Hello,

It's finally happened. I need to replace the plugs on a Ford F150, Triton 5.4L.

Does anyone have a step by step procedure for removing all the components in the way for this job? (Or a link of course)

Would any of you who have gone before consider writing one??? Pictures would be great.

This is quite a job, quite a rat's nest, quite an utter failure of design, quite an abomination!

Thanks.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ter_F150s.html

Nice article written by Racerguy in the Tech Articles section.

Make sure that you have some compressed air, 1/4'' and 3/8'' u-joints, and plenty of extensions. Also make sure that you use a torque wrench to tighten them properly!

Welcome to FTE!

 

I found the Tech article, and now I see your reply too, thanks.

(I couldn't find a search function for just this forum)

The local dealer wants 440 dollars for labor to change the spark plugs. This is pure evil IMHO.

 

I'd reccomend that you use motorcraft double plats or autolite double plats....unless you like to change plugs on this motor....

 

From the motorcraft.com web site:

VIN L or VIN N ??

I was assuming that this was the letter that the VIN began with, but
my VIN begins with 1F

Which plug do I need?
Thanks.

 

i had two replace a plug and cop on my 99 e150 5.4 and went to a respectable auto store for the parts. just by luck i checked the length of the plug i pulled and the new one was 1/2 to 3/4'' longer.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.


I wanted to get everything on the shopping list before I removed
the plugs.

But I can take the old ones out before I get the new ones if I need too.

Thanks.

This engine is such a rat's nest. We need to identify all the engineers who signed off on this engine and hound them on the internet, for the rest of time!!!

What a hoot!

 

L is the 8th digit and is for the 5.4L that is the most common and not Bi-Fuel.

 

I will tell you this if the plug is longer than the hole it does nothing for you in keeping it in the hole. However after 100,000 more miles it can strip out the threads. What happens is the extra threads on the plug collect carbon then get real hard. When you break the plug loose and back it out the carbon opens the threads in the head. Your best bet is to get them the correct length. Or better yet when you remove them turn them 1/2 turn out then spay some lube or cleaner down the hole and wait an hour then tighten them up LIGHTLY. Then turn out 1/2 turn and spary a little more wait 1/2 hour then back them out. You will not make the threads larger hopfully and you will avoid a blown plug.
This happens on aluminium heads all the time. Thats why they have helicoils.

 

What about the NGK Iridium IX Plug ??


Is this a good plug? How does this compare to
the double platinums?


Thanks.

 

The COP ignition responds better to the double platinums and they should last longer.

 

Wow, I removed number four spark plug and the electrode was burnt

down to a teeny weeny little cone.

In my case, I switched my plug order to autolite double platinums. I got what the auto parts store had in their computer.

When I compared them to the plug removed, motorcraft platinums, they were the same overall length, but the threads were almost twice as long.

In any case, I took them back, I saw some discussion about this, about how exposed threads will get clogged and perhaps make it difficult to remove in the future.

That makes sense, I guess. For me, I'd rather use the short threads, to keep that much more skin on my knuckles.

I've removed one side. And of course I begin this on saturday after everything is closed until monday.

I'm assuming motorcraft makes 'double' platinums also? Is this correct? Does this mean anything beyond brand name? Is the electrode twice as thick or anything like that?

Silly question I supose. But, I'm leaning on putting exactly what I took out back in.

Thanks.

 

Yes Motorcraft makes Double platinums. AGSF22WM is the plug number. You can also get them in a 4-pack under #405W.

 

Don't forget to use some antisieze when putting the new plugs back in.

 

Well, I actually got them in and the code stays cleared!


I learned to do the superman pose for those rear most plugs. The items posted hear were a great help. In my observations, I found that even after using an air hose to blow out the plug holes, after removing the COPs, I found dirt in the hole when installing the new plugs.

It's very difficult to get an air hose in to where you need it. A flex hose or small bent air hose would be useful perhaps. And if I did this again, I might even look at some type of pressure cleaner then air hose treatment. Just a thought.

I took my time. I haven't done back arches in some years. And patience is required.

I dropped a power streering bracket bolt into bolt heaven, and found that the dealerships turn their nose up quite abusively if you're looking for a bolt.

I still haven't found an 8mm bolt.

But other than these things, I'm amazed that it went back together as uneventfully as it did.

It's a toss up to me whether to pay for four hours or to do it yourself. Atleast I know (think) that they are not cross threaded, and they have been installed with anti-seize compound. And they were infact installed!


FWIW --- and thanks to all.