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1968-2013 Full Size Vans Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2004, 11:14 PM
IJRoorda IJRoorda is offline
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Spark Plug Change on E-350/V10

Has anyone changed the plugs or had the plugs changed on a V10 in a van? How hard/long of a job was it, or how much did it cost to have it done? Our E-350 with V10 needs plugs and at least one coil pack, and I'm wondering whether we should try to do it ourselves or just cough up to have the dealer or a shop do it.

Thanks,
Isaac
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  #2  
Old 06-14-2004, 06:05 PM
WastegateChad WastegateChad is offline
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I've heard people say that it ran them $300 or so for just plugs. I haven't done mine yet so I can't say how hard it is but I sure as hell am not paying $300+ for a plug change.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2004, 06:13 AM
Adventure Adventure is offline
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Keep the plugs and get the single coil on plug replaced. An independant can change the coil plug for about $200 (pull the code for the coil, pull the coil, verify the coil, replace the coil). Dealer in my area wanted $175 just to tell me what I already knew, a coil was bad. I've got 95K, same set of plugs, 2 coils so far.
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  #4  
Old 06-16-2004, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJRoorda
Has anyone changed the plugs or had the plugs changed on a V10 in a van? How hard/long of a job was it, or how much did it cost to have it done? Our E-350 with V10 needs plugs and at least one coil pack, and I'm wondering whether we should try to do it ourselves or just cough up to have the dealer or a shop do it.

Thanks,
Isaac
My 98 E-350 V-10 is at 95K miles, so I'm just about ready for this change too. I know the pick-up guys complain about one plug in particular in the back, but we vanners should not have that particular problem. I can't imagine paying more than $5 each for plugs, and some people say to replace the boots also, which can't be too expensive. The single MOST important thing is to make SURE to get the new plugs torque'd properly, and that you use some thread lube on your new plugs. The V-10 has very few threads in the spark plug holes, so proper torque is mandatory. The thread lube just helps prevent galling between the steel plugs, and the aluminum heads. Some dielectric grease on the boots will help prevent misfire in the future. There is one plug on the V-10 that sits right over a coolant connection. If you have a small leak over that plug it can erode the metal around the plug and cause spark plug blow out. But I'm going to change my own plugs. The doghouse coming off has got to make it much easier than opening a hood. But I went through a major headache after putting plugs in a Zetec Ford. Unbeknownst to me I was cracking the insulators, which would cause a misfire in a couple days, it drove me and the dealership crazy until we figured out what it was. The torque amount is critical. Make sure you have a plug wrench with the neoprene protector, and go slowly and carefully when you're fishing the new plugs down into the hole. You can do it ! (when you're done, post here so I can do mine) Take care, good luck, Ken
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  #5  
Old 06-16-2004, 09:36 PM
IJRoorda IJRoorda is offline
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Yeah, we'll probably have a local shop do the coil but I think my dad and I will probably tackle the plugs ourselves one of these days...the van has 144K miles on it and I don't know whether they've ever been changed or not - we bought it at 137K.

Isaac
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2004, 12:16 AM
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It's not as bad as it looks.
Start by removing the front seats. it makes getting into the engine way easier.
They only take 5 minutes to remove.
Take a look at http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=104027
It's not exactly the same but pretty close.
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Old 06-17-2004, 12:20 PM
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Sweet post that you linked to, thanks. I have been pretty intimidated, but it appears that it's just like any other plug change, just a bit different. I'm looking at my doghouse, and it's looking like I should be able to get to most of the plugs on my V-10. But my-oh-my, if I have to try and get to some of the plugs from the front, with the 16 inch hood opening, and all the rest the doodads that the vans have poking out the front,,,,I just can't say anything else that would be considered polite conversation,,,, But your link to your post was awesome, my thanks ! Ken
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  #8  
Old 06-17-2004, 06:26 PM
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Once you get the air cleaner assembly out of the way you can see the front of the engine
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2004, 12:08 PM
formyfordvan formyfordvan is offline
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Wow, great thread! I had to tell my wife that I did'nt know where the plugs were located on my E-150 4.6L van. I'm no slouch at mechanical stuff but I hav not kept up with the new vehicles and their systems. After reading these threads I think I can do this. With the help of forums like this we can survive. Thanks everyone for sharing the info. When I changed the ball joints last month I wrote up my experience at the van forum hoping someone else can benefit from it. At 60000 miles I have experience a 4-5 mpg decrease in gas mileage over a 2000 mile trip. I am wondering if a plug change will help. I have also noticed the tailpipe looks a little blacker than normal. Running rich? There are no service lights coming on. Is it worth changing the plugs out?
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,
Rick
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2004, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formyfordvan
Wow, great thread! I had to tell my wife that I did'nt know where the plugs were located on my E-150 4.6L van. I'm no slouch at mechanical stuff but I hav not kept up with the new vehicles and their systems. After reading these threads I think I can do this. With the help of forums like this we can survive. Thanks everyone for sharing the info. When I changed the ball joints last month I wrote up my experience at the van forum hoping someone else can benefit from it. At 60000 miles I have experience a 4-5 mpg decrease in gas mileage over a 2000 mile trip. I am wondering if a plug change will help. I have also noticed the tailpipe looks a little blacker than normal. Running rich? There are no service lights coming on. Is it worth changing the plugs out?
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,

Rick
The rough running seems to be common to the mod motors. There's a forum discussion in the V-10 section, look it up there. There are also 4.6 and 5.4 owners who are having the same problem. There's a couple different theories as to what it's worth. Ken
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  #11  
Old 05-02-2011, 06:43 PM
EM1/SS(ret) EM1/SS(ret) is offline
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Heres a Bump for this one!!

Today I got a $2000 estimate from my dealer for some engine work, to include plugs and 3 COPS, I politely declined...

Starting my adventure tomorrow, bought about $300 in parts today...I'll take pictures too,,
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2011, 09:20 PM
dan001978 dan001978 is offline
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I did this job last summer and would agree with everything thats been posted. Def. remove front seats and air intake assembly. Before you remove the old plugs be sure to blow out the socket where the plugs sit with some compressed air so nothing falls into the engine as you remove the plug. I also got a small telescoping mirror so you can check to make sure theres nothing left in the hole before you remove the plug.

Take your time and start with the easy ones. Give yourself all weekend to it right.
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2011, 07:25 AM
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I'll throw a few things into the mix for those who've not yet read the numerous threads about plugs and COP's in the Mod motors........

-Use nothing but Motorcraft plugs as spec'd! This is due in part to a supposed difference in the cylinder head threads which makes any other brand not really compatible and able to torque or seal as Ford engineers orginally designed. It also seems the MC plug design is actually best for performance and fuel efficiency too.

-For your own comfort read a bit on the site blownsparkplugs.com which gives a lot of helpful advice and food for thought. Its just good reading even though I personally don't agree with everything they say about using anti-seize on the plug threads.

-Definitely use a nickel-based anti-seize on the plug threads and carefully torque them to at least 21 foot/pounds---factory calls for 7-13 ft/lbs but the plug threads can stand a bit more IF this is done carefully. (Again read blownsparkplugs.com!!)

-Definitely replace the boots ($8 each @ NAPA) and enough dielectric grease to exclude atmospheric moisture from migrating inside. Check the wiring harness connectors for the COP's, listening for a "click" when they're seated into the COP. (Make sure to put a dab of dielectric grease inside these connectors too!) When I changed plugs one of my connectors lost its locking ability and I chased a MIL misfire for a while before stumbling upon this. IF one of these needs replaced NAPA # EC259 for about $20 each does the trick.

-Definitely remove the front seats, air cleaner and maybe the throttle body inlet tube too-----not a bad time to check that duct for anything out of place; oil inside (bad PCV valve) or ill-fitting vacuum connections too. While you're at it check and maybe clean the MAF sensor---lots of threads about this procedure here, in the Mod motor forums both V-8 and V-10.

Read, read and read again threads here about plug changing-----do your research and take notes too-----in the end you'll be glad you did! This isn't the most difficult job done on a van BUT it is time consuming and just a bit scary the first time out-----too much misinformation and shade tree mechanics who've contributed to the myth blown plugs are just a matter of course for these motors. It does happen but probably more often than not due careless or clueless attempts which turn out to be the direct cause.

Tons of info here about this---search!!
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2011, 06:57 PM
EM1/SS(ret) EM1/SS(ret) is offline
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Wire bundles?

Quick question...

Did you guys pull the wire bundles? or did you just work around them? I was thinking about zip tying the cylinders together (injector and coil) and just pulling them all out the cab of the van to make the job that much easier.

I am doing this as gingerly as possible, but I know I am going to bust some plastic...those little fastener hoobies are replaceable right? or can I just use good ole zip ties?

So far, PCV, DPFE, EGR all removed and ready to be replaced...TONS of oil in the air intake...bad pcv right? Anything else I should look for while I've got it all tore up?

Thanks guys
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2011, 03:29 PM
EM1/SS(ret) EM1/SS(ret) is offline
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5 down..

5 down, 5 to go..

Pulled #4 out, and lo and behold, a thread repair insert came with it....no rtv, no nothing, it just screwed out with the plug..no difficulty what so ever..

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:29 PM
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1997, 350, coil, e350, ford, mileage, pack, plug, problem, replacement, replacing, rich, running, spark, spec, torque, v10, van

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