I want to install an oil by-pass filter on my F-150, 5.4L engine. I plan on using the OILGUARD SYSTEM .

Can anyone tell me where "on the engine" to connect the two hoses that go to/from the "by-pass" filter ?? Pictures would be great if anyone has them.

Thanks.

 

the easiest way is to use a sandwich adapter under your full flow filter. I am using a Perma-Cool adapter as it has the pressure relief spring.

 

[url]http://home.comcast.net/~simon-c/enginebay.JPG[?url]
Picture of my Motor Guard Canister mounted convienently for non-messy filter changes.

http://home.comcast.net/~simon-c/FFmount.JPG

There is a pic of the adapter, it's hard to really get a good angle.

Images edited to LINK'S by FTE

 

I know I will hate myself tomorrow for asking but why would you want to run a by-pass on a gas injected engine? The Tritons are an extremely clean engine and don't require that degree of filtration. If you have intentions of going with extended oil changes which will put you outside of Fords engine warranty, changing the standard oil filter every 5,000 miles and topping off the oil is far cheaper than a by-pass. Using a by-pass on a diesel is not cost effective unless going with extended changes, it's even less cost effective on a gas engine.

Okay, so you don't like my question/answer. If you have to have one, make sure that it has a check valve that shuts the by-pass off in case the oil pressure drops below 30 PSI. Otherwise, you engine may starve for oil.

 

Becuase 60% of all engine wear is caused by particles too small to be picked up by a Full Flow filter. Engine warranties are not worth the paper they are printed on, they will tell you 1 quart per 3,000 miles is "normal" oil consumption. My engine is a 351W with 80,000 miles - burns no oil and i change the oil filter every 2-3,000 miles. I haven't changed the oil since i installed the Motor Guard which was 20,000 miles ago. The mileage is WAAY to low to brag about, but the oil still looks like new on the dipstick so thats something to brag about.

The bypass filter will not drop your pressure - if you began with 40psi, you will end with 40psi after installation. It draws only a small amount at a time.

 

Thats more hype than reality.

 

theoilguy, I sincerely hope that you have an oil that is designed for extended oil changes like Amsoil or Delvac1 or similiar. I also hope you are smart enough to get oil analysis every 5,000 miles. The color of the oil and it being clean/clear means absolutely nothing. Your engine can be eaten from the inside out by acids that are formed from combustion. If the additive package of the oil is not designed to handle the load, your engine is going to suffer at the bearings first, then as pressure falls, the rings and then your oil usage will go up. But, when it gets that far- it's too late. Additive depletion is far too common for many people that think just because the oil is clean it is fine. It isn't.

In regards to the check valve, should the pressure fall for any reason, running a by-pass with no check valve may be the difference between losing an engine or having an engine that survives. It's only smart to install a check valve which is why most folks that run a by-pass as part of their equipment package require them.

Engineers world wide all agree that any particle smaller than 40 microns will do no damage to the engine. Smaller is always better but there is a point that the returns are no longer cost effective. Most full flow filters will filter at a rate of 10 microns absolute, single pass. This far exceeds the manufacturers design wear rates. And considering that the Triton engines are designed for 200,000 miles using nothing but a full flow filter, there is not much need for a by-pass with a fuel injected engine. Farm equipment, hiway equipment such as dozers, water trucks, construction equipment,etc, that the engine lives in dirt, I recommend by-pass filters to all of my clients.

 

I use Amsoil HDD 5W-30, this oil is designed to go upto 20k without a bypass filter.

And it's not just dirt, its condensation in an engine that destroys it, if you can remove water you are removing a sludge factor. 1 Quart of top-off oil every time i change the roll of toliet paper is more than enough to replenish the additives and such. I find it interesting that this seemingly "pointless" mod is used by truckers and such and they acheive millions of over the road miles. Check this out:

"Title: Don't Bypass Bypass Filters
Author: Gelinas, Tom
Journal: Fleet Equipment Vol: 14 Iss: 7 Date: Jul 1988 pp. 39-41
Abstract:
According to some estimates, 60% of the potential causes of engine wear and failure can be eliminated by a well-designed and properly applied filtration system. Cummins Engine Co. recommends that both a bypass filter and a full-flow filter be used. A bypass filter shunts 10% of the total oil pump output through a filter and then back to the sump, bypassing the engine. Because this filter has high-pressure differential and low flow rate, it can filter out fine particles in the 5-micron range. In contrast, a full-flow filter has a low-pressure differential and filters out only large particles in the 40 micron to 60 micron range. However, the full-flow filter is located so that all of the oil must flow through it before reaching the bearings. The combination of these 2 filter types gives double protection against wear. Studies at the Cummins Technical Center indicate that wear can be reduced up to 91% by using a bypass filter in combination with a full-flow filter."<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

You are adding one quart of oil and a roll of toilet paper every 2000 - 3000 miles. That makes no sense. You could probably get the same engine life buying SuperTech and changing it just as often. It would even cost would be the same.

Condensation is not much of a problem in modern engines that are allowed to reach operating temperature consistently.

Also the diesel engine example is not necessarily valid in a gas engine which does not have to deal with the dirtier byproducts of diesel combustion.

 

Of course i can do that with a higher wear rate. The engine may RUN at 250k, but the question is with how much present wear accumulated.

When the engine is at full operating temp, and has full oil pressure, you have what is called "Hydrodynamic Lubrication". This means that the oil film is thick enough to prevent pretty much ANY metal-metal rubbing. At this state, any wear caused is becuase of particles large enough to fill the film thickness.

During startup and under heavy acceleration/load that film is reduced, and becomes "Boundery Level Lubrication" or "Mixed Film Lubrication" which depends primarily on the anti-wear additives to prevent metal to metal contact. Any particulates in the oil will work to scratch through these boundary layers easily. There is more wear taking place under a "boundary lubrication" condition.

By using a properly installed Bypass filter, you effectivily remove the larger particles, as well as the smaller ones, saving u wear. If you use a pre-oiler, then you skip to Hydrodynamic Lubrication, also saving you wear. So ideally using both will give you exceptional engine life.
=

 

What's interesting, NONE of Amsoil's extended change interval oils are API certified!!!

 

Doesn't need to be, people run 15k intervals with this oil and the oil analysis comes back good for continued use.

Don't take the API as the holy grail, it isn't even worth looking at when comparing oils. Meeting ACEA standards is much more valuable becuase its actually "hard" to meet these specs. If anything, the old SJ spec was better for non-synthetics becuase it allowed higher levels of ZDDP (1,000ppm). API "claimed" the higher ZDDP will poison cats and ruin them. The fact is if your car doesn't use oil it doesnt make a difference.

Here's a few funny facts:
1) There is nothing magical about the 1000 ppm limit (same can be said for upcoming 800 ppm) limit. This number is a political, arbitrary limit. A good oil, with say 1500 ppm of P in a healthy car will NOT poison the catalytic converter in a healthy engine.
2) Amsoil does pretty much stay at around 1000 ppm now anyway.
3) So all of a sudden Amsoil became disgusted with API when they started the P limit? Of course this is just too convenient, Amsoil oils have always exceeded the performance portions of API, without poisoning cats, with evaporation/loss rates much lower than all the licensed oils.

 

Well, you are wrong!! API certifications IS important when it comes to vehicle manufacturer's warranty staying valid!!! Don't believe everything
Amsoil tells you about their oil. Read the "fine print" in their warranty. For them to cover engine damage (that vehicle manufacturer's don't cover from the use of Amsoil oil....kind of strange they are expicit in this eh??) you have to get this warranty in writing first!!! Why is it that Royal Purple, a competitor of Amsoil, and NOT a MLM company, has all their oil API certified??

Here is another post regarding Amsoil, just another example how Amsoil lies, and does business:

Please take note of two tests for volatility

DIN 51581) 250°C for 1 hour - Your Amsoil
ASTM D 5800 400F 6.5 hours Castrol

Speaking of Amsoil and test procedures maybe someone can tell me exactly why they use different RPM's AND different temps for their 4-ball wear tests in their own line of oils ?

Thats an apples to oranges sorta thing , ain't it ?



I suggest you check out these URL's on MLM companies!!

http://www.falseprofits.com/MLM%20Lies.html

http://www.shop-money-time.com/main/id45.html

It's strange that just about all of your posts concerns Amsoil products, what is your affiliation with Amsoil????

 

For warranty purposes, yes you have a point you are risking it. Then again if your engine fails with Amsoil and you took an oil analysis to prove the oil was in good shape you can fight it in court and probably win a new engine. Me for instance, i have a new 2003 Audi A4 1.8TQ I am using German Castrol 0W-30 which is a Group IV oil just as good as s2k 0w-30 from amsoil and costs a dollar less per quart. My van on the other hand has no warranty anymore so i am not worried about that, i will use whichever oil i feel is best for my application/driving style.

 

Unless Amsoil has some "HOLD" over you, and you have already said the Castrol is as good as the Amsoil, and a dollar a quart cheaper, why would you use the Amsoil?????? You must have some concern with warranty
coverage, or you wouldn't be using the Castrol in your Audi!!

You ignored my question in my previous post, what affiliation do you have with Amsoil?????