IF you use a three position switch, on/off/on, you could then use one of the on sides to run from the ECU to the switch, so in the winter it would do its normal warmup trick, also, from my experience, If you went this route, put a diode inline with the lead coming from the ECU, this will prevent any voltage spikes from getting back to the ECU, if anyone is interested in something like this let me know, and I can give you the finer details of what is going on. Awesome info Kwik, glad to here everything work great.

 

Thanks KWIK, great info. I started with your writeup, and then modified it heavily. I ran the hotwire to a keyed 12v source on the forward solenoid on the passenger side of the engine. I am not sure which one it is, but I think it is the one next to the glow plug one. Then I ran the ground side to one of the customer service wires at the firewall, into the cab. From there it goes to a on-off-on switch, which is wired to ground, and also through a diode to the load side of a relay. The other side of the relay is tied to ground. The relay's solenoid hot side is wired to the brake light switch, and the ground side to the other side of the on-off-on switch. I can now turn the EBPV on, or "armed" to come on whenever the brake lights are on, meaning barely pushing the brake pedal. At the same time I also wired up the T/C lockup to my old clamp switch. I then tied the t/c side of the switch, through another diode to the EBPV line, at the relay. I will try to get a schematic posted, or sketched up, but ultimately, this allows me to manually turn on either my T/C, or EBPV seperately, without interferring with each other, or to "arm" the switch so that whenever I hit the brake pedal they both activate together to create an effective exhaust brake. I still plan to wire up a few LED's as indicator lights for whats going on.
I had a chance to check out the exhaust brake feature, more than expected this weekend. I was coming back with a load of firewood from Central Oregon, GCVW of 15,750lbs which includes Mt Hood, and the Indian reservation which is in a valley and has a nice 5 mile 8% grade in and out. Well only after loading up did I realize My trailer brakes were not working. Well going down the 8% grade or so, with the exhaust brake on, in second gear, I was easily able to hold 50, without hardly having to rely on the trucks brakes It wouldn't slow me down well, but rather would hold whatever speed I was at.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. It's nice to return the help that was so generously offered me when I first bought my truck and was full of questions.

 

im wanting to do this to my 95 psd with automatic trans. Can someone send me a schematic of the wiring, i cant quite see the one on baz's website thanks!

rneel AT 3wave.com

(Click Here to find out why email addresses are removed from posts.)

 

Does anyone know if the increased exhaust pressure in the turbo could shorten it's life expectancy?

 

When the EBPV closes there is elevated (and equal) pressure on both sides of the turbine driving wheel so no force is exerted on the wheel itself. There is though, an increased pressure on the turbine shaft seal. That shouldn't stress this part though.

 

Hey just did a search and found this post. Couldnt u just tap into the wire and wire up a switch to the lead? Turn it on and off, let it operate like normal when its off. Dont know, anybody???
cheers

 

The ECU gives an 8v signal to the solenoid. A full 12v for an extended period of time may damage the solenoid. Also in order to not get a trouble code and a check engine light, you must keep the original wiring intact.

 

8 volts eh? Thanks for the info. After seeing the pulse modulated signal to the solinoid I figured that I better put a ballast resister in.

 

So if i put in a resistor from 12v to 8v when i spliced into the line would it work? just trying to keep the stock stuff working.

 

That's what I did. The resister that I used is a 10 ohm resister so the volts will be even less than 8 at the solinoid. It's plenty big, too. If you go to my first post in this thread the Radio Shack part number is listed.

 

I want to add that even though it's only a 2 watt resister, the solinoid doesn't draw enough power to burn it out. I've used the same resister for a year now, and it's been on for 15 minutes at a time while going down some long mountain passes.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062291&cp

 

Ok, just re-read your post about wiring. Do i have to cut the ground wire going to the valve? Couldnt i just splice into the hot wire with the 8volts and run it to a powered(8v) switch? Or would i have to cut it, and wire it to the switch, seems like the same thing, just less wires.What do u think?

 

Well you might be able to get away with it.
However, I don't have inside information on where that ground wire leads once it get's back to the ECU. I didn't want to take the risk of back-feeding the ECU somewhere, so I cut both wires.

 

I made mine about 3 years ago from info/posts/links I got at FTE.

Mine involves several relays and the diode and is linked to the accelerator pedal. The relays are used for logic. I used a 2-position push/pull switch that I mounted to my stickshift (still waiting for my 2-speed axle switch to come in, which should make it look a lot more finished). With the switch off, the EBPV works normally. With the switch on and your foot off the accelerator, the EBPV acts as an exhaust brake.
When towing or in traffic, I leave the switch on. It doesn't do anything until I let off the accelerator. I love the way it works. I think it is better than flipping a switch on & off when you want it, and I don't have to touch the brake pedal. Good luck w/ your 'jake' & Let me know if you need more info.