10.25" Limited Slip Rebuild Kit
#1
10.25" Limited Slip Rebuild Kit
Where can I get a kit to rebuild my limited slip unit in my 10.25" rear axle? What tools are needed to do the job? I've heard of the units being rebuilt with an extra 2 clutches for better holding power. Who makes some good kits? What are kits I should avoid? Are there any good internet links anyone can attach that discuss a limited slip rebuild? Thanks
#3
#4
#5
okay, well my truck was built in 1986, and the limited slip lasted me up until last winter. 17 years of service isn't too bad. granted the truck is not my daily driver. the stock unit served its purpose for plowing. if the truck was lifted, had 40 inch tires and saw serious duty off road, perhaps I'd be inclined to agree with your "wortheless pile of spew" comment. But for my purposes, it does what I need it to. $50 doesn't get me a re-build on the stock unit, it gets me new clutches which I hope to install myself once I determine exactly what is involved and whether or not I need expensive, specialized tools to do it.
So with that said....does anyone know where I can get info on putting in new clutches?
So with that said....does anyone know where I can get info on putting in new clutches?
#6
I would not recommend putting extra clutches or shims in your old unit.
Unless your going to replace the spyder gears and side bearings .
Just go with the stock setup.
The only special tool you will need is the one needed to measure the clutch pack thickness.
Most guys just put the recommended number of clutches and shims that they take out,back in ! If your going to rebuild your rear diff totally ,new gears and bearings then you will need to setup clutch thickness ,because when changing carrier bearings you change the dimensions with in
Find a shop manual or search online on a traction- lok rebuild ,same as a 8.8 diff
Rich
Unless your going to replace the spyder gears and side bearings .
Just go with the stock setup.
The only special tool you will need is the one needed to measure the clutch pack thickness.
Most guys just put the recommended number of clutches and shims that they take out,back in ! If your going to rebuild your rear diff totally ,new gears and bearings then you will need to setup clutch thickness ,because when changing carrier bearings you change the dimensions with in
Find a shop manual or search online on a traction- lok rebuild ,same as a 8.8 diff
Rich
#7
well, if it is indeed just like an 8.8 tlok, there a few other ways.... no disrecpect fortyfords.
when i did my last 8.8, i took two of the worn clutches, plus all the new clutches, and ditched two of the shim/steels in the stock unit.... you can do a search on the corral (corral.net) for "alternate stacking" or something like that.
as for the thickness, again, if it indeed just like an 8.8, you WILL NOT be able to rotate the spider gears back into the housing IF they are too thick. you gotta put a thinner spacer in and try again.... if it still will not rotate in with the thinnest, you need to find a more used clutch disc.....once it is all together, it will be as close to a locker as possible with a clutch type, NOTHING like an oem clutch diff!!!!
ohh, soak the clutches for two to three days in friction modifier (the new clutches that is) and when you get it all together, dont put any in the fluid
it will bang and pop for the first 5-10 turns, but will quiet down and work great afterward.
when i did my last 8.8, i took two of the worn clutches, plus all the new clutches, and ditched two of the shim/steels in the stock unit.... you can do a search on the corral (corral.net) for "alternate stacking" or something like that.
as for the thickness, again, if it indeed just like an 8.8, you WILL NOT be able to rotate the spider gears back into the housing IF they are too thick. you gotta put a thinner spacer in and try again.... if it still will not rotate in with the thinnest, you need to find a more used clutch disc.....once it is all together, it will be as close to a locker as possible with a clutch type, NOTHING like an oem clutch diff!!!!
ohh, soak the clutches for two to three days in friction modifier (the new clutches that is) and when you get it all together, dont put any in the fluid
it will bang and pop for the first 5-10 turns, but will quiet down and work great afterward.
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#8
thanks matt. i actually belong to the corral already and just did a rebuild on my 91 mustang 8.8, but i used 8 clutches instead of the stock 6, not the alternative stacking they mention. The 10.25 diff looks very similar, just a lot bigger, but doesnt have the center "S" clip and there are 2 small clips on each side of the carrier that appear to retain the clutches or something. I'm not really too sure how it works. I guess getting a shop manual is my best bet. i can't find any articles on the net. I want something with lots of pics.
#9
Originally Posted by cwb
$50 will get you a re-build on the stock unit? That sounds good. Other than the fact that it's worthless pile of poo-poo, if it works for you then I would say 50 is a good deal.
As a side note ford LS units do not work in the snow or ice and neither do most LS's. Get a locker for snow to go..
Lockright, no slip, Detroit...air$$$..
Dick
#11
#12
Everybody is an expert on this issue..I have the detroit and love it it works great in the snow and all around...I can plow in 2WD most of the time and of course there's 4WD I have a locker in the front also...No problems at all but then I do know how to drive...
Price for the no slip is usually close to $600.00
Price for the no slip is usually close to $600.00
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