I would sure think so.. You could put a hobbs switch activated under boost. Your injectors are rated 14Lbs/hour at 45 Lbs. Fuel pressure. I don't think the flow rate is a linear relationship to the fuel pressure. Here is a calculator I found http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html .. It looks like you'd have to run 84 Lbs. of fuel pressure to get to 19 Lbs. per hour...and that's a lot of pressure. Another idea that I had but never tried was to add an additional injector and control that injector through a hobbs switch...so basically you would tap into one of the existing injector connectors and drive another bigger injector only under boost. Oh.. another thing.. you probably will have to remove that check valve you put on the map sensor as it needs to quickly react to manifold vacuum changes.
Turbo300 have you thought anymore of making a kit like you suggested awhile back? Do you still have your truck? I saw that you were thinking of selling it.
Yeah, I think it's going to take more than the fmu to supply enough fuel , kind of based it on vortechs supercharger system for the 5.0. I think if it starves I'll go for the extra injector. Wonder if all cylinders would get equal amounts of fuel in a manifold designed to flow just air. How about installing two inj in a throttle body spacer to help atomize the mixture and prevent puddling? Well, better get cracking , today or tomorrow fire up day . Thanks.
Well , guess I'm off to a bad start. Hit the key, ran for 20 seconds and died , couldn't keep it running. You are right about the check valve. Eliminated it and it idled fine although there was a noticeable bog when flogged a little. Then I noticed that the garage was filling up with smoke. Lots of smoke. Smoke is bad. Supposedly this unit was rebuilt and hopefully it was so I'm guessing my 3/8 return line is not big enough. Really do not want to drop that pan again. Have a 5/16 supply line so I am going to try putting a restricter in and maybe a fitting for press ga so there is no guessing. What for lines you have? Live and learn.
The oil lines on mine consist of a 5/16" inlet T'd from the oil pressure sending unit. The outlet a custom fabbed up 1/2 inch pipe going to the oil pan. When you had all the smoke coming out did you figure out where it was coming from? If you do things like I do you probably have oil and greasy hand prints all over the turbo and exhaust piping and that stuff starts burning off in a big old hurry.
Have been reading this thread with great interest. I have a brand new and yes I mean brand new, not rebuilt 95 300 EFI that I want to drop into my 1985 F150. Purchased the MegaSquirt II and assembled it. Hopefully when it warms up will be able to install it. I like the turbo part, had never thought of doing that.
Does anyone have the values for a stock 300 for the MegaSquirt. Would like to at least get the MegaSquirt up and running before I turbo it.
What is this megasquirt setup anyhow? Is it a stand alone system or can it be used with the stock ecu especially if you have an E40D trans and most importantly can it be intalled by a nuts and bolts man? Personally if I had a spankin new engine I'd set it aside and find a half worn out one to stick in until all the bugs got worked out .
There later stuff in my opinion is really good... I wasn't a fan of the early megasquirt stuff because it was (in my opinion) EFI from the dark ages.
But now, if I was doing an engine build, I don't think I could justify the expense of using a MoTeC or similar... not when you can buy the Megasquirt unit for $85
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Hey Fred, since you're in the area, what do you think of Kalmaker? I've been really tempted, but $1100 AU isn't really.....um...affordable (about $900 over here).
Got my smoke problem cured. Dropped the pan again and put a 3/4 in line on. 3/8 is definitly too small , blew the oil out especially when cold. took it out on a few short runs ( 5 mi or so ) and am happy with how it runs even at 5 lbs. It feels like a strong v 8 . Cleatus was right on when he said the 6.5 is sized just right for the 300, you can pull a grade without boost if you want but it spools up quickly if you put your foot in it. One thing I'm not sure about though is if I should leave the 0 2sensor disconnected or not. Found out that a narrow band a/f set up is about useless for tuning purposes. When hooked up with the stock 4 wire sensor and plugged in to the harness it doesn't come off of the lean side at all. When just the a/f gauge is hooked to a 1 wire sensor it reads rich untill it warms up and then hardly ever swings lean ,even at 5 lbs. boost . With out a wide band though I have no idea how rich it actually is. I guess for now I'll have to read my plugs and keep the radio down. Any how I'm glad I did it and the more I learn about it the more potential it will have i am sure.
A wideband O2 sensor is an absolute must for tuning. The OP and I drove his around when he put in the MS system. We THOUGHT we had it close ( I mean, it did run good). Then he put on a wideband O2 and we found out just how far off he was. It's surprising it ran at all. Now it's a great-running rocketship.
Here's a few numbers for you guys to drool over:
His 300 with 18 PSI of boost (now I think he's limiting it to 10) made 300 HP and 575 Ft. Lbs. at the rear wheels at about 3500 RPM. So I will guess that he's probably at about 260/500 at 10 PSI.
I have a 460 that we dyno'd a few weeks ago with TBI. I put down 235 HP and 353 Ft.Lbs. at 3500 RPM.
that is sweet,,, i have been thinking about doing it to my 86 300cid for a while now. i went to look at your pics but i cant find them on there...were are they?
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