that is square and has no threads. When the bolt starts to spin, hold it still by the square end with your ajustable wrench or vice grips. This means that you will not be able to use a socket so make sure you have another adjustable wrench or a good set of boxed end wrenches.

I hope this information will help. I went in blind and it took me 8 hours. Most of it was because I was doing things wrong. If I would have known how to pop the ball joint loose it would have taken me an hour and a half total. I will put some pictures of the install in my gallery. Check there if you are interested. Overall the installation was worth it. As long as you know these little tricks you will get the job done with no problems.

Hope this helps!

 

Install pictures are in now my gallery. Some of the text did not turn out well after I transfered them from my computer to the gallery but I think you will get the idea. The before and after pictures of the truck are like the pictures in diet pill commercials. What can I say, the whether in Houston changes hourly.

I forgot to mention in the previous post - make sure you have a good set of jack stands and a good floor jack. The truck sits pretty high especially after you install the lift.

 

Nice truck...

Saw pix with measure, so it raised 3" in front and still .5" lower in front?
I thought its suppose be 2.5" ?

Is that 285/65/18 BFG ATKO???

YOMAN!

 

I noticed that too. I tried to messure the same way both times but I may have been off a little on the way I angled the tape measure. A half inch is alot to be off though. The truck looks level and that is what I wanted.

Tires are 275/65/18 BFG Rugged Trail A/T

 

Super job. You are a great asset to the forumn

 

Glad to help. This forum has given me a load of info so I thought I needed to give some back.

 

Noticed that bolt turining too, I over came that with a impact. The ball joint removal was not an issue for me, I did not do it, and it was easy. A pry bar will get you past the point you need that out.

 

I used a pry bar on the driver's side. It was much easier when the ball joint was popped on the passenger side.

 

Looking to level out my FX4 SCab when I get back from Iraq this month. Was wondering which kit to use. You can see by the pics in gallery that my *** end is WAY higher than the front... and that's with the 35.7 gal tank 3/4 full!

Great pics of the install... Your truck looks great now. Leveling on the FX4 is exactly what I wanted. Looks like I'll be going with Daystar.

Thanks!

 

Good looking truck!

 

thanks for all the info. sweet looking truck.

 

Thanks for the info. Did you notice parts that looked stressed after install. For example any parts that were moved into wierd angles that could cause quicker wear on them?

 

just a quick question. i was looking at the pics in your gallery and i have a question about the one where you can see the top red spacer. i thought the daystar kit was two pieces. one for the top of the coil and one for the bottom. i think the bottom spacer gives 1/2"-3/4" of lift and the top does the rest. i am only seeing the top spacer. am i missing something? could this be why you measurement is off?

anyway...it does look good. nice job!

 

You are correct. The kit comes with a total of 4 spacers, two for each side. One spacer goes into the strut replacing the existing coil sprint insulator. The other spacer goes between the top of the strut and the body. When the strut is put back onto the truck you can't see the spacer that goes between the strut and the body. I suppose you could leave the spacer out of the strut and just use the one that fits between the strut and the body and get around 1.5" of lift.

As far as noticing any parts that looked stressed I did not see anything. I got the truck aligned today and the tech that did it said that the kit made things real close on the limits of the factory specs. I believe he was talking about the camber. I asked him if I needed to do anything to make sure nothing gets hurt and he said no. He said I was still within acceptable ranges and not to worry about it. This was at NTB.

What really sucks is that I barely fit in my parking garage at work. If I ever put taller tires on my truck I will be parking outside at work for good. I am really close in my garage at home as well.

 

me bad. now i get it. i thought the spacers went on the top and bottom of the coil.