What Pyrometer gauge KIT to get?!
#1
What Pyrometer gauge KIT to get?!
Hey, does anyone know what pyrometer gauge kit to buy? I found one through RPM for $133 thermocouple style: http://www.*********.com/powergauge.htm
4 Wheel parts wants $154 for electronic non-thermocouple type. The guy down there says the electronic is better but I've heard that therm will last longer. Any ideas?
Thanks!
4 Wheel parts wants $154 for electronic non-thermocouple type. The guy down there says the electronic is better but I've heard that therm will last longer. Any ideas?
Thanks!
#4
#7
Thanks for the info. My '65 Mustang is loaded with AutoMeter gear that has run flawlessly for over 16years...well worth the money.
Did you mount your gauges in a pillar kit or some other pod? My truck (bought it on Saturday) came with a grab handle on the drivers side pillar that I would like to keep there. Looking for a close-to-stock looking install alternative for turbo boost and pyrometer.
Did you mount your gauges in a pillar kit or some other pod? My truck (bought it on Saturday) came with a grab handle on the drivers side pillar that I would like to keep there. Looking for a close-to-stock looking install alternative for turbo boost and pyrometer.
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#8
TheSnowBack, I'm getting the steering column mount one. Looks pretty trick without the pillar gauges. I'm putting the pyrometer in there. Boost is cool to look at but no really need for it
https://www.*********.com/ezRetail/s...07aut15010.gif Type in r p m outlet in the stars and check out that picture.
https://www.*********.com/ezRetail/s...07aut15010.gif Type in r p m outlet in the stars and check out that picture.
#9
I bought the Autometer Z series off E-bay brand new, complete kit for $109 + $5 shipping and handling. They match the stock gauges great and look good in the wood grain pillar pod. This guy sells Autometer gauges all the time. I watched for about a month and all went for $109
Just my .02 cents worth.
2000 Ford F-250 PSD, CC 4x4, On Steroids.
Just my .02 cents worth.
2000 Ford F-250 PSD, CC 4x4, On Steroids.
#10
#11
I bought an Autometer kit and the instructions aren't very clear being as it is a universal fit type thing. Where do I drill into? The driver-side exhaust manifold I assume?
Also, the instructions says to weld the fitting into the cast iron exhaust manifold then screw the nipple into that. Is there any way to just screw the fitting into the manifold and not weld it? I don't have the skills or proper rod to weld cast-iron. Thanks!
Also, the instructions says to weld the fitting into the cast iron exhaust manifold then screw the nipple into that. Is there any way to just screw the fitting into the manifold and not weld it? I don't have the skills or proper rod to weld cast-iron. Thanks!
#12
i drilled the passengers side manifold, you'll need a 11/32 drill (maximum) size or
a 21/64'' drill I believe is what most ppl used for theirs. A 1/8'' pipe tap, Now this
tap is pipe so its actually way bigger than 1/8'' & it has a tapper. On mine I took
out the manifold, clamped it in a drill press & then I tapped it. I drilled Between the
2nd to last & last exhaust ports in the manifold, & it was on the side where the probe
stuck out kinda sideways from the manifold. Hope this helps.
a 21/64'' drill I believe is what most ppl used for theirs. A 1/8'' pipe tap, Now this
tap is pipe so its actually way bigger than 1/8'' & it has a tapper. On mine I took
out the manifold, clamped it in a drill press & then I tapped it. I drilled Between the
2nd to last & last exhaust ports in the manifold, & it was on the side where the probe
stuck out kinda sideways from the manifold. Hope this helps.
#13
#14
yes I got the autometer. The reason I did the passenger's side is b/c it was easier to
unbolt the the manifold where it butts up to the ''up-pipe''. There is 2 bolts there.
My other reason is the drivers side has the bolts holding the manifold at the bottom
the passengers side is at the top, it just seemed like with bolts at the bottom it would
be a little harder. You can use that bushing , but i believe thats just for if you mount it post turbo, because that bushing is probably 1018 mild steel & you would have to tig
it into the manifold, now you could weld it right in the downpipe with a mig, stick, oxy-
acetylene. Anyhow just drill & tap it.
unbolt the the manifold where it butts up to the ''up-pipe''. There is 2 bolts there.
My other reason is the drivers side has the bolts holding the manifold at the bottom
the passengers side is at the top, it just seemed like with bolts at the bottom it would
be a little harder. You can use that bushing , but i believe thats just for if you mount it post turbo, because that bushing is probably 1018 mild steel & you would have to tig
it into the manifold, now you could weld it right in the downpipe with a mig, stick, oxy-
acetylene. Anyhow just drill & tap it.