I've had this annoying ticking noise for some time now.....
It only happens under load, accelerating or driving up a hill. If sounds very similar to detonation (engine "knock") with it's frequency but I don't think it's that. I'm been reading about exhaust manifold bolts breaking - could this cause a ticking noise?
Anyone have any tests I could do? I'm not throwing any error codes for either engine off or engine running.
1995 E150 5.8L V8
High top conversion van
55,000 miles
I've had this annoying ticking noise for some time now.....
It only happens under load, accelerating or driving up a hill. If sounds very similar to detonation (engine "knock") with it's frequency but I don't think it's that. I'm been reading about exhaust manifold bolts breaking - could this cause a ticking noise?
Anyone have any tests I could do? I'm not throwing any error codes for either engine off or engine running.
1995 E150 5.8L V8
High top conversion van
55,000 miles
Normally exhaust leaks go away after the engine gets warm enough to swell the metal exhaust parts. The small blocks were also almost as famous as the big blocks for cracking manifolds. I haven't heard of broken bolts on the older engines, just on the newer modular motors. Pull your doghouse and look at your manifolds. When your engine is cold, fire your engine with the doghouse off, you will be able to tell if you have manifold leaks. It sounds like pre-ignition or detonation to me. Have you tried a higher octane gas ? See if that makes it go away if it's not the manifolds, Ken
Assuming the worst, one (or more?) broken exhaust manifold studs, what are the consequences of NOT fixing this problem? Will it eventually lead to some serious engine/exhaust damage? I was leaving with the van for a short vacation in the Smokys in a few days - plenty of hill climbing there...
Assuming the worst, one (or more?) broken exhaust manifold studs, what are the consequences of NOT fixing this problem? Will it eventually lead to some serious engine/exhaust damage? I was leaving with the van for a short vacation in the Smokys in a few days - plenty of hill climbing there...
Paul
Well technically, broken exhaust can burn the exhaust valves, just like running an engine without any exhaust manifolds. But believe me, there's lots of Fords running around with the same thing, mine had cracked exhaust manifolds for 100,000 miles. I can't say how long the engine lasted after I traded it in, but I had like 180,000 or so on it and it ran like a top. But it isn't a good idea to continue with a problem like that. Injectors can make a ticking noise but usually it's a lifter or valve adjustment. Sometimes lifters can partially collapse while still opening the valves enough to run. Good luck, Ken
Just took the dog house off and checked all the exhaust manifold bolts - they seem okay but a little trace of black powder around passenger side rear bolt tells the story. I can push a .004" feeler between the manifold and the head next to the bolt! I guess this means the manifold is warped, yes?
I used a stethoscope around the rest of the manifold but found no leaks. So, off with the manifold I guess but not until after my trip to the Smokys next week. That should give me a little time to say prayers for easy bolt/stud removal.
Question:- Will it make any difference if I try to undo the bolts when the whole engine is hot?
Just took the dog house off and checked all the exhaust manifold bolts - they seem okay but a little trace of black powder around passenger side rear bolt tells the story. I can push a .004" feeler between the manifold and the head next to the bolt! I guess this means the manifold is warped, yes?
I used a stethoscope around the rest of the manifold but found no leaks. So, off with the manifold I guess but not until after my trip to the Smokys next week. That should give me a little time to say prayers for easy bolt/stud removal.
Question:- Will it make any difference if I try to undo the bolts when the whole engine is hot?
Paul
The black streaks is a definite sign, maybe it's a gasket either gone or not tightened ? Use heavy amounts of liquid wrench or something similar the day before you attempt exhaust bolt removal. I don't know if a hot engine as opposed to a cold engine will make any difference. I would guess yes for aluminum heads but if I remember, this is a 351W right ? Which has cast iron heads. Good luck, hopefully the bolt will twist right out first try and you'll have no problems. It never hurts to pray though, for anything,
Last night, for a short term fix (hopefully!) I cleaned the rusty leaky area, manifold and head, with a wire cup brush in my Dremmel and worked some JB Weld into the gap. This morning I cranked up the engine and had No leak = No ticking.
I'm not sure how long this band aid will last - maybe to the end of street LOL. I know it's crude but if it lasts for a week I'm be very happy. If it lasts for a month it will be a miracle!
Well, for anyone remotely interested, I got 600 miles without any exhaust ticking at the manifold. After 950 miles there a very slight tick but nowhere near as bad as the original condition.
There probably aren't any gaskets on the manifolds as they really aren't needed, when torqued down the cast iron mates to the non-warped cast iron exhaust manifold really well. I replaced one on my 87 F150 and didn't use a gasket, it didn't leak, it was the other broken manifold that was leaking.
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HELP - Ticking noise - exhaust manifold?
Now we're getting somewhere!
