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1974 F250 Heater Core Removal

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  #1  
Old 09-29-2004, 01:15 AM
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1974 F250 Heater Core Removal

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I have to replace a heater core in a 1974 f250 2wd with a high output heater tomorrow, and as I see it there are no visible bolts holding the box together, nor can I see any attaching the box to the firewall.
I see alot of rivits but no bolts.
Can anybody tell me how Im supposed to get at the core of this problem (pun intended)
 
  #2  
Old 09-29-2004, 01:41 AM
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Why do you have to replace it why cant you just have it bypassed?
-Chris
 
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Old 09-29-2004, 06:49 AM
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Arte probably needs to replace the core because it's about to get cool in Canada! There is a tech article on heater core replacement in the tech articles section - upper right side of the page.

On my '77 non-A/C, non high output heater truck, the bolts attaching the box to the firewall are only visible in the engine compartment. There are three or four studs with nuts protruding through the firewall - one of which is located in the transmission recess of the firewall. On mine I just disconnected the heater hoses, heater control cable and removed the nuts in the engine compartment, then wrestled the housing out. However, the caveat is that I don't know if the process is similar for the high output heater. Perhaps this will give you something to look at though.
 
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Old 09-29-2004, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by firstonraceday
On my '77 non-A/C, non high output heater truck, the bolts attaching the box to the firewall are only visible in the engine compartment. There are three or four studs with nuts protruding through the firewall - one of which is located in the transmission recess of the firewall. On mine I just disconnected the heater hoses, heater control cable and removed the nuts in the engine compartment, then wrestled the housing out.
The steps are the same for regular and high output heaters in non-a/c trucks. The tech article ONLY applies to 73-79s with FACTORY a/c.

Marty
 

Last edited by 73Custom; 09-29-2004 at 08:18 AM.
  #5  
Old 09-29-2004, 10:00 AM
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Ya gotta love engeneers dont ya?
I will be trying to get it out in about half an hour Ill let you know how it went and if I can add anymore input.
Thanks
 
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:30 AM
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I know you have to loosen the bolt on the right side dash where is meets the kick panel.
The reason being you have to pull the dashboard out a little to get the heater box out.
 
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Old 09-29-2004, 07:46 PM
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I did not have to loosen the dash or any other bolts to remove the heater box in my 76 F250
removed just to clean the leaves out so I had defroster that would work and the fan didn't sound like a card on bicycle spokes
 
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Old 09-30-2004, 12:36 AM
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Hey all thanks for the replies
Heres the procedure I just followed today.
Step 1
Undo the fancy high tech cardboard glove box insert. (to be able to get to the next step
Step 2
Remove the passenger vent door box.
Remove the floor heat direction deflector box over the trans. tunnel.
Step3
Remove the two control cables.
Undo the antenna coax.
Step 3
Unplug the heater control, OH for christ sake unplug everything conected to the big black box under the dash.
Step 4
This is the major source of frustration, Remove the bolt attaching the dash to the kick panel (about 2 inches up from the bottem of the bottom of the dash(with a light and a kinked neck you can see it))
Also to avoid cracking th dash paint and to allow more movement remove the bolt under the lighter socket connecting the dash to the structure.
Step 5 Under hood
Remove the two heater hoses.
Remove the two nuts that look like they hold the heater fan.
Remove the nut about middle of the trans tunnel directly behind the engine.
Remove the ground for the fan as well as unplug the power wire for same.
Step 6
Curse all automotive engeneeers for being so utterly stupid and designing this stuff without ever having to work on it.
Step 7
Pull the entire black box back.
Jocky the passenger side of the box down while pulling the loosened dash also back.
Flip the top forward while pulling the bottom back as well as pulling the whole assy. down towards the passenger door and out.(Watch that the heater cable bracket below the lighter socket doesnt get hung up on the dash.)
Step 8
Swear that if you ever get in the same room as an automotive engeneer that you will beat him within an inch of his life.
Its out and if you need any further instructions on how to change the actual core you need more help than I can give you.
To put it all back together , Well Im sure you can figure that out now that you got it out.

<God damn moth&r f*&*ng Labotimized over overpaid brain dead stupid assed thumb sucking panty wearing engeneers!!>
 
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Old 09-30-2004, 12:41 AM
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73f350sc

Originally Posted by 73f350sc
Why do you have to replace it why cant you just have it bypassed?
-Chris
Hey DUDE we all can't surf year round, Its starting to get freakin cold up here in the great white north.
You know the place where we get 8 months of winter and 4 months of bad sledding.EH!
 

Last edited by Arte; 09-30-2004 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Spelling
  #10  
Old 09-30-2004, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by firstonraceday
Arte probably needs to replace the core because it's about to get cool in Canada! There is a tech article on heater core replacement in the tech articles section - upper right side of the page.

On my '77 non-A/C, non high output heater truck, the bolts attaching the box to the firewall are only visible in the engine compartment. There are three or four studs with nuts protruding through the firewall - one of which is located in the transmission recess of the firewall. On mine I just disconnected the heater hoses, heater control cable and removed the nuts in the engine compartment, then wrestled the housing out. However, the caveat is that I don't know if the process is similar for the high output heater. Perhaps this will give you something to look at though.
THANKS for the reply it helped alot the tech article was very involved for my situation but gave me some pointers.
How can I post my solution to the tech articles section?
 
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Old 09-30-2004, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I know you have to loosen the bolt on the right side dash where is meets the kick panel.
The reason being you have to pull the dashboard out a little to get the heater box out.
Thanks for your reply I only wish I was home to get it I fought like hell to get the box out before I found the bolt.
 
  #12  
Old 09-30-2004, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Arte
73f350sc


Hey DUDE we all can't surf year round, Its starting to get freakin cold up here in the great white north.
You know the place where we get 8 months of winter and 4 months of bad sledding.EH!
Geez it was just a question no need to bite my head off. FYI Im the farthest thing from a surfer that you can be. Not everyone in California has a beach in their fonrt yard and theres plenty of cold in my area. As for the wonderful colloquialisms that you seems to think Californians use, not all of us need to use them. So maybey you should consider your reponses to a simple question before you offend people.
-Chris
 
  #13  
Old 09-30-2004, 06:25 AM
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Glad to hear you got it fixed, or got started on it. Were already getting snow here, so i fully understand how important a heater is. I just had a fun experience under the dash replacing my wiper pivots. It wasnt so bad after i figured there is a little clip holding the arms to the box, but fiddling around till then sure did suck. Working under the dash is always fun though. I think it would be great if you could turn your repair into a tech article , hopefully Admin. can help you get it ready, and get it posted.
-EDIT-
I deleted some stupid remarks i made earlier when i posted this the first time. After thinking I realized that 73F350SC didnt put his first post in to hint at ignoring the problem, or not fixing it. He prolably put it in to help, ofcourse. None of us knew why the core was being replaced, could have been that it was leaking, or that its failure was somehow effecting the drivability of the truck. The suggestion of bypassing the box, in my opinion. was a suggestion to solve a leak, or get the truck driving temporarily untill resources and/or parts could be found to fix it. I dont know if that was the case, but if it was.....Just something to think about.


---JOHN
 

Last edited by Colo79Ford; 09-30-2004 at 06:43 AM.
  #14  
Old 09-30-2004, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 73f350sc
Geez it was just a question no need to bite my head off. FYI Im the farthest thing from a surfer that you can be. Not everyone in California has a beach in their fonrt yard and theres plenty of cold in my area. As for the wonderful colloquialisms that you seems to think Californians use, not all of us need to use them. So maybey you should consider your reponses to a simple question before you offend people.
-Chris
Sorry if I offended you that was not my intent.
It was just stereo type sarcasm.
People in Toronto call B.C. the sunshine coast and figure we all sunbath and surf year round.
My comment was meant as humour only (maybe not the best humour but humour just the same)
No offence intended dont take it to heart.
I was actually born in California.
Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old 09-30-2004, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Colo79Ford
I deleted some stupid remarks i made earlier when i posted this the first time. After thinking I realized that 73F350SC didnt put his first post in to hint at ignoring the problem, or not fixing it. He prolably put it in to help, ofcourse. None of us knew why the core was being replaced, could have been that it was leaking, or that its failure was somehow effecting the drivability of the truck. The suggestion of bypassing the box, in my opinion. was a suggestion to solve a leak, or get the truck driving temporarily untill resources and/or parts could be found to fix it. I dont know if that was the case, but if it was.....Just something to think about.


---JOHN
Thanks John,
As a matter of fact i was trying to find out more about the situation that Arte was facing. Arte, you may want to consider that we cant hear a sarcastic tone in your type, thank you though for clarifying your intent.
-Chris
 


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