I'm new to this site, and I've done some searching, but little help... Any info on hydraulic clutch conversion for 79 F-150 would be great.

 

I'm not sure anyone here has put a hydraulic clutch in a 73-79 yet. I will be soon (eventually) depending how soon I get the $$ for the parts when I put a ZF trans in my 79 F150. If anybody does have info on putting the hydraulic clutch in, let us both know.

 

Yes there have been a few threads that have been responded to about the H/C.

 

Ok, after doing a search and reading a few hundred posts, the most specific info I could come up with was to reinforce the firewall with 3/16 or 1/4" plate and mount the master cylinder below/beside the brake cylinder. Nothing I didn't already figure on, but I was hoping for some more specific info. Lots of people that (apparently) did it or were working on it, but none of them provided more details.

 

The ZF uses an internal slave cylinder right?? I have a NV4500 in my truck, so I'd like to use the external pushrod type. Thinking about getting the setup from a late 80's truck and retrofitting it. I'm mostly unsure about the clutch pedal and getting the throw for the master cylinder right. ????? Thanks for your help so far. I should get started by July on this conversion, so I'll update my progress

 

Only the small block ZF uses the internal concentric slave cylinder, the big block ZF can use the existing manual clutch setup with minor modifications, which are detailed in the 73-79 forum. What engine is your ZF going behind?

Just curious as to why you are switching from NV4500 to ZF, since many people here rave about the NV unit as being superior to the ZF.

Looking forward to your progress reports

 

no, no, I'm not switching to a ZF, I have a 351w and a NV4500. I just want to change the manual clutch to hydraulic, in hopes of eliminating some chatter, and such a heavy pedal due to the ram heavy duty clutch. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Ok, I understand now.

 

Should be a pretty easy swap really. I put an older trans in my 94 f150. I couldn't locate a used bellhousing for the external slave, so I used the one that came with the tranny, which originally used a mechanical linkage. I built a bracket to mount the slave. The bracket is two-piece. One was cut from flat 1/4" steel cut with a torch. It has a large hole for the body of the slave cylinder to pass through, and two smaller holes to mount the bracket that holds the cylinder. This piece also has two "ears" with
1/2" holes drilled through them to mount to the two lowest bellhousing to engine bolts.
The bracket that holds the slave has two matching holes to mount it to the other bracket. The portion of the slave that has to be clamped is EXACTLY 1.300". The second bracket is a 1/2 inch thick piece of aluminum with the 1.3" hole and the two 5/16 bolt holes drilled through it, and then cut in half and two 1/4" holes drilled and tapped to bolt the two halves back together. The two halves are placed around the slave, bolted together, and then bolted to the other bracket with two "floating" 5/16 x 3" bolts with nuts on both sides. This allows the whole assembly to be adjusted to the correct point for proper engagement. It sounds like a lot, and I wish I had taken pics, but a new bellhousing was $211 from Ford, and a used one was not to be found. (About two months later, there was one on Ebay for $25!) I was broke and in a hurry.
I built the steel bracket in about 30 mins. at work, and my brother (machinist) built me the Aluminum half in about the same time at his shop. Total cost:$0. I got the hyd line and clutch fork at the Ford dealer for less than $60. Worked perfect with the older bellhousing. As for the pedal, just get one from a mid to late 80's truck at the junkyard, along with brackets and neutral safety switch. It should "almost" bolt in. Just take notes and measurements from the donor truck. The pedal and linkage are all inside the cab. You'll have to make one hole about 1" in diameter through the firewall for the rod for the master cyl., and two about 5/16" ones next to it for the mounting bolts. Get the old slave too, while you're grabbing parts. Even if you want a new slave(good idea), you can use the old one as a template/core if needed. I'll try to come up with some pics if possible and post them for you. BTW, research has shown that the pressure plate and clutch disc is pretty much interchangeable for all years. Different throwout bearings and or/slaves for each major style change. One for mechanical (about '83 back), another for external slave(Mid 80's to early 90's) and then the concentric/integral internal slave type ('92 & up).

 

Hey thanks for the detailed input... Some pics of that bracket would be great!!! Do you think I will have to change my throwout bearing, and fork??

 

Got a clutch pedal assembly for my truck on the weekend, looking at it I'm wondering, do you drive the master cylinder (for hydraulic clutch) directly off the pedal, or do you drive it off the far end of the pivot shaft, like with the mechanical clutch linkage?

 

I am planning on using the inner side of the pivot shaft just like the mechanical. The original bar linkage that is bolted on the end of the shaft is very similar to those in the newer trucks with hydraulic clutch. Actually the whole pedal assembly is very similar. I grabbed the bar off of a 80's truck and I found the the pivot is about 2.5inches center to center. So... I'm going to unbolt my bar and use both as basic templates to make a new one that will bolt on and offset the master cylinder closer to the engine to clear my brake booster. If you take a good look at where the bar is stock, you'll see what I mean. After that I should only have to cut the holes, and maybe lenthen the pushrod to meet the bar and keep the pedel in the stock location. I'm going to start as soon as I get the bellhousing I need with the slave cylinder bracket on it. The local junk yard has several, and I think it will be much easier than making the brackets and possibly miss aligning the slave cylinder. I'll post some pics as soon as I get going on it.

 

Looks like I'll have to go back to the wrecking yard and grab that bracket that was on the end of the clutch pivot. Didn't think I would need it, but I should have covered my rear and grabbed everything possibly relevant.

 

You should only need it for an idea of the distance from the pivot point to the master cylinder pushrod. You'll probably have to make one that offsets towards the engine, because if you use the original one, the master cylinder will have to be mounted on a seam, and it will be too close to the brake booster. I'm just estimating that it will have to be offset at least 2 inches towards the engine. I got all my stuff today, so I should have it done by next week, depending on how much time I have this week end. If your in no hurry I'll put some pics up and some dimensions on the new bar when i'm finished.

 

Seeing as I spent a lot of time and energy getting rid of that NASTY hydraulic clutch set up, No insult intended, but I just have to laugh!

Good luck!