This post is for your info—feel free to reply if you’d like.fficeffice" />>>
Here is my story…>>
1996 F150, 4X2, 4.9L inline 6 (engine code Y), standard cab, long bed, automatic, a/c, 128,000 miles. I was having a clicking / tapping exhaust noise that was only heard while giving the engine some gas pedal (couldn’t hear noise during idle—in park). Took truck to favorite local shop, they did the ol’ “tranny fluid into the intake smoke trick” and had one guy plug the tailpipe while another looked underneath toward the exhaust manifold. Lots of smoke where he was looking. They said “exhaust leak” and proceeded to dig down to the exhaust manifolds and removed them both, sent them to a machine shop to have them ground flat. After three days they put it all back together and guess what…noise still there, no change whatsoever!!! (fortunately, they told me since they didn’t fix the problem they wouldn’t charge me) So, I decided to do a little research on this forum (you guys are awesome, by the way!). Found out that the 1 inch in diameter tube that runs the length of the engine and sits to the left of the valve cover on top the engine but under the upper intake manifold could be cracked. So, I took a little hand held mirror and shoved it back behind the engine near the firewall and put a spotlight on it. After some shoving and looking I saw that the last little down tube was pretty much sheared clean off – with just a casual look at it, it looked fine, but it was definitely broke, I really had to get the mirror up underneath and look at where the down tube connected to the main tube. After looking in this forum and learning the different names for this tube, i.e. “Secondary Air Injection Tube” and “Thermactor Tube” (started by looking under “Exhaust Leak”) one of the posts listed the following website http://www.pciinc.com/ and they had what I needed. Part number 412 is the “Ford OE replacement A.I.R. manifold tube” and it comes with the 6 ferrule nuts. Also part number 187 “Ford OE replacement exhaust/air check valve” The dealer wanted $246 for the main tube, $19 for each ferrule nut (X6 of them--$114) and $162 for the check valve…Total $522. From the website above I got the parts for: Main tube $42, ferrule nuts included free, check valve $12…Total with shipping $62. FYI, the website only lists up to 1994 model year…I called the dealer and verified the part numbers for both the tube (F5TZ-9B445-B) and the valve (E7TZ-9A487-B) and they are the same for 1996 model year. After six short hours I did it my self and now my truck is quiet again! Those ferrule nuts are fun to put in—not, and damn that EGR feeder pipe that runs in between the last two upper intake manifold ports. Everything is just peachy now, but now I have check engine light (code P0135 “O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)”) that I have to deal with, reset it and it comes back!!! Fun never ends.
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