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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2011, 10:20 PM
jayms18 jayms18 is offline
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I have the same problem with my1998 ford windstar van(3.8L). I just replaced the heads and all now its running rough and shuts off when i drive it after awhile ,what can we do replace both of the runners mine says bank 2, what and how do we fix this?
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:26 PM
jayms18 jayms18 is offline
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Hey guys i have the same problem with my 1998 ford windstar van(3.8l) i just replaced the heads , gaskets and all but when i drive over a period of time the van runs rough and wants to die out especially when i come to a stop . I just went to chech the code with a scan tool and it came up as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL BANK 2 STUCK OPEN, what should i do?
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:28 PM
bokker bokker is offline
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hi, hope i have picked this up correctly if your truck is 1997 then it may be vacuum controlled so first check for vacuum leaks to the imcr units. it is possibly to remove the pipes and check by adding a pipe to the units and simply sucking and hopefully you will be able to feel / hear the flaps opening and shutting. only with the engine off. yes they do get choked up and stick on the shaft bearings. bokker.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jayms18 View Post
Hey guys i have the same problem with my 1998 ford windstar van(3.8l) i just replaced the heads , gaskets and all but when i drive over a period of time the van runs rough and wants to die out especially when i come to a stop . I just went to chech the code with a scan tool and it came up as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL BANK 2 STUCK OPEN, what should i do?
Check out this video, solution may be specific for our ailment.
2001 Ford Windstar fix for Check Engine Light code P1518 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open - YouTube
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:56 AM
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Which side is the #1 side and which is #2, I'm assuming the #1 bank is on the driver's side and which way would be open? The relax position which is to the outside of the engine or the inside position? I've checked the vacuum line at the source there is vacuum there but not at the switch is that right? Does somebody have the answers on this?
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:27 PM
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william.a.vose
Bank 1 is the bank with cyl #1 on it, doesn't matter which way it sits. O2 sensors are numbered the same way, HO2S1/1 or 11 is the front sensor on bank 1 exhaust, 1/2 or 12 is the rear one. HO2S2/1 or 21 is front on bank 2 2/2 or 22 is rear.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:32 AM
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I'm having a big problem finding the culprit here. I've replaced both IMRC valves and the truck is still kicking out that code. Truck runs great before I replaced and after I replaced the valves, there is no noticeable difference in the performance. Can somebody help this moron out with this problem?
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:56 AM
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I'm having a big problem finding the culprit here. I've replaced both IMRC valves and the truck is still kicking out that code. Truck runs great before I replaced and after I replaced the valves, there is no noticeable difference in the performance. Can somebody help this moron out with this problem?
The user profile you created doesn't mention what we need to know about your vehicle.
My 2001 4.2L V6 has SIX IMRC butterfly valves, one for each cylinder, 2 long control rods which move the IMRC valves on the right & left sides of the intake, & some other structures upstream from those rods that control whether or not the butterfly valves are operated.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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I have a 1997 E-250 Van with the 4.2L engine. I've moved both levers and they do open and close. What exactly is the purpose of the valve?
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:04 AM
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william.a.vose
We went through this on a 2000 model. I'm trying to remember what we found. There is an item called an Intake Manifold Runner Control Monitor that is located on the right (passenger side) top of engine. The 2000 had two vacuum diaphrams that operated the valves. It seems it was the link retainer clips had broken on one and the other had a bad diaphram.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:15 AM
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I replaced both valves and clips all seem to be working or doing what it's suppose to do.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:27 AM
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william.a.vose
Sorry, your U-tube link addressed a Windstar. According to my information, you have two position sensors at the back of your engine. It looks like your system is like the Windstar in having vacuum operated runner control valves. It sounds like possibly one or both of the position sensors are sending wrong information. Unfortunately, further testing requires a more advanced scan tool than the little hand held ones the parts stores have.
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:09 PM
skipper58 skipper58 is offline
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1998 ford f150

hi guys i'm new to this site hoping to get some help
my 98 ford f150 4.2 liter has a code p1537 and says the( intake manifod runner control valve) is stuck open
i checked for a leak or rotted hose in all the vacuum lines i could get.they are all good. there is a spot in the back of the intake manifold i can't get at there are 2 coolant lines and 1 vacuum line going to it. could that be where the problem is,and if it is can i bypass it or do i have to take the intake manifold off to get at it. any help would be greatly appreciated
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2013, 07:58 AM
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Hey Skipper,
Maybe some info from this search will help:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results

You can also try a search for IMRC or runner control, etc.

Pretty much a vacuum operated valves. Nothing extremely high tech.
Yep. Some of what you are going to have to access is there way in back.
If you have the cast aluminum intake (can't remember but pretty sure the 98 is cast) the coolant lines can be bypassed if something goes wrong, but they feed only the intake and don't have anything to do with the IMRC.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:27 PM
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my 98 ford f150 4.2 liter has a code p1537 and says the( intake manifod runner control valve) is stuck open
i checked for a leak or rotted hose in all the vacuum lines i could get.they are all good. there is a spot in the back of the intake manifold i can't get at there are 2 coolant lines and 1 vacuum line going to it. could that be where the problem is,
A few inches to the right of the coolant/vacuum line thingy is a spot that can trip that code when a plastic bushing disintegrates. Then a metal rod falls out of position and opens several of the runner control valves. The plastic bushing is cheap and easy to replace.
However GETTING TO that area, simply to see it, much less to get your hands or a tool in to replace the bushing can be very difficult.
Go here for details & pics.
https://sites.google.com/site/fordf1...rc-bushing-fix
Note: I did remove the top half of the intake manifold of my 2001 F150 4.2L last year to fix a different problem. While I was at it I intended to replace the IMRC bushing. I wasn't able to, simply couldn't work my hands into that very tiny space. However, I did not have a problem seeing the the IMRC was working just fine, I was only intending to head off a future problem. Another poster here or on some other forum stated he was able to replace the broken IMRC bushing same engine & model series without removing the top half of the manifold, but I think he was an extraterrestrial with anatomy and moves not possible to regular humans.
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1983 F250 6.9L Diesel, bought new & have 160,000 miles on it. Still getting 22-25 mpg driving it around town. Supposed to need a new flywheel ring gear and clutch hydraulics.
2001 F150 4.2L gas, bought at 11,000 miles & have 108,000 on it. Getting 14 mpg around town & 17-21 mpg on interstates depending on wind & slopes. I replaced my rusted out radiator core support in my backyard last winter, it only too me 5 months. If I'm lucky I can use this truck another 3 or 4 years before it falls apart from rust.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:27 PM
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