My 87 BII v6 4wd 5speed 2.9 Fuel-injected cuts out after it heats up. I have replaced the TFT module, the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, the fuel pump in the tank, both fuel filters and still can't seem to fix it. It blows smoke when it cuts out like it is really rich on fuel. It has no power and can't even get up small hills. Sometimes it will die when it starts cutting out but it always starts right back up. I am thinking it may be the O2 sensor but not sure. I read where it will have 2 of them - one on each side since it is a V6! I have researched the Bronco II forum but looks like it could be a ton of things that could lead to this. I do not want to put a bunch if money it it at all. I am actually trying to sell it but having difficulty due to this fuel thing. It has 140,000 miles. After it cools off - it runs great,
Any help would be most welcome.

 

It seems that the best 1st step in diagnosing these is to run the EEC-IV self-tests. Ken00 has posted a set of instructions in his tech info post.
The other thing I would check, with it running real rich like that, is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off of the FPR (after running the engine for a minute or so) and see if there' is gasoline in the vacuum line. Gas=bad FPR. If it seems ok, put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see what the pressure is.

 

Pull the EGR valve/solenoid. If there's alot of carbon, relace both. This solved my problem on a 85 BII with the same performance issues.

 

how hard is the Egr valve to pull on these engines
i can't seem to find mine

 

Well first off, you have an 87 and mine is and 85.
I know nothing or ever worked on an 87.
But, on an 85 the EGR is so super simple, I slapped myself.
There's a vaccum hose , and a wireset (to the sensor) connected to the EGR.
It's located at the top/front of the engine (between the belt pulleys and the air filter assembly) Four bolts fasten the EGR to the intake manifold. Just remove the bolts, pull the valve, and clean any carbon. DON'T LET THE CARBON GO INTO THE ENGINE !!. I used a small brass wire brush taped to the end of a shop-vac. I can't remember if there's a gasket to replace or not, but I think there is. Replace the gasket, mount the new EGR w/ new sensor, tighten the bolts, reconnect the vaccum hose and wireset. Easy - money !
It takes all of 20 min. at most.
Now, if you had done any engine tuning to try to correct whatever was going on, you'll probably have to backtrack all the moves you made. I know when I changed my EGR out, performance was so much better. I had to readjust all the carb moves I made ( idle speed, blah,blah)
Hope this helps you out.

 

The egr valve is at the front of the engine, attached to the drivers side of the intake. To see it you have to remove the bracket that holds the throttle cable, all of this may be hidden by a black plastic cover. To remove it is very simple, take about 5 minutes. After you take the throttle cable bracket loose remove the tube that goes from the egr valve down to the exhaust manifold, then remove bolts that attach the egr valve to the intake. To clean mine I had to remove the throttle body to get all of the carbon out of the passage for the egr valve. I was amazed how much carbon the was. To clean mine (the intake passage) I took drills bit and twisted them with my fingers, stuck a rag back into the intake and blew the loose carbon out. Also may consider the engine temp. sensor.

 

You know the best answers are sometimes found by listening instead of asking.

 

You might look at the pickup in the distributor.It's about $30 and I have replaced several of these.