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My version of the Exhaust brake mod.

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  #46  
Old 11-17-2005, 09:17 PM
underp2 underp2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramsmoker
I thought I stated that it was an exhaust brake. I do realize that the trucks drive by wire. What you missed was that with the addition of the micro switchs all you have to do is arm the sytem and when you release the trttle, the exhaust brake comes on. In the auto trans trucks you need to have the converter locked for maximum holding power. With the truck switched in this mode, when you come to a stop it will kill the engine unless it is switched to off or T/C lock mode. In T/C lock mode, the brake micro will disengauge the converter while you have your foot on the peddle. Frrom here you lift enough to roll on your own and speed up to 15mph and let off the throttle and brake at the same time. The converter locks and sounds like a stick shifting. You shift all gears manually. If you can't tell by the intencity, Yes I love it. I did this because there are good times for both and now I have it. My wife is just starting to play with it. She takes off unlocked and flips to lock on the go.
ROGER that. Now I get it, the t/c locked will do it. Mine is a manual, so I didn't have to worry about any of that stuff. Sounds like a great way to setup an auto
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  #47  
Old 11-17-2005, 11:50 PM
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Talking my version of the exhaust brake

I realy like the way it works. But the problem is that I always want more. If I step up the turbo I'll lose thr EBPV so then I'll have to buy a "D-celerator" exhaust brake. I'm practicing here for how I will justify this to my wife. Christmas will be the determaning factor. I gotta come up with something to take her mind off my habit!!
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  #48  
Old 11-25-2005, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixnair
The ECU gives an 8v signal to the solenoid. A full 12v for an extended period of time may damage the solenoid. Also in order to not get a trouble code and a check engine light, you must keep the original wiring intact.

I tested the stock wiring to the EBPV and it is 12 volts.As a matter of fact its 13.87 volts which is what the alternater is putting out.So putting 12 volts to the EBPV with out reducing it will not hurt it any.
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  #49  
Old 11-25-2005, 11:23 AM
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Blueeys2478, it's true that the voltage to the solinoid is the same as battery voltage. However I would like to point out that the signal to the solinoid is pulse modulated. It makes an incandescent test light blink on and off very fast. That has the effect of greatly controlling the amp load on the circuit. The effect of reducing the amp load greatly reduces the excess heat that is generated by the coil. I would be very nervous of just sending straight power to the solinoid without cutting it down with a ballast resister. Check the original post that I made at the start of this thread. There is a Radio Shack part number for a resister that I tied into the circuit to protect the solinoid coil. The EBPV turns on and off just as fast whether the resister is installed or not.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
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  #50  
Old 02-01-2006, 02:21 PM
phil haffcke phil haffcke is offline
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Smile exhaust brake 7.3

lets see if i've got this right, asuming i find the connections under the hood, its a van remember so not much room under the hood. being an automatic i chose a double pole single throw on/off switch, one side to hot when van is running other pole through 10ohm resister back to the solinoid no need to cut the ground wire, right? the other side of the switch will control the t/c lock up. does this sound ok to you, don't forget i might be the idiot behind you coming down the hill hollering Nooooo Brakes!!! thanks again phil
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  #51  
Old 02-01-2006, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil haffcke
lets see if i've got this right, asuming i find the connections under the hood, its a van remember so not much room under the hood. being an automatic i chose a double pole single throw on/off switch, one side to hot when van is running other pole through 10ohm resister back to the solinoid no need to cut the ground wire, right? the other side of the switch will control the t/c lock up. does this sound ok to you, don't forget i might be the idiot behind you coming down the hill hollering Nooooo Brakes!!! thanks again phil
I think so, hard to tell from your very condensed version there. I would cut both wires to the EBPV solinoid and not try and ground through the ECU like that. In so doing you isolate any potential voltage spikes to the ECU.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
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  #52  
Old 02-02-2006, 12:42 PM
phil haffcke phil haffcke is offline
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ok, my little pea brain is still at it, please bear with me, don't want to damage my most important ride. i think what your telling me is i need to put a on off switch between the low voltage supply to the solenoid on the ECU so when the switch is on all is normal when off i'll have backpressor from the ECU? if this is correct thin would i still need a new hot wire and resister? and if this is correct, i would just cut the wire going to the solenoid ,splice in wires long enough to reach the dash and install a switch, or am i trying to over simplify the whole thing? thanks for your patience please don't give up on me. phil
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  #53  
Old 02-02-2006, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil haffcke
ok, my little pea brain is still at it, please bear with me, don't want to damage my most important ride. i think what your telling me is i need to put a on off switch between the low voltage supply to the solenoid on the ECU so when the switch is on all is normal when off i'll have backpressor from the ECU? if this is correct thin would i still need a new hot wire and resister? and if this is correct, i would just cut the wire going to the solenoid ,splice in wires long enough to reach the dash and install a switch, or am i trying to over simplify the whole thing? thanks for your patience please don't give up on me. phil
I need to answer this later, heading off to bed. Please write again to remind me.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
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  #54  
Old 07-25-2006, 09:02 PM
DocEmmit DocEmmit is offline
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I love the exhaust brake idea. I drove a 36' straight truck for 1 1/2 years and learned quick how helpful they are. I wired two psd's the same day with these directions. The '97 works perfect, but my 2000 just gives me a loud hiss when I flip the switch. I know my wiring is right because this is the same sound I get on a cold morning when the truck is doing it's thing to warm up. When I bought the truck, this was not a problem. It started shortly after I used my hypertech programmer. Could this be a programming error? or has something gone bad? any ideas?
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  #55  
Old 07-25-2006, 11:38 PM
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Doc, it sounds like you have an exhaust leak. When you close the EBPV the pressure builds up behind the butterfly valve and then leaks off. The same thing happened to my '02.
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  #56  
Old 07-26-2006, 08:05 AM
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Could the EBPV itself leak? The noise is coming from that area. I was going to buy a four or five inch exhaust anyway, so it may be something I can fix when I do the exhaust.
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  #57  
Old 07-26-2006, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocEmmit
Could the EBPV itself leak? The noise is coming from that area. I was going to buy a four or five inch exhaust anyway, so it may be something I can fix when I do the exhaust.
Check the bolts holding the turbo exhaust housing onto the assembly as well. They are known for coming loose.
Exhaust leaks are easy to find on a diesel. They always leave telltale black marks in the area that is leaking.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
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  #58  
Old 07-27-2006, 08:12 PM
underp2 underp2 is offline
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long time ebpv user.

I believe the hissing noise is caused by the butterfly valave closing. Because the cross sectional area of the pipe is greatly reduced the pressure of the exhaust increases (which causes the braking effect). The velocity of the gases increase on the other side of the valve as the pressure drops & the area increases, which I believe causes the hissing noise.
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  #59  
Old 07-27-2006, 08:48 PM
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I wasn't getting any of the pressure. I did check the bolts. I didn't see any that seemed loose. I took it to a very well known diesel mechanic. He lifted the hood and said, "You have a serious problem. All of your bolts are missing." That explains why I didn't see the bolts. He said it should be ok since the truck was still running good, but the turbo would have to be checked after it was taken apart to replace the bolts. This also explains a minor loss in power I've noticed. Not having the time to take care of this myself, it takes an experienced mechanic 2 hours, $140 in this case, if the turbo is ok. This also explains some of the loss in power. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it back and get the chance to try out my Jake brake going down the mountain on my way home. Thanks for telling me to check those bolts.
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  #60  
Old 07-27-2006, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocEmmit
"You have a serious problem. All of your bolts are missing.".
Hahahahahahahaha, this is the funniest line that I have read in a long time.
Understatement of the week!!
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:13 PM
 
 
 
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