Do I need to move the axle centreline on my '48 F1 because it is about 7" lowered?

I am about to drill the holes and weld in the crush tubes for my independent front end (Mitsubishi L300 - we use them a lot in Australia) and I am contemplating were I need to position it.

When I did the same thing on my '56 I had to relocate it forward a bit to get the wheels centred in the guard openings......about an inch from memory.
Same thing is required on '35-'40 Fords.

I don't have a set of pickup guards for my F1 yet, so I can't take measurements.

Does anyone have an opinion on where I need to put the centreline of the wheels, in relation to original ??

It is going to be about 7" lower than standard.

Mark

 

I suspect that maintaining your stock wheelbase would determine the location of your axle. If this requires shimming or a slight move forward, you would still maintain the design intent. I doubt many of us here in the USA have tried any Mitsubishi IFS applications.

good luck. himmelberg

 

7" inch drop from standard is basically laying the front bumper on the ground? I'm with himmelberg, not to many Mitsubishi front ends around here. I know a friend had a jaguar front and he definitely had to make some changes to the location of the axles. It wasn't nearly a 7" inch drop though.

 

Mitsubishi front end is same sort of design/geometry as a Mustang II, except in early pickups you can bolt the factory Mitsubishi crossmember in by just drilling the mount holes and installing crush tubes......easiest coversion I've ever done

I am trying to work out where to position it to get the wheels centred.

On a lot of early vehicles when you lower them significantly the wheels are no longer centred and you need to move the whole front end (regardless of type) forward......I'm querieing if an F1 has the same situation

When you guys do Mustang II, Volare etc conversions in an F1 do you leave the wheel centreline (and therefore wheelbase) standard? I remember seeing some instructions for putting one in a '56 and it said put it 1 1/2" further forward.....but what about in an F1

IMLOWR2 - 7" is based on comparison too measusrements on the only F1 I have available to me too measure here. My bumper will be about 3 1/2" off the ground......I think....I am piecing this thing together from bit's and am yet to have it rolling with all the weight in it!

 

Moving the centerline of the axle forward on 53-56 trucks is to "center" the wheel in the opening. Ford's design simply has the wheel located about an inch/ inch and a half aft of where it is visually correct.

This has nothing to do with lowering. I would think that the wheelbase stays the same no matter how much you lower the front end. best. himmelberg

 

A lot of early Fords seem to have the same problem, and when you lower them it seems to be more obvious.....hence moving the centreline forward. I guess now I think about it lowering them doesn't make the problem worse, just makes it more visual.

I have organised to go and take measurements off of a '52 with the same front end I am running, so I will just copy his setup

 

I spoke to a friend who is knowledgable on the subject. He stated that when using this front end and lowering the vehicle as low as your going, it does appear that the center will be off. There are two options. You can center the front axle using a line attached from corner of fender to fender and finding center point. He doesn't advise it, because depending on the size of tire you will have problems with rubbing on the corner of the front fenders particularly on making hard turns. If you choose to center it, you must have a smaller tire in the front which again lowers the truck more. Therefore, you need to compensate. He recommends just leaving it at the same point where it is at. By the way 3.5" from the ground is pretty low. Don't try driving over any driveways. Would love to see pics when your done... Hope this helps.

 

Thanks. Your (and your friends) opinions help lots

I am running 15x6 tims with 185/60/15 and I have set the rims up with some inward offset to make sure I don't have guard clearance problems.

I know it's going to be low, but I always like to set up independent front ends low because it's easier to put in tall springs if it's too low than to try and lower it if it's too high.......did that make sense??

Leaf spring Rear ends are the reverse......I set them up a bit higher than I want because I can always add lowering block. There's no such thing as "raising blocks" if you set it up too low to begin with!

My '56 was setup about the same height as this one and it scraped on driveways!
I always mount the engine and box nice and high so if I scrape something it's only bumpers and such, not things that bleed oil!

Mark

 

I understand perfectly. One question. On the rear end you stated you go high and use lowering blocks. I have a 56 truck and the springs are above the rear differential. I you apply blocks to the rear it will raise the vehicle. Unless you have a flip kit (putting the rear end above the springs, the blocks are useless. Remember the flip kit will in itself lower the vehicle 5-6" in the rear. I understand the system on the front and it makes perfect sense. I'm working on lowering my truck, just don't know how to go about it. Yet. Let us know how it works.

 

First thing I always do is put the rear end over the springs....as you say it get's you 5-6" reall quick and easy. I normally make my own spring pads out of thick wall 2" x 4" which gives me another 1" compared to using original pads

Second easiest step is flatter springs with reversed eyes

On my '48 I have replaced the factory springs with Mitsubishi L300 springs (same reason as the front - availability) here in Australia. I have relocated them under the chassis so I can run wider tyres if I want. In the US you have an endless variety of sources, either aftermarket kit's or pick-a-part

Then it's time to C Notch!

If you still want lower use lowering blocks

Lower still - go with a 4 link and airbags !