What to set the cab on?
#1
What to set the cab on?
Finally have the cab off my frame so I can get the final welding done, and clean/paint.. Now what to do with the cab in the meantime..
I need to work on the floor and corners. Right now I have it resting on 4 jackstands, doors are still installed.
Anyone care to share their experiences?
thanks
55 - 460/C6, Volare, Ford 8.8 AirRide triangulated, bagged rear.
Sam
I need to work on the floor and corners. Right now I have it resting on 4 jackstands, doors are still installed.
Anyone care to share their experiences?
thanks
55 - 460/C6, Volare, Ford 8.8 AirRide triangulated, bagged rear.
Sam
#2
Got mine settin on a junk 56 chassis that I cut 6" in front of the front cab mounts, and 18 inches behind the rear mounts, , welded 24" legs onto the chassis (new) " horns" , and welded 6" casters to each leg. Front casters swivel, rears are fixed. Easy to steer when I am working alone. I also like the " Fred Flintstone" look. I will do the same with the box with the back half of the same chassis after I attach extensions.
#4
#5
Originally Posted by El Cabron
Got mine settin on a junk 56 chassis that I cut 6" in front of the front cab mounts, and 18 inches behind the rear mounts, , welded 24" legs onto the chassis (new) " horns" , and welded 6" casters to each leg. Front casters swivel, rears are fixed. Easy to steer when I am working alone. I also like the " Fred Flintstone" look. I will do the same with the box with the back half of the same chassis after I attach extensions.
Bryan
#6
When I was at that stage
Sdetweil;
Like Mr4speed, I made up a frame and put wheels on it, that worked for my floor space, (the rougher the terrain you'll be moving the work station on , the bigger the wheel), and trust me, it'll be on there longer than you think!
Depending on what part of the cab I was working on, I'd have the neighbours come over to turn it on it's back or whatever. When it was right side up i had a little frame on top to support the cab so as to not bind on the rear cab corners.
A couple of buddies from my club came up with an even better idea though...
Just like the rotisseries that some shops use for frame restorations, they took two engine stands, secured them at the bottom for the proper distance for the cab at the bottom, and using holes in the firewall fabbed upa plate to bolt to the cab and fit on the engine stand. On the back they just drilled holes and welded them up when finished. This worked great if your out in the country or not on friendly terms with the neighbours since you can swivel your work to whatever angle you need easily.
My $0.02.
GW
#7
Originally Posted by mr4speedford
4x4 palet with $10 worth of home cheapo swivel caster's and a set of 4x6 posts on top of the pallet to prevent rockers from scrapping. Works perfect. -4speed
Sam
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#8
All the methods work fine. My jig will be used a few more times by others working on cabs when they get to that stage and then will become scrap or sit at the farm I needed a more stable unit with the large casters since I am very weak and I tire very easy ( I am on 4 liters of oxygen ) and I work alone most of the time and move this unit to the center of garage when I feel like working on it. I also do not care to cut, grind or weld near wood.
I think I may build the unit with 2 engine stands, I think that is a great idea. Is it easy to move around ??
I think I may build the unit with 2 engine stands, I think that is a great idea. Is it easy to move around ??
#9
Teh bigger and softer the easier on a smooth surface
Originally Posted by El Cabron
All the methods work fine. My jig will be used a few more times by others working on cabs when they get to that stage and then will become scrap or sit at the farm I needed a more stable unit with the large casters since I am very weak and I tire very easy ( I am on 4 liters of oxygen ) and I work alone most of the time and move this unit to the center of garage when I feel like working on it. I also do not care to cut, grind or weld near wood.
I think I may build the unit with 2 engine stands, I think that is a great idea. Is it easy to move around ??
I think I may build the unit with 2 engine stands, I think that is a great idea. Is it easy to move around ??
GW
#10
I bought the inflatable rubber tires from Harbor freight for 4.99 each and built my rolling jig approx. 12" high. Made it easy for rolling in the backyard for sandblasting.
You can also build a short table on top of the jig, lay a section of plywood on it , and have a nice heavy duty rolling work table for your shop.
You can also build a short table on top of the jig, lay a section of plywood on it , and have a nice heavy duty rolling work table for your shop.
#11
Thanks Huntsman, great idea. Now I might have to build yet 1 more jig. A fellow drove by tody and seen the cab on the stand by the front of garannge, stopped and says " Whatchadoin" ? Well, after 10 minutes, he offers me 2 more 56 cabs, 1 near perfect (sw) with no rust in corners and 1 ( bw) with the roof caved in from a sudden load of snow. Both are already completely stripped, so I like. I now wonder if I can put the lid from my sw onto the big window, OR graft the window portion of the bw unto the sw. 3 cabs , lots-o-choices. Any sugs???? Thanks.
#12
Thanks for the ideas. I came up with this arrangement made entirely out of stuff I had around in case I needed it sometime.
I plan to be working on the new one for the next year or however long it takes. Now I can shove it to the back of the garage to work on more urgent things.
I like the rotissery idea for the cab. I'm thinking about skewering it through the rear window and tranny hole. Maybe next year for that.
I plan to be working on the new one for the next year or however long it takes. Now I can shove it to the back of the garage to work on more urgent things.
I like the rotissery idea for the cab. I'm thinking about skewering it through the rear window and tranny hole. Maybe next year for that.