The clutch on my 84 F250 engages about an 1" or 2 above the floor. It has a slave cylinder down on the fork. I see no adjustment on it at all.

Short of replacing the cylinder, what can I do ???

 

Let out on the clutch slowly.

Make sure you're master cylinder is full of fluid and that the pushrod that actuates the clutch fork is in its little dimple. That's where to start.

Justin

 

add DOT-3 brake fluid to the little plastic master cylinder on the firewall just to the inside of the brake booster/master cylinder...your hydraulic clutch runs off of DOT-3...i know...sounds funky, but that's what the chilton's calls for...

MontanaFord

 

Yup. Done that already.

Is there any way that I can shorten/length the push rods (on the back of the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder) to make it engage higher ??

Which direction do I need to go ???

Or what do I need to replace ??

 

Try this: where the shift fork goes into teh bellhousing there ::should:: be a rubber boot. remove this boot (if it's there) and look inside. see if the throwout bearing is still on the fork. Right now i'm trying everything that could do it but that won't cost anything (or much) to fix.

Justin

 

when u checked the dot 3 fluid for the clutch you did take the inner cap out correct? i know it sounds stupid, but i didn't realize it at first when i got my 84 that there is a little cap under the screw off cap, it actully dips down in a bit and can hold fluid in it.

 

Yea, I did. It looks deceiving. Looks like it has more fluid in it that it really does. Anyways, the fluid level in mine is OK.

I'll double check on that throwout bearing idea tomorrow.

BTW, which direction does the fork need to go to raise the engagment point (to move the pedal higher) ??

 

does it grab insantly, or just start slipping 2" off of the floor?

 

It grabs instantly.

 

The sheet metal in the area where the master cylinder mounts to the firewall can be weak from fatigue. Observe the cylinder as a helper operates the clutch. If the sheet metal flexes and allows the cylinder to move forward, that may be your problem. If that is the problem, it can be fixed by re-enforcing the sheet metal from inside the firewall.

 

Roger that. That is what a mechanic at a trannsmission shop also said.

He said that there is a "KIT" from Ford to fix this firewall problem.

Anyone ever heard of this Firewall repair "KIT" from Ford ???

 

Put a bolt on the fork (drill a hole) and put a lot of washers on it...and adjust it to the length you need it to be. I had that problem with my 84 f150. It might be rigging it but I have had it like that for almost 6 months now and had no problem with it at all. If it is giving too much clutch or not enough just adjust your washers to either side. It works great on my truck.

 

*****make Sure The Whole Bolt Is Covered In Washers!!*******

 

Katmando; I'm not aware of a "kit" to re-inforce the firewall. But, I fixed mine by placing large diameter washers over the mounting studs under the dash. I had to grind a little bit on the washers for clearance but the washers did the trick on my '84.

 

There was a kit. I don't know if it is still available or not. Try your local ford dealer.

The other fix would be to weld up the seam of the crack and/or bolt on about a 3/16" plate to the inside firewall, behind your brake booster/clutch master to strengthen the firewall. I've had 2 manual fords, and neither have had the problem, so I can't give you any other hints.