I did a search and saw many conflicting posts.

Is this accurate? Thnx.

 

yeah pretty much, accept when i installed my tach i used t taps to access the ignition power from the radio wires, and for the light on the tach i tapped into the power wire for the light in the ash tray, (so that i can dim the tach as well) then i looked in my haynes manual to see which wire is the negative wire on the coild pack then used a t tap for that too, then grounded the tach and the light to the chassis.

in case you're wondering what t taps are, they are the plastic things that attach to existing wires at a 90* angle (making them look like a T) and use standard flat male plugs to plug into them

 

The 4.0l apparently has a tach terminal available. I spent considerable time looking for an equivalent on my '93 3.0l and never found anything suitable. I ran a wire through the firewall -- I drilled through the clutch master cylinder block-off plate (mine is AT) for the grommet. I needed a tach signal for my remote start setup (I can now start my Aero from inside the house, to thaw the ice on the windscreen). Months later, I tapped into my new tach signal wire under the dash for the tachometer.

The location I chose was this one, slightly to the passenger side of the center of the engine bay (click on any image for larger):



Note that Ford changed the engine bay wiring harnesses over the years. In particular, the older, round-connector harness probably does not have the tach signal, because the TFI module was on the distributor back in those days.

And the 4.0l has a tach terminal wire just hanging loose from the harness, but still on the engine side of the firewall.

The Electronic Instrument Cluster (digital dash) on the later ('92-on) Aeros apparently has a tach signal too -- but also has a tach!

 

T taps are too easy to use but cause damage to wiring and a nightmare of intermittents from wire cutting and corrosion. they are not sealed, just a mechanical connection cutting into the other wire.

i would never use one on something critical like brake or tail lights.
cut the wire and solder the three together for something permanent like a tach. use heat shrink to seal from moisture and insulate.

first check your tach and make sure it is compatible with the type of Ford ign. you have older 3L dist. is different than later 3L and the 4L with EDIS
most tach manufacturers have a site with compatibility lookup

check the fuse block above the left kick panel under the dash for a ign key switched connection. there are a couple that take a push in spade

nice pics, asavage, new camera for Christmas?
good flash work

 

I've gone through a pile of digital cameras since the first one in 1997 (Ricoh RDS-5000, $750). Current one is over a year old, from Costco, Olympus SP-350, $200. It is far from perfect, and I am looking for its replacement already, but it's pretty good for a $200 camera. Macro mode won't focus (defective), and Super Macro won't flash (WAD). Color balance is unusually good for a camera in this class though. I am a lousy photographer, but if you take enough of them, you're bound to get better. I take pics of everything these days; you never know when you'll want a pic of something later. Problem is organization.

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I use tee-taps for anything inside the car, but if it's outside it gets soldered. Solderless connectors and tee-taps are nothing but trouble if exposed to weather here in the Great Pacific NorthWet.

 

If you don't mind me asking what tach are you using? just curious.





Kaboom10 2002 5.4L 4wd F-150 w/33k/miles<O</O

K&N replacement filter w/modified air box<O</O

EBC brakes all around

<O>http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/kaboom10/100_0165.jpg</O>

 

I am considering
http://sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16474

 

Got my tach installed today.

I managed to trace the tach wire from the RemoteStart.


Thanks for all the responses.