I uploaded some pictures that I took of the mod that I came up with after all this.
http://client.webshots.com/album/170683790Tiydwc

 

So is the fuel pick up and return the same on the 1995? That looks like that would be well worth the effort if they are. Also am I understanding correctly that you should cut out the o-ring compression fittings and splice in a piece of h.p. fuel hose? Thanks.

 

no the 94 to 97 trucks the fule exits the front ports and then gos to the regulator then the trip back to the tank the 99 up system dead ends in the heads and it return from the bowl the psr had good drawing this quarter of the two fuel systems

 

Kwik,

So now that it's been a month or so since you converted your 99's fuel system basically to that of a 97, can you give us a follow-up report on things like: whether you are maintaining adaquate fuel rail pressure, whether you feel you have completely eliminated fuel air entrainment, and if there are any further economy issues addressed? Are you concerned about your restrictor orifice eroding and reducing the rail pressure?

Have you considered hard-plumbing (maybe with stainless) the right rear fuel supply under the exhaust side of the turbine to eliminate the need for that heat shield?

SpringerPop

 

Springer

I have benn running hydrolic hose for about hose for about 6 mounts whit out any promlem and no heat sheild. My truck is only running the new feeds with the left running front to back and it has helped a lot with the noise the truck made. the way ford has it set up tends to strave the 6 8 firing event amd it worse if you have a chip. it dosn't take much to figure out that the ent of the rail has two injectors that fire in order wil tend to have air in the end of the rail and it make the # 8 firing lean

 

Springer

I have been running hydrolic hose for about hose for about 6 mounts with out any promlem and no heat sheild. My truck is only running the new feeds with the left running front to back and it has helped a lot with the noise the truck made. the way ford has it set up tends to strave the 6 8 firing event and it worse if you have a chip. it dosn't take much to figure out that the ent of the rail has two injectors that fire in order wil tend to have air in the end of the rail and it make the # 8 firing lean

 

So far things are going great. I haven't done a fuel pressure check since I converted it over but I can tell you that the fuel pump keeps up with the demand because of the research that I did before this job. Honestly I got the idea from the way that Bosch designed the old K-Jet fuel injection for gas engines. They bleed off fuel constantly back to the tank. The fuel pumps themselves pump about 30GPH in a continuous circle. My study of the PSD system in the 99.5 revealed a similar design with about the same fuel volume being delivered to the filter housing. More than enough volume to be able to maintain proper fuel pressure with a very small bleed hole.
I never gave any thought to the oriface eroding away. It's made of brass right now. Honestly I don't know how it will hold up. If it fails I'll have to find a machine shop to drill out a piece of stainless steel.
Fuel economy has ended up being about 10-11 mpg pulling the trailer. Total GVW 23000lb aproximatly maintaining 65-69 mpg. 4.88 rear axle and six speed stick. Any faster than that and the engine starts to work so hard just pushing through the atmoshere that the clutch fan comes on and stays on even on a straight and level road. Never mind a hill. So I keep the speed down.
I'll never hard plumb to eliminate the heat shield. It's nicely shielded and not chafing against anything there.

A final note on the fuel pressure thought in this post: I just purchased the adjustable fuel pressure regulater from Diesel innovations along with thier Swisher wheel. On a free saturday I plan on installing the two. When I do that job I also want to put in a tee on the fuel system so I can measure the pressure. I will then be able to provide some hard figures for all these questions. I will post them for all to read here. Give me a month or two. (busy times)

 

The DI regulator has an 1/8 pipe thread port for pressure gauge

 

Oh cool! That will make life a little easier.

 

Finally got around to installing the fuel pressure regulator from DI. I was dissapointed to learn that my fuel pump is wearing out: it can only make 65 psi max. I put the smallest shim into the regulator and the pressure went up a little to about 59. (Hmmm, want a little more than that.) Put the next size shim in: 61. (Want more) Put the fattest one in: 65 psi and the pressure is so uneven that the needle on the guage is wobbling violently from 40-80 psi. If this pump is anything like the Bosch units that I deal with every day it should be well over 100 psi with that shim in there. I drop back down to the medium sized shim and the pressure stays the same, just the pressure spikes go away. So I guess I know what the next purchase is going to be for the truck.

 

Hmmmmm, and that would be Mr Bosch's favorite money-maker? Good choice, however.

 

if you have the link on fuel lines could i get it from you? my email is tonygross2004@hotmail.com .i have a major fuel leak at the back of the motor its a 2001 f250 7.3. the motor valley is dry. and it takes 5 min before it starts to drip around the passenger side of the block and into the tork cover and finally drip the fuel out of the tork drain hole. by reading your thread it sounds like their is a plug their. but where? can you give me some insight on this. i posted a new thread about a bad fuel leak in the forums.

 

You are going to have to go by feel. disconnect the downpipe from the turbo, and pull it out of the way. secure downpipe with bungee strap. reach and feel on the back of the head, and you will feel the boss on the head(its the thing the SS fuel line is connected to.) try to tighten the connection and the boss. If it seems tight then dont put too much more on it, because heads have been known to have hairline cracks in them around that fitting.

 

i have been feeling back there but did not drop the down pipe. i will move it out of the way and see if i can find it. is it a line i am looking for or a plug?

 

no need to pull the down pipe..or i didnt need to for them oring or putting in the regulated return line..if the valley is dry up top..get under the truck and look up and see if everything is wet at the back of the block where the down pipe is....if it is you will need a new oring sleeve to stop it..when you put the oring on the line..hand tighten the nut till it hits the 0ring..then with a wrench give the nut a 1/2 turn..turn key on and see if it leeks..if it does..give it another 1/2 turn...if you go tight on the nut..it spoils the oring and you will need to start over..

here are the sleeves.keep in mind when you order..there are 4 of these on your truck..
Replacement O-rings for Diesel Engines