Hi Guys,
I'm new to this forum but not new to this website. I just found a boneyard here in Las Vegas that is going to get crushed in 3 or 4 weeks. They have an early 50s Ford pickup that appears to be complete including the original (or replacement) flat hesd V8 that they say runs. There is no visible rot in the usual places just a bit of surface rust where the paint is worn away. It seems to have been a lifelong resident of Las Vegas. I don't remember what year the body style changed but it has a one piece grill (like on the 55 and 56) with several "teeth" along the bottom of it but still has the same fender style as a 49/50. What is this worth? They want $1500 but I think they will take a bit less especially as the crusher day draws nearer. Is a flat head worth dealing with? I have no experience with them. Do they cost a bundle to keep running? Are they fun? Please reply as time is of the essence. It seems to be a bargain as it is solid and I am looking for my next project as my 68 Mustang is nearing completion.
Thanks In Advance,
Gene (68horses)

 

Hi Gene

That sounds like a bargain to me

Flatheads are cool from a nostalgia point of view, parts are readily available from specialist suppliers, a little more expensive and less powerful than modern motors. It depends what you want from your truck.

Stephen

 

Gene, go to the Gallery and bring up 53's, sound like what you're looking at. You can't find rust free in my neck of the woods and $1500 would be a bargain here. Places to check for rust on the F-100's are, Roof,around the front windshield and drip channels, front and back lower corners, inner and outer door panels near the bottom and floorboards all over. As to the flathead, a runner is a treasure. Over the years they have become expensive to overhaul. That said I'd consider keeping it cause it's what Henry put there. Nothing sounds quite as nice as a flathead through a set of glass packs.

Welcome to the fourm and welcome to the 50's



What do you do when your done?
Don

 

hey gene, when u say several teeth do u mean 3 or many either side of a centre V? sounds like a good starting point regardless of year, how about a pic or two.
cya..gary

 

If the grill looks like the one in my gallery. You are looking at a 53 Deluxe grill. Which bolts fairly easily to any 53-56 model so it's not a guarantee of truck vintage. Total of six grill teeth. Otherwise a 53 grill is very similar to a 56 grill at first glance.

 

From looking in the galleries I've determined that it's a 51 or 52, I can't really tell any difference (it must be subtle). I hope to be able to view the truck in more detail next Saturday as the older ladies that are liquidating their late dad's treasures are only there one day a week. I did not check it out closely as I was busy making a deal on the back half of a 68 Mustang to make into a trailer and had limited time before work. When I look more closely, how do identify the motor? Is there such a thing as matching numbers on fenders, VIN plate, engine etc.? The left front wheel is leaned in pretty well at the top (I'm guessing bent spindle or axle). Can I assume that an axle and or spindles are easily available for a reasonable price? Also, are brake parts, steering parts and other safety/driveability parts readily available for this kind of truck? I assume it is a half ton (F1?) as it has 5 lug wheels. Any and all replies, comments, tips and advice are welcomed.
Thank You,
Gene

 

Easiest and quickest way to determine between 51 'n 52 is the panel between the hood and the grill. 48-50, 52 have the letters F O R D across this panel. '51 does not and instead has the word Ford incorporated into the cast nose piece of the hood.

5 lug wheels would be F1. Vin would be on the data plate on the firewall near the solenoid, (passenger side) or on the rating plate on the inside of the glovebox door and would read something like: 98RC 123456 if an early 51, F1R1DI 123456 if a late 51 and F1R2DI 123456 if its a 52.

Not much in the way of matching numbers - only frame and vin plates noted above. Engine has no number. If it is a 24 bolt head with water outlets at the front of the head, it belongs with the truck. 48-53 flathead V8's are all the same for all practical purposes.

Parts are easy to come by, especially F1's. Most parts are still available thru good parts stores like NAPA. Sounds like a great deal. Keep the flathead - anybody can have a modern engine.

 

Will the VIN tel me the original color of the truck or do I have to be a detective? Also, how do I post pictures?
Thanks,
Gene

 

If it's an early 51 it's not coded on the rating plate.
If it's a late 51 (produced after 9/15/51) the color should be coded on the rating plate where you find the vin.

Look closely under the dash, behind kick panels, etc for the original color. Then allow for fading and oxidizing..........

 

68horses, go to the top of the this page and click on 'USER CP' and then click on Edit Gallery, and post your pictures in a gallery in your name.

 

Hi Guys,
I went by the junkyard today (not open but could see the truck through the fence) and found that I was mistaken about the 5-lug wheels, they are 8-lug. I really don't want to deal with 8-bolt rims and the stiffness of a 3/4 or 1-ton truck (been ther done that with a 55 ford). My question is are there more differences than just the suspension and axles from a 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton? I assume a heavier duty transmission, but is there anything else? Is it worth converting a 3/4 ton to a half ton. The body is completely rust free.
Thanks a lot,
Gene

 

Going from a ton to a half ton is quite easy. The front spindles are the same so you can use an F-1 disc brake kit. You can easily bolt a 57-72 truck 9" in the rear but you probally want to get rid of the heavy springs. F-1 spring will bolt on in the front but the rear is a little trickier. The F-2/F-3 springs are 1" longer and 1/4" wider than stock F-1 springs. On my M-3 I removed all the spring hangers and bolted the ones of my F-1 on it. I made a template from the F-1 frame and drilled new holes for the spring hangers. Also the F-1 rear shock mounts are a bolt in.

 

Don't let the fact that it is a 3/4 or 1 ton scare you away! A rust free body is the most important thing. You can remove a few leaves from the springs if you want a softer ride. If you can save it from the crusher, please do. You can always get your money out of it. ...Terry

 

Sounds like a deal to me. I have bought 2 trucks in the last 2 years for parts for my project 49, the least I paid was $1500 and that was for a ragged out (bed was good and that why I bought it) old '52 hot rod pu. As far as the suspension, you can still get parts fairly easily. I totally rebuilt the front suspension of my '49 (kingpins and all) and upgraded to disc brakes with a nice conversion kit.