Wandering truck
#1
Wandering truck
Ok my 96 Ranger has a major wandering problem. I'm used to it but when my wife drives it she gets terrified. It's like there is way too much play in the steering, and the reaction is slow to respond when you do decide to "straighten her out". I'm guessing this to be tie-rod ends, but which is more likely the cause? Outter or inner? Or while I'm under there should I just do both and be done with it? I've never done inner tie-rods...is it tough? One more thing....should I do the ball joiints at the same time? One more question...I know my old jeep wranger had a problem with the steering stabilizer....could this be the problem?
#2
#3
usually if the vehicle has over 60K miles the ball joints are due for changing..the lower one usually wears out first but both upper/lower should be replaced at the same time. Same thing with the tie rod ends..inner and outter. Then check all your bushings. when all that work is done..take it to a place that does a good alignment..a place that knows how to do camber adjustments. i just did all the bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends on mine then had a good alignment done at a shop where a friend of mine works that i know and can trust to do a good job. The truck now steers and rides better then it did when i bought it new 125K miles ago. mine is a 96 Ranger
#4
Do a thorough inspection of the tie rod ends, idler arm, ball joints, and pitman arm. Check for loose wheel bearings. Check tire pressures and condition. What tires are you running and are they the right size and of the same brand all the way around? FWIW, I've got 177,000 miles on my Ranger and I've never had to replace a front end part. It'll pass any inspection and can be aligned (and hold the alignment) at any shop. Also, if any shop tries to sell you it's bad shocks, it's time to quickly leave the place.
#5
The tie-rod ends both inner and outter look relatively easy. The lower ball joints look pretty simple as well, but the upper...not thats a different story. They look like they could be a real pain in the butt. Should I do the ball joints only or should I opt to do the controller arm as well...you know the one that is rivetted together?
#6
I would check the steering rack if your truck is wandering. The outer tie rod end is visable and easy to check. Just have someone slowly move the steering wheel while you see if there is any play in the tie rod end. Sometimes you can hear a slight "klunk" when the inner tie rod end is starting to wear. You can adjust the toe yourself with a regular carpenters tape measure. You should have no more than 1/16 of an inch toe in. It should not toe out at all. You need to jack your truck up under the lower control arm and put a pry bar under the tire to find play in the ball joints. You shouldnt have any visable play at all. I have replaced ball joints one at a time with out any problems. You need a special tool that looks like a heavy duty C-clamp to get them out and install them. I check my truck out from bumper to bumper every 3,000 miles when I change the oil. It has 127,000 miles on it and handles like a new one. Just remember that once front end parts start to wear, they can wear out to the point that they can be dangerous very quickly. Good Luck..
#7
Well, I jackerd her up and pulled the tires to give her a going over today. It seems like the ball joints and tie rod ends are fine. However, the stabilizer bar bushing looks pretty rough, when I went to grease it the grease just spewed out of it from all around it. Somehow I doubt this be the problem with the slow response in steering. But that is why I am here. Could this be it?
One more thing....should the 4x4 hub covers come off easily when you pull the tire? Mine practically came off with the tires....? What gives with that?
One more thing....should the 4x4 hub covers come off easily when you pull the tire? Mine practically came off with the tires....? What gives with that?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KCFordFANatic
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
09-24-2010 08:10 PM