By using the "Swap Program" at: www.shareamemory.com/radio
I was able to get my radio fixed without having to go without the radio. The guy sends you out a board to swap. Once you get it and install it, you send your defective one back to him. It only costs me $79.99 (that's with the $10 refund he sends you once you send your old board into him). He also gave a 1 year warranty and was very helpful. He has a moneyback guarantee, however, I didn't have to worry about that. I'm back to enjoying seeing the station I'm tuned to and the time. Also, my AM radio station reception is clear again (yes, I admit to listening to AM talk radio)...another benefit of his swap program. Hope this helps someone.
I also repaired my radio/cd player with the info from shareamemory.com/. The radio still got to hot so i
installed a small computer style 12volt fan behind
the left side of the radio. I hooked the fan to a bolt
at the back of the firewall. I used the ground and
12 volt from the radio power cable.
I've removed the display power supply board and resoldered every connection I could. The display now works about 80% of the time. If it goes out on me again I will try again but this time I'll remove the old solder and apply new instead of just melting the existing solder.
Common problem--caused by heat; I was told the unit is a very high quality unit made by Panasonic; my dealer wanted $150 just to take it out and look at it, and then send it somewhere to "fix"
That somewhere is likely a local independent auto sound shop--and what he does is what has been alluded to above in previous posts--he resolders most of the unit--and at the same time, he'll give it a good cleaning--you can take it out yourself--I wouldn't tackle the resoldering.
Call around -- these guys are very familiar with the problem and prices will vary. One guy I talked to was doing 50 units a week for local dealers
"...the main problem with these radios is a poorly designed convertor board. There are specific updates which have to be performed to keep the problem from happening again. Many Dealers were using our repairs as a cash grab...such as the $400.00 you were quoted! That is why we went to the Internet with our repair service. We have serviced thousands @ the $85.00 charge..."
So I'm not quite sure how well resoldering would take care of the problem. A previous post stated you could by the boards and install them yourself. But since I have no skills in that department I thought it much safer to leave it to the pros!
I should have my radio back by Friday, and I'll post back here to let you know how it goes.
It took 4 days to get there via UPS ground (from Texas to Pennsylvania, check UPS.com for delivery times). He fixed it Monday and shipped it back out to me Tuesday, I got it back Thursday via UPS Blue (I requested, cost $10 more).
Check out eBay.com there are a couple other people auctioning off this same repair. Some more $, some less $.
I was very happy with George, he answered all my questions and concerns quickly via email. I'm just so happy to have a display!
On the tensioner thing. Spoke with my dealer, they said my truck has already had that repair done, so I guess it's just some weird noise, I don't know. I have to get it in to have the right rear ball joint replaced, so they can listen for it then. (Except I seem to be the only one who hears it, so who knows, maybe I'm nuts)
Originally posted by janj I have the same problem w/ my 98 xlt am/fm/cass/cd combo.
Sometime when the Explorer start, the display for radio and time does not come on until 5 mins later. Radio is fully functional, just can't tell what station or mode it's in. Happens at different temp. 40 - 80 degrees. Just annoying to me like the other rattles and squeeks. Any suggestions?
I had this problem on my 97 Sport and I fixed it by moving the delay switch on the rear view mirror to the off position.
If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can get instructions to do the display repair yourself at www.shareamemory.com/radio
And if you are not into the do-it-yourself scene on soldering, you can still purchase a new board at that site to fix your problem...no soldering, just a few screws and use of a needle nose pliers.