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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #1  
Old 06-15-2004, 06:24 AM
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Christopher2 Christopher2 is offline
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1950 Ford floor board Sheet metal

What is a good source for sheet metal for a floor? The entire floor where your feet go. The seat seems solid enough. I am think of just buying metal fleet galvanzied metal and welding it in. Cover it with some carpeting and call it done.
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:46 PM
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Try the online store, or Macs auto parts. They should both have the floor pans.
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:59 PM
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The online store does not go back that far. I will try Macs
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:17 PM
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Macs has them, the problem is they want more for the sheet metal than I paid for the truck $500.00 shipped.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:51 PM
dmptrkr dmptrkr is offline
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Both these places list floor pans:

Obsolete Ford Parts
C&C Early Ford Parts

About $125 each side. Shipping is probably the killer. I notice you are in Minn. If you are not far from St. Paul "Back to the 50's" Swap meet is this weekend. If you can find a vendor that has them and will be going to the meet and hasn't left yet, you can probably get free shipping.

There is a tech article on this site about making your own replacements.

Craig 50F5
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Last edited by dmptrkr; 06-15-2004 at 07:56 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old 06-16-2004, 07:29 AM
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Have you tried Northern Classic Trucks:

Northern Classic Trucks

The have the floor in two halves.

or EMS:

EMS Sheet metal

They had a one piece floor panel the goes from side to side and from the front seat mount to the toe board, up to where the floor meets the slanted sheet metal under the pedals. I didn't see it listed on their website, you'll have to call them to make sure they still make it.

Click the image to open in full size.

BTW, if you go with the galvanized metal idea, make sure you use good ventilation and breathing protection. Welding galvanized metal really gives off noxious fumes, it will make you sick if you're not careful. I would go with regular mild steel and then apply a good epoxy primer and paint.
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Last edited by bobj49f2; 06-16-2004 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 06-16-2004, 08:13 AM
Scott123 Scott123 is offline
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I'd recommend Northern Classic Trucks too, their floorboards were much cheaper than other companies at $75 each side. They fit well too. I have pictures of them installed on my gallery.

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Old 06-16-2004, 01:58 PM
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Christopher,

I didn't see the reasoning to pay so much for 'custom' formed floor panels... I just bought some 14 ga cold rolled sheet (actually I got it at work) and cut out the toeboard and back to the seat... welded in the patch piece and was done... I plan to undercoat the bottom, seam seal the joints and carpet the top... who'll know ??? still have to build the hump...but you can see what I've done...

check with a local steel supplier or fab shop... you might find a piece large enough in their drop pile... 2' x 5' would do the lower floor and another to do the toe board... pay attention to bracing the cab before you start torching...

Click the image to open in full size.

here's the article on the install...

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...oorboards.html

hope it helps

later

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Last edited by jniolon; 06-16-2004 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 06-16-2004, 07:51 PM
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I like the home made floor board idea. i think I can get the metal fairly cheap. I will have to price that versus a factory made one. The F-3 needs teh floor and the toe boards. The fenders surprising have less rust then my 1977 4x4. I am actually going to drive the truck and work on it. It will be as econd vehicle and a pass time that I enjoy.
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:32 PM
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I haven't had to deal with floor pans on my truck but on my last two MGBs I had to replace the floor pans and made my own from 14 gauge galvanized steel as John did. Worked just fine and I did both cars and have a big piece of steel left over for a fraction of what one formed pan would have cost. Yes it was more trouble and of course it's not any good if you're concerned with a true restoration - but if functional preservation is your goal and you're budget minded it's the only way to go. Do be careful if you use galvanized metal because - as was already noted - if you breath the fumes from the galvanizing material it will make you very sick indeed. Grind or sand the galvanized area back at least a 1/2 inch where you intend to weld and then be sure that you have a well ventilated area to work in or wear an appropriate respirator or both. It's not something to play around with.

Good luck!
Leaks
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:32 PM
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