Intending to keep current '54 F-100 rear end (for awhile) but want to have new axle shafts made with 4 1/2" lug spacing. Can the bearings be removed (and replaced with new) easily? Agree replacing whole rear end would be the better solution but I am working alone. Any ball-park $price$ on having axles made up? Has anyone done this before?

 

I would have the old holes filled in and new holes drilled. I have to ask what are you are doing that you want to change the axle bolt pattern? If you are trying to match something on the front it might be easier to have the front hubs redrilled to match the rear.

 

The Dana 44 isn't terribly hard to work on, but it's MUCH easier to use a press to install the outer bearings than to use a hammer & pipe or drift. Easier on the bearings, too. Not saying it can't be done that way, though. My cheap press cost $99.00 & I use it constantly. As far as axle cost, Moser Engineering will do a nice set of street axles for $295 + shipping. Depending on your needs, they may be overkill. The price for a weld-up & redrill used to be about $100 or so, but I imagine inflation has hit there too. I use the D44s in my Scout for off-road fun & find they are reliable so long as you aren't using huge wheels/tires or 400 hp. The bearings cost about $28 at a bearing distributor, which was cheaper than either a parts store or the axle specialist where I got my gearsets/carriers. You'll need the # off the bearings. All things considered, it might be cheaper to get a Ford 9" from a salvage yard for $100 that's a bolt-in, & get the bearings and axles for it, if you plan on some horsepower. A Dana 44 will survive a fair amount of abuse as long as you don't overuse the "stupid pedal", or use tires that will hook up instead of just spinning. Also, the stock gearing is not the greatest for our purposes, as you probably know. Good luck!

 

I hadn't considered welding & re-drilling because of a previous posting I read indicating possible inaccurate hole drilling/spacing. As to Cristopher's question I do not want 5 1/2 at the front - already have new disc conversion with 4 1/2. To Homepsun: As I stated I am working alone (and without a P/u to haul) and wanted to do it as easy as possible. The redrilling sounds reasonable but I'm still not sure if you are telling me that I have to remove the rear to press in the bearings?? If I can remove (and re-install) the shafts with the rear end in place that would be ideal - otherwise I guess you're telling me to wait till I get some help and a '57 or later rear end and change the shafts as posted earlier in this forum. More to the point - what is required to remove the axle shafts and to install them? Can they be installed with a sized piece of tubing to drive the bearings on? Appreciate your answers.

 

If you've got a Dana 44 rear right now. Cheapest and easiest solution is to get a Dana 44 out of a Jeep Cherokee. They are 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and should be the right width. (59-61") You can usually get them for $100 at the junkyard

 

Gramps,

No, you don't have to remove the housing from the truck- actually I find it easier to leave it in to remove axle shafts. Use yer manual if you have one, but basically you drain the axle, remove the drums & brake assemblies, (you can sometimes leave the assemblies in place, I just find it easier to get it out of the way), remove the four nuts through the access hole in the axle, and pull it out. They stick sometimes- you can flip the drum backwards, hold it on loosely with a couple of lugs, and use it gently as a slide hammer or a tapping surface. The bolts on the back side of the axle backing plate (that these nuts are on) may or may not have flats for a wrench; if they do, use them. Also, if you are not real familiar with drum brakes, I suggest making a drawing, or at least do one side at a time. Not demeaning your skills, it's just that I have torn down way too many drum assemblies that were not functional because they were put together wrong. (Hopefully not by me.)

The old bearings are tough to remove. You can get a bearing splitter from a rental place; instead, I often cut them off with a cutoff tool & an air compressor. It takes patience & care, other wise you will nick the axle shaft. I cut off the outer race, remove the cage assembly, & then "thin" a groove on the inner race. You can then tap it with a cold chisel & crack it. This is a trial & error process, go very slowly.

The new bearings can be put on with a piece of pipe, or even a punch (hard to drive them straight with a punch). You can try putting the bearings in the oven & the axles in the freezer for a while which helps. New axles (ala Moser or Strange) are always at the high side of tolerances & can be a booger to install bearings, hence I use a press. Most machine shops & a lot of other places have presses & will do it for you pretty cheaply; just make sure you get the retainer & bearing on in the right order for them as they won't know or care, usually. This will all be clear as soon as you get the axle out. As far as the redrill, any good machine shop can do it; bigger truck repair shops can as well. I don't find it real cost effective, but then I have been known to be hard on axle shafts.

Hope this helps!

P.S. I have had very good luck with Moser axles & recommend them.