My wheelbase is like 185-190 inches I think(rollback) It has 2 carrier bearings & I have a vibration around 55mph that is not there around 50mph & actually gets a lil better with speed but still a lil vibration there..push in clutch at 55-60mph & vibration stays there so it doesnt go with the engine..Could this possibly be the carrier bearing? If so how is a good way to check them..are they suppose to be kinda loose in the saddle or not hardly at all or what?
Thanks,Brian

 

Anyone ever replace or check carrier bearings?

 

how old is the truck and have you ever been in fairly deep water with it

 

94.5 F450 rollback 2wheel drive..I assume it has never been in any water..

 

what about a tire out of balance or a slip belt?

 

I went through a squealing sound with my carrier bearing. When I got up to speed the noise abated. While this is not accurate for your symptoms, here is a Ford TSB to follow and heed when messing around with your carrier bearings.

I can not take credit for this, it was originaly posted by Emtamm:

Article No. 03-22-2
NOISE - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING NOISE - VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 6/1/2002
DRIVESHAFT - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING NOISE - VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 6/1/2002

Publication Date: October 17, 2003

FORD: 2002-2003 F SUPER DUTY


ISSUE:
Some 2002-2003 Super Duty F-Series vehicles built after 06/01/2002, with a multi-piece driveshaft may exhibit a squeaking and/or squealing noise from the center bearing while driving. This noise is produced when the bearing seal rotates in the bearing outer race.

ACTION:
To service, replace the center bearing. Use a center bearing assembly with a white paint dot (built after 6/9/2003). Determine the style of the driveshaft per (Figure 1) and (Figure 2), then follow the appropriate Service Procedure below.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE: WHENEVER DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL IS NECESSARY, IT IS IMPORTANT TO PAINT MARK THE DRIVESHAFT TO THE transmission (OR TRANSFER CASE) AND THE REAR AXLE. ADDITIONALLY, MARK A PAINT LINE THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE MULTI-PIECE DRIVESHAFT ASSEMBLY. THIS IS ESSENTIAL TO INSURE THE DRIVESHAFTS ARE REASSEMBLED IN THE SAME ORIENTATION AS ORIGINAL. FAILURE TO REASSEMBLE THE DRIVESHAFT IN ITS ORIGINAL ORIENTATION MAY RESULT IN AN UNBALANCED DRIVESHAFT CONDITION.



PROCEDURE FOR DRIVESHAFTS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE 1
Remove the boot clamps from the rubber boot and discard.
Disassemble the driveshaft from the coupling shaft.
Remove and discard the retention slinger, center bearing assembly, and dust slinger from coupling shaft.
Install the new dust slinger and center bearing assembly per Ford Workshop manual.
NOTE: DRIVESHAFTS OF THE TYPE SHOWN IN (FIGURE 1) REQUIRE THE INSTALLATION OF THE RETENTION SLINGER PROVIDED IN THE SERVICE KIT TO RETAIN THE CENTER BEARING TO THE COUPLING SHAFT.



Reassemble rubber boot and boot clamp to stub shaft and crimp the boot clamp.
Slide the other boot clamp onto the slip yoke of the driveshaft assembly, then assemble the driveshaft to the coupling shaft. BE SURE TO ALIGN THE PAINT LINE MARKS FOR PROPER ORIENTATION. Align the rubber boot with the slip yoke boot groove. Clamp boot clamp while the boot is in the relaxed position.
Reinstall the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle per the Ford Workshop Manual.
Drive the vehicle 10 miles at different speeds with the driver's side window down to verify that the noise condition is corrected.
PROCEDURE FOR DRIVESHAFTS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE 2
Remove and discard bearing strap bolts and remove and discard bearing straps.
Remove and discard the end yoke retaining nut.
Remove end yoke from the coupling shaft assembly. BE SURE THE END YOKE IS PAINT MARKED FOR PROPER REINSTALLATION.
Inspect end yoke for any damage to lug ears and/or hub splines. Save the end yoke for reuse.
Remove and discard both the center bearing assembly and dust slinger.
Install the new dust slinger and center bearing assembly per Ford Workshop Manual.
Reassemble the end yoke to the splined shaft. BE SURE TO ALIGN THE PAINT LINE MARKS FOR PROPER ORIENTATION.
Install the new End Yoke Nut (F81Z-4819-AA) and torque to 407 N-m (300 lb-ft).
Install the driveshaft assembly to the coupling shaft connecting the u-joint to the end yoke. THIS WILL TYPICALLY BE A TIGHT FIT AND MAY REQUIRE SOME EFFORT TO SEAT THE U-JOINT INTO THE END YOKE. BE SURE THE PAINT-LINE BETWEEN THE TWO SHAFTS ALIGN WITH EACH OTHER.
Secure the U-joint to the yoke using the bearing straps and bearing strap bolts:
For F250/350 applications use Bearing Strap (E4HZ-4A254-B) and Torque Fasteners (F81Z-4N272-AA) to 34-41 N-m (25-30 lb-ft).
For F450/550 applications use Bearing Strap (E4HZ-4A254-A) and Torque Fasteners (F1HZ-4N272-A) to 61-81 N-m (45-60 lb-ft).
Reinstall the driveshaft assembly per the Ford Workshop Manual.
Drive the vehicle 10 miles at different speeds with the driver's side window down and verify the noise condition is corrected.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E4TZ-4800-A Center Bearing
F81Z-4800-DB Center Bearing
F81Z-4800-EA Center Bearing
F81Z-4800-FA Center Bearing
E4HZ-4A254-B Bearing Strap
E4HZ-4A254-A Bearing Strap
F81Z-4N272-AA Torque Fastener
F1HZ-4N272-A Torque Fastener
F81Z-4819-AA End Yoke Nut


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE




Figure 1 - Article 03-22-2




Figure 2 - Article 03-22-2


warranty STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

 

That's why I'm thinking a tire versus the carrier bearing because most of the time the carriers just make noise but a u-joint or a drive line weight coming off will give some vibration as well.

refuse2

 

Well I did notice that someone has replaced the front driveshaft as it looks newer than the rest of it..dont guess there is a way to tell if it is online or not is it?Tire on front of truck were replaced to rule that out..

 

I have the same problem.. I have a 2000 F250 SD with 8ft bead with extend cab. When I get to 50 MPH I start getting a Harmonic vibration. But after 60 MPH it starts going away. I have but new tires and brakes and rotors and shocks on the truck. There is no clunking from the U joints. I have 79,000 miles on the truck. I checked the center bearing and it seemed to be tight

 

Well I think I found my problem..my back universal joint was loose..the u bolts that hold the u-joint down..one was loose & let the driveshaft have alot of side to side play..I changed out all my u-joints & the main front carrier bearing(rubber was loose on carrier)..I havent drove it yet but if you seen how loose the rear joint was..Im sure that was my problem..was actually kinda scary..Thanks for all the replys & guys with same or similar problems..might want to check out your driveline good with the wheels scotched & out of gear..better if the rear is up to where you can find the play..

Thanks,Brian

 

glad to hear it WTG.

refuse2