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1994 Ranger will not start when hot!!

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  #1  
Old 09-03-2004, 12:47 PM
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1994 Ranger will not start when hot!!

I have a 1994 ranger with about 170,000 miles. It has the 4.0L six and a manual transmission. Recently the check engine light came on and it will lope and hesitate a bit, but eventually it clears up. However, once it gets hot and you turn it off it will not start. I have replaced the starter ground cable and ignition switches, the solenoid and fuel pump relay.

I ran the codes on it and get the following codes: 113, 116, 118, 121, 123, 137, 173, 341, 411, 412 and 522

Most of these codes point to the ACT, ECT and TPS sensors. Are these things you can buy, or is this just a bigger problem. Is this an EGR thing, do I need to clean or get a MAF sensor?

A neighbor told me I may want to check the coolant temperature sensor, then the guy at the auto parts store said a crank positioning sensor. Neither worked.

I checked and it seems like when it is hot, it is not getting spark, so do I need some computer or relay? NOTE: My method for checking spark is jamming a screwdriver in plug wire one and arcing across something, so it may not be accurate. I have a $10.00 solution that involves 5 gallons of gasoline and a match, but I would prefer not to resort to that....

I looked over the DTC codes posted here and the throttle position sensor and intake air sensors came up. Could they cause the problem?

I guess it could be the DTC module too. I don't mind getting that, but if that is not the problem I don't want to dump heavy cash on it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks...Mike
 

Last edited by hhcibtpaun; 09-03-2004 at 12:50 PM.
  #2  
Old 09-03-2004, 01:11 PM
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Welcome to FTE!

You need to address the KOEO codes first. Do you recall which were KOEO codes? BTW, unless you have a 4.0 Ranger that was sold to a californian new, it doesn't have an EGR. IT would also be nice to have a service manual with the flow charts for addressing the codes; sometimes one code and the item causing it can throw off codes for other items that are not failed.
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:36 PM
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Let me hook up the computer and get the KOEO codes again. Maybe I will see if I can pick up the Service manual.


thanks...Mike
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:49 PM
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Make sure there are flow charts and pinpoint diagnostics in the manual.

BTW, items must be repaired in the following order: KOEO, KOER, and finally CM.
 

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 09-03-2004 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 09-03-2004, 03:04 PM
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Thanks for the tip. The KOEO codes are:

118, 123, 113, 522, and 341 in that order. I ran the codes when it was cool, then again when it was hot. The same result.

I checked the codes against the list posted on this site, and it looks like 118, 123 and 113 all have a common entry --- Damage to PCM. I couldn't find 522 or 341. Whatdoes PCM stand for? Is this where all the plug wires plug in, or is it something else?

Thanks...Mike
 

Last edited by hhcibtpaun; 09-03-2004 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:20 PM
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The PCM is the computer that runs most everything.

113=IAT

118=ECT

123=TPS

These all have the same reference wiring, check out the wiring to these sensers.

341=Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)

522=Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:31 PM
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According to my book for EEC-IV systems (like yours).................

118 = engine temperature sensor above maximum voltage/0 to -40 degrees F indicated
123 = throttle position sensor above maximum voltage
113 = Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40 degrees F indicated
522 = Vehicle not in park or neutral during KOEO
341 = (Cars only) Octane adjust service pin open. BTW, this is a KOER code.

The test should be done with the engine at normal operating temperature. Have you got a manual with flowcharts? It would be beneficial. Have you inspected the connectors on these components for damage, etc?

On edit: Ken, you type faster than me, LOL. I'm thinking a wiring problem or maybe a bad ground.
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:38 PM
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LOL, I typed faster and did an edit too.

Take it easy Bill.
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:58 PM
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Wow, thanks for all of your help. I will check the connectors to see if I can see anty damage. I have a Haynes manual that has some wiring diagrams, not sure if there are flowcharts. Nevertheless, maybe I can make some headway tomorrow.


Thanks...Mike
 
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:09 PM
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My 79' did this and it was the coil. Did you check that.
 
  #11  
Old 09-04-2004, 12:36 AM
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You should like this; I almost forgot. Alldata.com has a sample of their offerings and it just so happens to include a 93 Ranger 4.0 (should be same as the 94). The flowcharts, pinpoint tests, etc etc are all there . http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...53741/34857029 Once you look around in there, you will understand the need/benefit of these charts. I doubt you will need the wiring diagrams in the Haynes to solve your issue(s).
 
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:24 AM
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Are these the flowcharts you are talking about?

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...71598/72708475

Or are these wiring diagrams? They look like wiring diagrams.

Thanks....Mike
 
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:05 PM
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Nope, that's not the flowcharts. Let's try one for the TPS

On the main URL for the Ranger: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...53741/34857029

Choose "Computers and Control Systems": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57029/34857030

Choose "Throttle Position Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57030/34857616

Then choose "Testing and Inspection": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57616/34857622

In there, at the bottom of the page you will see "Pinpoint testing procedures for this component are located in the system level Testing and Inspection TOC. See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor". Choose "See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...6396/104742339

In there is good reading; for an example of a flowchart, look at : "DH3 - Service Code 53/123: Attempt to Generate Code 63/122" and click on it: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...2339/104742421 Start the repair process by beginning at the top of the list. Familiarize yourself, even though you may not use the info. For example, there is a schematic of the TPS showing nothing more than pin numbers. You may need to know that as you work your way down the list. Some steps may not apply; skip them.

You will see a series of items to look at, and in the end there is a yes/no condition for you to answer. Your answer determines the next step. Chances are, in this example your answer will be "no"; you will back up on your web browser and look down the list until your find DH5 ("DH5 - Check TP Circuit For Shorts to Power") and click on it. Repeat. Some of the schematics will be helpful in locating pins, ground points, etc.
 
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:44 PM
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Bill,

Thanks for the detailed post. It looks like I have some fun ahead. I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks....Mike
 
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Old 10-25-2004, 07:48 PM
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OK, here it is a month later and still no progress. I was waiting for my multimeter to come in the mail and now I have it. I printed out all of the diagnostic flowcharts and was all set until I saw perform the EEC-IV quick test....... Not sure what that is, is it something done with a computer. I have an OTC monitor.

Nevertheless, I moved on to check spark and all is well there. Next I see I need to install the EDIS cable to a breakout box. Is the EDIS cable the cable that attaches up to the Rad support area? What is the breakout box? Is this some computer or thing I should have.

Basically all I have is a multimeter and an OTC monitor. Can I successfully step through the flowcharts. For now I have resorted to getting my truck hot, then taking parts off to cool and put back on. That and spraying everything with silicone spray.

I am ready to send it down the road to my mechanic, unless I can figure out what the breakout box is, and wheter or not I can work around one.

Thanks...Mike
 
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