To hone or bore?
#1
To hone or bore?
From y'all's experience rebuilding motors how bad would you think "dry start" scratches on a cylinder wall would have to be before you would bore or hone?
I've got minor scratches on the wall and I'm thinking a decent hone should be enough. The engine burns oil about a quart per 1000 miles. I know there are seven burnt exhaust valves and the stem seals are shot. I know some of the oil loss is past the seals. I don't however believe the wall scratches have that much if anything to do with the oil burning.
What measure of "how bad are the scratches" can I use to make the decision?
Thanks folks.
I've got minor scratches on the wall and I'm thinking a decent hone should be enough. The engine burns oil about a quart per 1000 miles. I know there are seven burnt exhaust valves and the stem seals are shot. I know some of the oil loss is past the seals. I don't however believe the wall scratches have that much if anything to do with the oil burning.
What measure of "how bad are the scratches" can I use to make the decision?
Thanks folks.
#2
Being nothing more than a monkey (rather than a machinist), I use the fingernail method. I rub the edge of my fingernail across the width of the scratch on the cylinder wall. If my fingernail crosses without sticking, I'll hone. If it catches my fingernail, I'll bore.
I'll also bore if there are many, many such scratches all over the place. One or two scratches... naaah, hone away.
I'll also bore if there are many, many such scratches all over the place. One or two scratches... naaah, hone away.
#3
Bore it! Those are not DRY START scratches. Those are gall marks from when the engine got TOO HOT at some time or another. Any engine with high mileage needs to have the cylinders made round and straight again so the rings can seat properly. A hone just follows the shape of the cylinder wall. It is not designed to make it round, only scuff the glaze off the walls. Good luck.
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