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Old 07-12-2004, 11:46 AM
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Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Open

Check engine light came on on Friday..... Engine seemed a lil sluggish, but I was using A/C and in stop and go traffic.

DTCP1538
Intake Manifold
Runner Stuck Open (Bank 2)

Anyone have any reccomendations, comments, concerns, and possible fixes to this problem?

In my first post on this forum, I had mentioned that both manifolds were removed and resealed end of May '04. I think the repair shop I went to should be responsible for fixing this but thats just my take. If its not an easy fix, i'll take it to the dealership where I know it will be done right. Please advise, as I am unsure yet how to proceed. Thanks!!

1997 F-150 4x4
4.2L 5spd
95,000 mi.
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Old 07-12-2004, 04:05 PM
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See BrianA, this is one of the threads I was talking about.

I would say just go take it to the dealer and let 'em fix it. I don't know a decent answer to that... What do you think Brian?
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:51 PM
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Ron,
Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
There are, obviously, 2 IMRC's. That is Intake Manifold Runner Control.
One on each side on the very back (firewall end) of the intakes.
I'm not really sure if you can do a quick check to see if one is bad. I believe the signal to each is the same, so if you have enough slack in the wiring harness, you could swap connectores between IMRC and see if the problem changes.
I believe the IMRC are on/off. When the RPM's go above a fixed level (around 2500 I believe) I think the IMRC are "activated". I believe they are not much more than a solenoid that pulls on a cable attached to a butterfly valve assembly; one for each side.
I don't know how accessable the whole set-up is. If you could access the point where the cable attaches to the arm going to the butterfly valves, maybe you could tell if it is stuck. That would be my guess because if the IMRC failed, the butterfly valve would never open.
Make any sense?
Please let us know what you find out.
This is a new one around here. (Congratulations )
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Old 07-13-2004, 06:18 PM
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I am trying to avoid taking it to the dealer, because $$ is tight right now, and on top of that taking off work to get it fixed would compound that. But, I am going to do everything within my means to reslove this and hopefully find all the answers. My friend who is a top notch mechanic (30 years and counting) is on vacation till next week...So taking apart the manifold is out until than.

Brian, do you think a Seafoam treatment could possibly be a way out of this? Could it possibly loosen the butterfly valve and the runner and allow if to work properly?

Its just a shot in the dark, but i am sure my engine could use the treatment anyway. BTW the "check engine" light went off today, and I did not really notice the sound of the IMRC sticking, (its usually pretty noticeable when shifting above 2500 rpm) it sounds like all the vents are opening when you shift your AC or Defog on.

Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:40 PM
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Off Road Ron,ive been a SeaFoam user for years.But, just recently I tried a new product; Amsoil Power Foam! This stuff is awesome! What it does is,comes out as a foam,clinging to the source and dissolving it.Eventually,it turns into a liquid,like SeaFoam.What I did was;removed the throttle body.I then got a length of 1/8" od clear hose about 2' long.I taped it to the spray tube that comes with the can and snaked the tube into and around the upper intake runners,releasing the foam into each runner.I might not have gotten the tube in every runner but I could "feel" the hose thru them.I know I did get the hose all the way to the back and released the foam as I removed the hose.I then let it sit for an hour, cleaned the TB,put it all back together,started it up and there was at least 3 times more smoke then a SeaFoam ingestion! That tells me I cleaned a hell of alot of carbon deposits from the upper manifold and the runners.Try it,you will be a believer too!
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:25 PM
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Where can we get it???
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:21 AM
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You can go to any Amsoil distributor.If they dont stock it they can order it for you.I paid $7.00 a can.This stuff is great!
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Old 07-24-2004, 10:19 AM
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Sweet, I'll see if I can find a distributor in my area, maybe Brian know's of one. Btw, I can see the IMRC shaft rotating on my truck. At idle, it's in one position, I assume closed, but if I rev it the tiniest little bit, they rotate to open. Is this normal?? I was under the impression that they only opened above a certain rpm. If they are already open, why are they open at idle?? My truck is an '02 w/125,000 mi. and as far as I know, it's been that way all along.
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Old 07-24-2004, 10:30 AM
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Go to this website and ask in there;
www.bobistheoilguy.com
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Last edited by BlueOvalFitter; 07-24-2004 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 08-25-2004, 03:28 PM
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Hey guys sorry I have been away for a bit, but this problem is getting worse...

At RPM's below 2500(when the IMRC open) I am getting a rattling with what I am assuming is the runners...Because once the IMRC open, the sound is gone...The enigne still feels like its not breathing right until 2500 RPM's and for the time being, repairing this is out, (just spent $700 on a new starter and ball joints) What am I looking at for $ if the IMRC's need replaced? Thanks guys
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:33 PM
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Update on this possible intake problem:

About the rattling/vibration I was describing. It ONLY occurs at 2000 rpms(in any gear), and a lil over, once it hits around 2200-2300rpms it dissapears, until the next gear... I know the runners open at 2500, but what is occuring at 2000 rpms?? Its been about a month now, and the rattling seems go get louder each week....I plan on tearing into it very soon, but I have no idea what I am going to encounter..

Has anyone else seen/dealt/resolved this problem???
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:39 PM
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Seems like you are on the right track. I haven't known of anybody to have problems like you describe with the IMRC setup.
But, it seems you do!
I do not know if the IMRC is an on/off system or if the change over is gradual. I believe it is on/off based on RPM. If it were me, I'd try and figure out a way to tie, or otherwise secure the IMRC system in the "hi RPM mode". I'd expect it to run like crap at lower RPm, but at least you could determine of that is where the rattle is coming from. If it is, then return them to normal operation one side at a time and you should (I'd think) be able to tell which side - or both - is causing the problem. Inspect for loose or worn linkage or solenoid.
Like I said, this is a new one for me so I sure want to know what you find out.

edit: I found this:http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...d=1103&src=vip
Maybe some ballpark info on pricing?

do a Google search on "Ford IMRC", you can find some more info.
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Old 08-27-2004, 04:08 PM
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Brian,


Thanks for all your help and info...I have never seen a better forum in terms of helpful advice and solid info!!!

I have a gut feeling the problem is on the passenger side IMR, as the rattle "appears" to originate from that side. I would wager that the Windstar price comparisons are about spot on, as the costs for the EGR and DPFE sensor were the same as I paid to have them replaced..Isn't the 3.8 the same engine we have?

I am googling right now! I just hope its not the IMRC actuator!

PS, I heard something else strange on way to work today (sounds like a belt)....SO looks like something else is looming on the "Problem" horizon for me!!
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Old 08-27-2004, 04:21 PM
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I am a lil worried after reading this post:

http://www.autonerdz.com/autonerdzfo...ages/146.shtml
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:01 PM
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4.2l killing me

Quote:
Originally Posted by travlnman View Post
Sweet, I'll see if I can find a distributor in my area, maybe Brian know's of one. Btw, I can see the IMRC shaft rotating on my truck. At idle, it's in one position, I assume closed, but if I rev it the tiniest little bit, they rotate to open. Is this normal?? I was under the impression that they only opened above a certain rpm. If they are already open, why are they open at idle?? My truck is an '02 w/125,000 mi. and as far as I know, it's been that way all along.
I am having some what of the same problem except the IMRC are closed at an idle and at slow rpms they only open at something over 2000 rpms my mech said that they are suppose to open at high rpms which mine were doing but the other day the engine light came on and it started to run rough? I do have to tell you that I have changed almost everthing from my dpef valve to the squeeking tensioner pully to idler pullys new fan belt vaccum control valves and it is still costing me more money? Today i had a friend who had a handle held dianogstic mointor and he plugged in to my 4.2l and it came up with the code 1537 which stated intake runner control valve stuck open (bank 1) should i replace these to i've located them (2) it will not pass smog and I'am at whits end can anyone help?
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