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i'm replacing both of the lower control arms on the rear axle of my 1991 aerostar ext., 110,000 miles. i'm having problems with the bolt that attaches the arm to the axle housing. i got the nut off but the stubborn bolt won't come out. i tried whacking it with a big hammer and also tried turning the bolt out - it just spins. any suggestions greatly appreciated. fred
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Mar-02 AT 07:02 PM (EST)]You did not mention if it was a forward bolt or aft. Use caution with the forward left as the fuel tank is in the way. To move stuborn bolts an air hammer is about one of the most effective ways to move it. Most likely every blow with a hammer just bounces the bolt. Use an air hamer with a brass driver to save the bolt. Good Luck!
2002 F250 4X4, 6.8 V10 6spd
2005 Explorer EB 4.6
Fox Body Mustang Race car
it is the rear bolt on the passenger side. i haven't gotten to the one near the fuel tank yet but thanks for the warning. i don't have an air hammer. i could try to grind the head off the bolt and get it out somehow. i believe it is rusted fast to the bushing sleeve inside and won't come out without a fight. thanks for the reply.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Mar-02 AT 12:01 PM (EST)]I had a similar problem with a shock mount and didn't have sufficient room to try this so, I can't say for certain it will work. My idea was to use one those two piece bearing separators(pullers), that work with a hydraulic ram to press off/on bearings, sleeves, etc. They come in various sizes and are inexpensive at Harbour Freight. They should be thin enough to fit between the rubber bushing and the link mount. The center hole should be just about the right size to allow you to adjust the separator down to surround the bolt but still catch the inner metal sleeve. Put a good sized two jaw puller on the separator and see if you can press that rusty bad boy out. Liberal application of Liquid Wrench, or similar for several days beforehand would help too. Just a thought. Let us know it works.
The bolt is probably rusted to the inner sleeve of the rubber bushing. Dousing the whole shebang with a good penetrating oil, then using a hammer and drift to drive the bolt out, is the way that I'd approach this task.
I use Tri-Flow, but Kroil has a good reputation too.
Heat would not be a good idea in this case.
Lastly, I'd use a Dremel or equivalent to remove the bolt head and drive the bolt out that direction, if you can't get sufficient room to drive it out the normal way. Because you're replacing the a-arm, you don't have to worry about deforming the arm's end, and so you have more options available.
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