1994 Ranger will not start when hot!!
#1
1994 Ranger will not start when hot!!
I have a 1994 ranger with about 170,000 miles. It has the 4.0L six and a manual transmission. Recently the check engine light came on and it will lope and hesitate a bit, but eventually it clears up. However, once it gets hot and you turn it off it will not start. I have replaced the starter ground cable and ignition switches, the solenoid and fuel pump relay.
I ran the codes on it and get the following codes: 113, 116, 118, 121, 123, 137, 173, 341, 411, 412 and 522
Most of these codes point to the ACT, ECT and TPS sensors. Are these things you can buy, or is this just a bigger problem. Is this an EGR thing, do I need to clean or get a MAF sensor?
A neighbor told me I may want to check the coolant temperature sensor, then the guy at the auto parts store said a crank positioning sensor. Neither worked.
I checked and it seems like when it is hot, it is not getting spark, so do I need some computer or relay? NOTE: My method for checking spark is jamming a screwdriver in plug wire one and arcing across something, so it may not be accurate. I have a $10.00 solution that involves 5 gallons of gasoline and a match, but I would prefer not to resort to that....
I looked over the DTC codes posted here and the throttle position sensor and intake air sensors came up. Could they cause the problem?
I guess it could be the DTC module too. I don't mind getting that, but if that is not the problem I don't want to dump heavy cash on it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks...Mike
I ran the codes on it and get the following codes: 113, 116, 118, 121, 123, 137, 173, 341, 411, 412 and 522
Most of these codes point to the ACT, ECT and TPS sensors. Are these things you can buy, or is this just a bigger problem. Is this an EGR thing, do I need to clean or get a MAF sensor?
A neighbor told me I may want to check the coolant temperature sensor, then the guy at the auto parts store said a crank positioning sensor. Neither worked.
I checked and it seems like when it is hot, it is not getting spark, so do I need some computer or relay? NOTE: My method for checking spark is jamming a screwdriver in plug wire one and arcing across something, so it may not be accurate. I have a $10.00 solution that involves 5 gallons of gasoline and a match, but I would prefer not to resort to that....
I looked over the DTC codes posted here and the throttle position sensor and intake air sensors came up. Could they cause the problem?
I guess it could be the DTC module too. I don't mind getting that, but if that is not the problem I don't want to dump heavy cash on it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks...Mike
Last edited by hhcibtpaun; 09-03-2004 at 12:50 PM.
#2
Welcome to FTE!
You need to address the KOEO codes first. Do you recall which were KOEO codes? BTW, unless you have a 4.0 Ranger that was sold to a californian new, it doesn't have an EGR. IT would also be nice to have a service manual with the flow charts for addressing the codes; sometimes one code and the item causing it can throw off codes for other items that are not failed.
You need to address the KOEO codes first. Do you recall which were KOEO codes? BTW, unless you have a 4.0 Ranger that was sold to a californian new, it doesn't have an EGR. IT would also be nice to have a service manual with the flow charts for addressing the codes; sometimes one code and the item causing it can throw off codes for other items that are not failed.
#4
#5
Thanks for the tip. The KOEO codes are:
118, 123, 113, 522, and 341 in that order. I ran the codes when it was cool, then again when it was hot. The same result.
I checked the codes against the list posted on this site, and it looks like 118, 123 and 113 all have a common entry --- Damage to PCM. I couldn't find 522 or 341. Whatdoes PCM stand for? Is this where all the plug wires plug in, or is it something else?
Thanks...Mike
118, 123, 113, 522, and 341 in that order. I ran the codes when it was cool, then again when it was hot. The same result.
I checked the codes against the list posted on this site, and it looks like 118, 123 and 113 all have a common entry --- Damage to PCM. I couldn't find 522 or 341. Whatdoes PCM stand for? Is this where all the plug wires plug in, or is it something else?
Thanks...Mike
Last edited by hhcibtpaun; 09-03-2004 at 03:12 PM.
#6
The PCM is the computer that runs most everything.
113=IAT
118=ECT
123=TPS
These all have the same reference wiring, check out the wiring to these sensers.
341=Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
522=Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
113=IAT
118=ECT
123=TPS
These all have the same reference wiring, check out the wiring to these sensers.
341=Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
522=Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
#7
According to my book for EEC-IV systems (like yours).................
118 = engine temperature sensor above maximum voltage/0 to -40 degrees F indicated
123 = throttle position sensor above maximum voltage
113 = Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40 degrees F indicated
522 = Vehicle not in park or neutral during KOEO
341 = (Cars only) Octane adjust service pin open. BTW, this is a KOER code.
The test should be done with the engine at normal operating temperature. Have you got a manual with flowcharts? It would be beneficial. Have you inspected the connectors on these components for damage, etc?
On edit: Ken, you type faster than me, LOL. I'm thinking a wiring problem or maybe a bad ground.
118 = engine temperature sensor above maximum voltage/0 to -40 degrees F indicated
123 = throttle position sensor above maximum voltage
113 = Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40 degrees F indicated
522 = Vehicle not in park or neutral during KOEO
341 = (Cars only) Octane adjust service pin open. BTW, this is a KOER code.
The test should be done with the engine at normal operating temperature. Have you got a manual with flowcharts? It would be beneficial. Have you inspected the connectors on these components for damage, etc?
On edit: Ken, you type faster than me, LOL. I'm thinking a wiring problem or maybe a bad ground.
Trending Topics
#9
#11
You should like this; I almost forgot. Alldata.com has a sample of their offerings and it just so happens to include a 93 Ranger 4.0 (should be same as the 94). The flowcharts, pinpoint tests, etc etc are all there . http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...53741/34857029 Once you look around in there, you will understand the need/benefit of these charts. I doubt you will need the wiring diagrams in the Haynes to solve your issue(s).
#12
Are these the flowcharts you are talking about?
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...71598/72708475
Or are these wiring diagrams? They look like wiring diagrams.
Thanks....Mike
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...71598/72708475
Or are these wiring diagrams? They look like wiring diagrams.
Thanks....Mike
#13
Nope, that's not the flowcharts. Let's try one for the TPS
On the main URL for the Ranger: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...53741/34857029
Choose "Computers and Control Systems": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57029/34857030
Choose "Throttle Position Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57030/34857616
Then choose "Testing and Inspection": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57616/34857622
In there, at the bottom of the page you will see "Pinpoint testing procedures for this component are located in the system level Testing and Inspection TOC. See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor". Choose "See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...6396/104742339
In there is good reading; for an example of a flowchart, look at : "DH3 - Service Code 53/123: Attempt to Generate Code 63/122" and click on it: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...2339/104742421 Start the repair process by beginning at the top of the list. Familiarize yourself, even though you may not use the info. For example, there is a schematic of the TPS showing nothing more than pin numbers. You may need to know that as you work your way down the list. Some steps may not apply; skip them.
You will see a series of items to look at, and in the end there is a yes/no condition for you to answer. Your answer determines the next step. Chances are, in this example your answer will be "no"; you will back up on your web browser and look down the list until your find DH5 ("DH5 - Check TP Circuit For Shorts to Power") and click on it. Repeat. Some of the schematics will be helpful in locating pins, ground points, etc.
On the main URL for the Ranger: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...53741/34857029
Choose "Computers and Control Systems": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57029/34857030
Choose "Throttle Position Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57030/34857616
Then choose "Testing and Inspection": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...57616/34857622
In there, at the bottom of the page you will see "Pinpoint testing procedures for this component are located in the system level Testing and Inspection TOC. See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor". Choose "See: Testing and Inspection\Procedures\Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts (Pinpoint Tests/No Start)\DH - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor": http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...6396/104742339
In there is good reading; for an example of a flowchart, look at : "DH3 - Service Code 53/123: Attempt to Generate Code 63/122" and click on it: http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...2339/104742421 Start the repair process by beginning at the top of the list. Familiarize yourself, even though you may not use the info. For example, there is a schematic of the TPS showing nothing more than pin numbers. You may need to know that as you work your way down the list. Some steps may not apply; skip them.
You will see a series of items to look at, and in the end there is a yes/no condition for you to answer. Your answer determines the next step. Chances are, in this example your answer will be "no"; you will back up on your web browser and look down the list until your find DH5 ("DH5 - Check TP Circuit For Shorts to Power") and click on it. Repeat. Some of the schematics will be helpful in locating pins, ground points, etc.
#15
OK, here it is a month later and still no progress. I was waiting for my multimeter to come in the mail and now I have it. I printed out all of the diagnostic flowcharts and was all set until I saw perform the EEC-IV quick test....... Not sure what that is, is it something done with a computer. I have an OTC monitor.
Nevertheless, I moved on to check spark and all is well there. Next I see I need to install the EDIS cable to a breakout box. Is the EDIS cable the cable that attaches up to the Rad support area? What is the breakout box? Is this some computer or thing I should have.
Basically all I have is a multimeter and an OTC monitor. Can I successfully step through the flowcharts. For now I have resorted to getting my truck hot, then taking parts off to cool and put back on. That and spraying everything with silicone spray.
I am ready to send it down the road to my mechanic, unless I can figure out what the breakout box is, and wheter or not I can work around one.
Thanks...Mike
Nevertheless, I moved on to check spark and all is well there. Next I see I need to install the EDIS cable to a breakout box. Is the EDIS cable the cable that attaches up to the Rad support area? What is the breakout box? Is this some computer or thing I should have.
Basically all I have is a multimeter and an OTC monitor. Can I successfully step through the flowcharts. For now I have resorted to getting my truck hot, then taking parts off to cool and put back on. That and spraying everything with silicone spray.
I am ready to send it down the road to my mechanic, unless I can figure out what the breakout box is, and wheter or not I can work around one.
Thanks...Mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AGrayson84
1997-2006 Expedition & Navigator
4
11-01-2016 09:35 AM
n.c.-deerhunter
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
9
01-28-2012 11:23 AM
greystreak92
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
3
03-06-2011 11:16 AM
rocky3539
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
04-20-2007 03:52 PM
sbelini
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
2
07-27-2004 09:45 PM