1950 F-3 Dual Master Cylinder
#1
1950 F-3 Dual Master Cylinder
OK, I did some searching and found refernces to a Mustang Master cylinder and a few others. Is there a dual master cylinder setup that can be used in the factory configuration? From what I gathered the Mustang setup seems to be the most cost effective and simplest to install. The drilling of holes to hang the pedal and master cylinder does not bother me. I do want a reliable system I will not be worried about th wife driving.
#2
#3
Hi Christopher
I installed a new Mustang M/C in my '51 when I upgraded the front brakes to discs. I used the mounting braket from ECI which allowed me to mount the new master cylinder to the stock holes with no drilling or modifications required - worked like a charm.
The mustang cylinders have a built-in 10lb residual valve for the rear drums, so if you are keeping the drums in the front, you'll need to install an in-line 10lb valve in the brake line leading forward.
I found that plumbing the master cylinder and valves to be by far the most time-consuming part of the job. Installing all of the hardware for the actual brake conversion was one of the easiest jobs I've ever done on the truck. The first side took maybe 2 hours (becasue I triple-checked everything to avod making a mistake), but the other side took 45 minutes tops.
If you want reliability (i wanted my wife to be able to drive if need be, too), I'd strongly recommend discs. My truck always braked well, but if I ever had to "slam" the brakes on due to some guy cutting me off or some other emergency, the truck would veer sharply left or right (randomly) which always scared me. Now, it stops as well as any car I've ever driven.
Good Luck
Brian
I installed a new Mustang M/C in my '51 when I upgraded the front brakes to discs. I used the mounting braket from ECI which allowed me to mount the new master cylinder to the stock holes with no drilling or modifications required - worked like a charm.
The mustang cylinders have a built-in 10lb residual valve for the rear drums, so if you are keeping the drums in the front, you'll need to install an in-line 10lb valve in the brake line leading forward.
I found that plumbing the master cylinder and valves to be by far the most time-consuming part of the job. Installing all of the hardware for the actual brake conversion was one of the easiest jobs I've ever done on the truck. The first side took maybe 2 hours (becasue I triple-checked everything to avod making a mistake), but the other side took 45 minutes tops.
If you want reliability (i wanted my wife to be able to drive if need be, too), I'd strongly recommend discs. My truck always braked well, but if I ever had to "slam" the brakes on due to some guy cutting me off or some other emergency, the truck would veer sharply left or right (randomly) which always scared me. Now, it stops as well as any car I've ever driven.
Good Luck
Brian
#4
#5
Join Date: Aug 2002
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The F-3 has a bigger pedal assembly. The bolts are farther apart so anything for a F-1 won't fit. I just made an adapter plate that bolted the M/C to the plate and the plate to two of the pedal assembly bolts. I have a picture in my gallery. It's in the 1st 51 Mercury M-3 gallery at the bottom.
Last edited by 51dueller; 06-24-2004 at 09:00 AM.