I think it is VERY cool you went for it and built your 4.9 with a turbo. I love seeing strange new stuff. I would love to take a ride. Where are you located?
No offense intended in anyway... I looked at your site, and the system is very simple, and that is good! I would love to talk to you about it, because I am pretty creative when it comes to this stuff, and ideas on intercooling started popping into my head. In fact, I think just rotating your tubes would minimize the work involved.
Water injection is a good charge cooling method, but just think how much power is left on the table, when you consider a 3-core would bring your charge temps down to ambient. THEN spray the Methanol!
you should buy a electrical cellunoid cut out exhaust valve, that way if you want to run without turbo, just open the exhaust rite before the turbo, then for the noise make a 2nd exhaust, since you have connections to pipe and a welder it should be no prob, but the valves (electric) can be 400$
Will the same turbocharger setup work for a carberated 300-6?
I'm looking to do the same, im interested in the turbo project but im wondering how to get the turbo through the carb and if i will have to dramatically rejet the thing. any help?
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If memory serves me correctly, the 6.5 Chevy diesel drives the turbo with only one side of the motor (4 cylinders) or about 3.25 liters. The Dodge turbo is driven by all six cylinders of the 5.9 liter Cummins. This would account for the difference in size. Can anyone confirm this?
Most likely there is a cross over. On V-8 or V-6 applications, you need to balance the exhaust back pressure between the banks. It is doubtful ONE bank feeds a single turbo.
Here is an example, on my personal truck. Two headers, one crossover. The turbo mounts as near the center of the crossover as possible.
The Chevy 6.5 has a crossover.... I've replaced several crossovers on those at work... I don't think I've ever seen a factory turbo anything where the turbo(s) arent driven by all of the engine's cylinders... It would be kind of pointless only having half the motor driving the turbo.... unless the other half is driving another one...
I am getting interested in doing a turbo 300 a little more everyday and with that comes a little more research into what others have done to different applications and more questions.
First one, any reason why you went with larger injectors vs a FMU? Seems that would take care of the rich idle and possibly give you some of your mpg back while not under boost.
Second, instead of tricking the temp sensor, I noticed some kits use a check valve on the vacuum line to the map sensor, when their is vacuum it operates as normal, when their is positive pressure, this valve opens limiting the amount of positive pressure, how effective that is I can't grasp just yet but any reason why you chose not to do this?
Trucks still together and running okay?
Will the same turbocharger setup work for a carberated 300-6?
After looking into this more, I cannot see a reason why it wouldn't work as well. Only drawback is you would need to set the carb up to accept positive pressure...quite a few blow through turbo setups floating around.
What would be a decent carb to put in there so i would be able to turbo my 86? And should someone lower the compression ration on that? And how much boost, or what kind of turbo, is my best bet? Im looking for around 390 cfm carb. But what would be a good one to turbo?
i bought a turbo from this guy at school for $20.00 who had no use for it, it is from a ram 3500 and it is a very big turbo. i have very little knoledge about engines but i grasp the main points. i want to install the turbo on my 300 l6 engine, it is completely stock but other people have told me that it will be complicated to get an exhaust manifold since both of themare on one side and one of them alone would not run the turbo very well. i got a suggestion of making a manifold that went from six pipes to two then to one but then they said that would make me lose power. if anybody knows everything i would need to do this then please let me know i really want to put it on but i cant start the project without knowing wat i am getting in to prize wise. tanks alot for any help u can provide
i was thinking of doing about the same setup you have...almost don't know where to begin though. i wanna do it more for bragging rights than speed though...how many people can say they have a turbo charged 300 lol.
As for putting a turbo off a ram 3500 (I assume this is a turbo from a Cummins).
It will be a large turbo, and in a gasser situation you may find that the size of the turbo creates noticable turbo lag.
As for the manifold. As long as you are pumping air through at a positive rate (i.e. you have turbo boost) the shape of the manifold etc. becomes less important.
Adrian | 2005 4x4 Diesel Courier CrewCab in Aus | 2012 4x4 CC/SB F250 6.7 in the US
2000 4x4 SC/LB F350 7.3 ZF-6 (sold)
I'm going to turbo my '94 300, too. I'm going to convert to MAF using a BIO0 (351W/E4OD bronco computer), Tweecer software to make everything work, and either a stock MAF from a '95 6cyl truck (which will require a MAF transfer chart) or one from a V8 truck (which will require 19lb injectors and lower fuel pressure). I haven't figured out which way I will go. Once I put the turbo on, I will go with a C&L or Pro-M blow through MAF. A blow through will let me run a blow-off valve so I can freak the rice boys out. I'm thinking the turbo will be a 60-1 HiFi with a .82 A/R (or slightly smaller) , divided tangential turbine housing and a O or P trim turbine wheel. I'm going to shoot for 400-ish FWHP using only enough boost to get me there. Hopefully, I can get a fuelie or carb head to flow good enough to handle the airflow at 10psi. If the 60-1 is too big, I will probably go with 2 T3's that will handle 20lbs/min, or so, each. INSTA-TORQUE!
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