Looking to wire up a homemade Idle controller on 2002 PSD!

bjjf350d · #1 (**permalink**) 09-01-2004, 03:00 PM

I have been researching the topic of Do it yourself Idle controllers and have only been able to find a description for PSD years 94 - 97. Will this same setup work on my 02 F350 PSD? I live in PA and was wondering what temp to hold the Idle at to prevent wet stacking? Currently with and outside temp of around 80F my PSD will Idle at 275F pre turbo, in the winter I am sure it would be lower. My truck will idle up in the cold on its own but not sure if this is sufficient enough.

mueckster · #2 (**permalink**) 09-01-2004, 10:16 PM

The instructions should be the same for the '99-up trucks as well. The instructions I used were not year model specific, so there could only be a difference in the wire color codes. I don't what color your instructions show, but the color codes I have matched my '01. The colors are red w/ yellow stripe, red w/ green stripe, gray w/ white stripe, and brown w/ white stripe. If your instructions differ, I would be glad to help you. LOL

bjjf350d · #3 (**permalink**) 09-02-2004, 07:40 AM

Thanks for the info, The wire colors do match the description you gave. I will be hooking it up this weekend. Just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be any problems with using the instructions I have. Thanks Again.

cookie88 · #4 (**permalink**) 09-02-2004, 09:12 AM

Here is the text of the post I used to build mine way back when:

"Get a 5k ohm linear potentiomer with integrated switch form MOUSER part # 31VM305 for $1.72 Also get 5 3M connectors part # 517-560 for 12 cents each.

Get one each of the following 1/4 watt (1/2 watt will do) resistors from either Mouser or radio shack: 2.7k, 3.3k, 3.9k, and 4.7k ohm. You will only use one of these, but you will have to pick the one you like best.

Take your "go" pedal out of the truck. It takes one or two screws and it unplugs.

Get some 16 or 18 gauge stranded wire to hook everything up.

Using the 3M tap connectors, parallel the switch on the pot to the red wire with yellow stripe and the red wire with green stripe. It doesn't matter which terminal on the switch goes to which wire. It's only a switch. By the way, this is called the TVS, throttle validation switch.

Now, using the 3M connectors again, tap into the grey wire with the white stripe and hook it to the center connector of the potentiomer.

With another 3M connector, hook the brown wire with a white stripe to one end of a resistor. Hook the other end of the resistor to the left side of the potentiomer, looking from the shaft side. This is called the TPS Throttle Position Sensor.

By the way, all of these connections are done ABOVE the "go" pedal connector, not on the pedal. I guess you could, but then you can never remove the pedal again.

Put the pedal back in. That's it.

Now here are the gotchas... I wired all of this up in the floorboard using alligator clips so I could try it out before I made it permanent. You may have to try several different values of resistor to get the idle speed up as high as you would like it. A smaller value will make it idle faster.

If you hook the resistor to the wrong side of the pot, when you switch it on, you will go into fast idle, and it will come down as you rotate the pot clockwise. You want it to switch onto low idle and increase as you turn it up, so you should be connected on the left side of the pot as you face the knob.

This control mounts nicely in a 1/4 inch hole on the blank panel just below and to the right of the steering column, just above the fuse panel door. Get a nice knob from mouser and it will look factory.

I hope this helps because I just can't explain it any more clearly.

Good luck."

Those are instructions for a 2002, but the wire colors matched up on my 01.

bjjf350d · #5 (**permalink**) 09-02-2004, 12:14 PM

Thanks so much for the information provided. These are clear instructions, I should have no trouble this weekend.

mueckster · #6 (**permalink**) 09-03-2004, 06:39 AM

The text that Cookie gave you is the same one I used. I got all the parts needed at Radio Shack. If purchased there, you will have to buy the the switch separately and attach it to the potentiometer (no big deal). I used the 3.9k resistor, which limits the rpms to a little over 2000. I didn't have to remove the pedal assembly. There was enough room to wire everything into the harness above the TPS. Have a good one!

cookie88 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-03-2004, 10:15 AM

I was going to mention that earlier, but forgot. I did not remove the pedal either. I used the 4.7 resistor, put's the idle to about 1200-1400 rpm.

bjjf350d · #8 (**permalink**) 09-03-2004, 10:45 AM

Thanks, I got all of the parts that were mentioned so I should be all set to wire it up on Saturday.

cookie88 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-03-2004, 11:02 AM

Cool. Once you get under there and see where everything is it won't take more than 15-20 minutes to get it going. Not counting waiting for the soldering iron to heat up and picking a suitable spot to drill a hole in the dash.

redbull660 · #10 (**permalink**) 09-05-2004, 06:44 PM

I have a ford factory idle control that I will sell for $150.00 its on my 2001 powerstroke. It works fine I just dont ever use it.

cookie88 · #11 (**permalink**) 09-05-2004, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redbull660

I have a ford factory idle control that I will sell for $150.00 its on my 2001 powerstroke. It works fine I just dont ever use it.

List it in the for sale section of the site. click here

bjjf350d · #12 (**permalink**) 09-07-2004, 12:19 PM

Thanks for the help guys but I still have one problem! The AIC works correctly when the switch is turned off and the pot is turned all the way down before starting the truck, once the truck has been running I can turn on the switch and adjust the idle accordingly. However if i flip the switch back off and then on again while the truck is running I have to repeat the whole process mentioned above. Any additional help would be appreciated. I ended up using the 4.7K res and believe everything is wired correctly. Not sure what could be going on.

7.3_powerstroke_7.3 · #13 (**permalink**) 12-05-2008, 12:14 PM

Anybody Tried this yet ???

How to activate the High idle function on a 2004 Powerstroke.

This will increase the engine idle speed to 1200rpm as long as the transmission is in Park or Neutral and your foot is not on the brake pedal.

This info is valid for 2004 Powerstrokes with the automatic transmission. I'm not sure if the manual transmission PCM's have the PTO idle up function software installed.

This procedure connects two body harness wires together with a switch. When the switch is activated battery power from one wire is sent to the PTO control wire telling the PCM to raise the idle speed to 1200rpm.

Here is what you do.

Look up under the dash between the steering column and the parking brake pedal. You will find a wiring harness behind the parking brake handle with a bunch of wires coming out of the harness that have the ends sealed off with charcoal?? colored heat shrink tubing.

If your not sure what you are looking at, look at the three wiring harnesses that come through the firewall to the left of the steering column shaft into the passenger compartment. The top harness is big, the middle harness is smaller than the top harness and the last harness closest to the floor is smaller still. The wire you are looking for comes out of the the middle harness where the harness routes up to the dash directly behind the parking brake handle.

One of these wires will be Light Blue with a Yellow stripe. This is the PTO function wire from the PCM. Placing battery power (battery positive) on this wire will command the PCM to raise the idle speed to 1200rpm as long as the transmission is in Park or Neutral and the service brake is released, meaning your foot is not on the brake pedal and the brake lights are not activated.

The other wire you are looking for is a White wire with a Light Blue stripe. This one is also easy to find. While looking under the dash direct your attention to the black OBD II datalink connector mounted to the lower part of the dash to the right of the steering column. This connector is what a service tech uses to hook up a scan tool which is needed to communicate with the vehicle PCM in order to check engine sensor data, engine trouble codes and to REFLASH your PCM.

Anyway, look at this black connector and follow the wiring harness from the plug back up and inside the dash. Along the harness not too far up from the plug you will find the White wire with a Light Blue stripe included in the bundle of wires but the wire just stops short of the connector. Yes the wire does not plug into any one of the ports of the datalink connector.

This White wire with a Light Blue stipe is your positive battery source wire that you will connect to the Light Blue with a Yellow stripe PTO wire through a switch.

Purchase some wire, a switch that has a illuminating paddle switch lever and some female crimp connectors and some butt connectors.

Use the wire and butt connectors to extend these vehicle wires so you can mount the switch under the dash to the right of the OBD II datalink connector. Crimp the female crimp connectors on the end of each wire so the wires could plug into the male terminals of the switch.

So far you have used two wires connected to the switch. The illuminating paddle switch has three terminals. The last terminal is a ground connection that is used so that when the switch is turned on the switch paddle illuminates.

it look easier then making a aux. idle control from but i tried it and it wouldnt work

lol