Hello! I am new here and I have the same problem with our 1998 Explorer. I have read through all of the fixes (and called the dealer: $400.00!!!) and I am hoping this will work: Does anyone know if the CD Player from a 1999 Explorer will work in a 1998 Explorer?? The faceplate is exactly the same, but I am worried about the wire harness in the back. Will the plugs match? I went to a few car audio places and they want to see the car AND the CD player. I am trying to fix this as a present for my husband's birthday and I have to steal his car while he's at work. (Therefore, I don't ever have the car to show them-only the CD player.)
Also, is anyone having the same problem with the 1999 models?? I don't want to fix this one and then have to fix another one.
ANY replies are appreciated! I am clueless about this.
My 98 XLT did this the other nite, the display started to blink on and off at random. I got really frusterated then I moved the instrument cluster dimmer switch to full bright then dim and it fixed it. My guess is the switch had been in one position too long and may have caused a bad spot in the reostat dimmer switch.
1998 and 1999 CD players should be swappable. I have put together a web site to help those with the radio display going out and I have tested 1998, 1999, and 2000 radios in my own 2000 Explorer. Take a look at www.shareamemory.com/radio and let me know if I can assist you in anyway.
This seems to be a much better solution than my husband's - which was to test drive an Explorer and pull out the radio and swap it with my lightless one. Much better - and less chance of jail time as well.
Anyhow, my lights on my radio on my '99 Explorer went out for good about 3 months ago - and I'm glad I didn't bite the bullet and have the dealer fix the radio at a $200 charge.
We'll be pulling out the radio, following the directions and hopefully be up & running again sometime this week.
Thanks to whomever posted the link with the fix ... it's much appreciated!
I'm having the same Problem with my wifes 99' ..I read earlier in the post "for $185. you can have it repaired" Why the factory radios that they put in these Explorers are not that special .. before I'd spend that much to have one repaired I'd go buy a new unit from walmart or even a local stereo shop and have a whole lot better head unit for less.. Just my two cents..
Everyday I beat the standing Record for Concecitive Days I've been alive....
If you like the way the radio is integrated into the vehicle with radio controls on the steering wheel and rear seat controls, I don't know of an aftermarket radio that will replace the Ford radio. It's actually pretty easy to fix with a little soldering experience (or even without...the web site www.shareamemory.com/radio gives soldering tips and techniques for the beginning solderer).
I have a '98 Mountaineer with the intermittent radio panel going on and off. I haven't dissassembled the radio yet, but I will. I'm sure that there is a loose connection inside the thing somewhere and it can't be too difficult to find. I'm sure not going to pay $19.95 for a repair manual on the Internet. It defeats the whole purpose of a user-to-user enthusiast forum.
Once you get the radio out. Remove the two small screws on either side of the plastic face plate. Remove the face.(you have to pull back the small plastic clips) There is a plug that attaches the face to the head unit. You must (carefully) remove to detach the face from the unit. On the back of the face there is several small phillips screws that need to be removed. The circuit board should come out fairly easily. Where the display attaches to this board the solder points are probably broken. Solder these and you should be good to go. Ford radios are notorious for this and 90% of the time this is the problem. If not it is probably a power supply which is more difficult and expensive to fix.
Before you go through the hassle of paying the guy 20 bucks to teach you how to solder (I hadn't done that), try what I did, since I didn't find any burned up solder joints.
I removed the radio. I took off the face of the unit, and then removed the pcb for the controls and display. Since I didn't find any bad solder joints by plain sight, I decided to try the whole take it apart and put it back together trick.
Well, it worked. Maybe it was a loose connection. Maybe the connectors use crappy material and they corroded. I don't know, but it worked, and I didn't blow $20 for access to a web site, or $185 to have a stereo shop fix it.
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