Help!! trying to change spark plugs on 1993 E350 with 460 engine Front plug on drivers side and 2 forward plugs on passengers side. Can it really be done?? Tip and/or tricks...anyone??
DoninDenver

 

I don't know about the 93, but I had a van with a 460 and cut holes from the fender well. I took the tire off and changed the plugs. I screwed a cover over it when I was done.

 

Just did mine last week in a 1987 460 E350. It is very tight. Passenger side was much easier. For drivers side, There was some rust in the fender well area, so I cut out some metal, making a larger hand hole for me, which helped a lot and resulted in less pain. You need at least one universal (swivel) joint and several extensions to do it.
Mine is a Quigley 4x4, so I had room with the wheels on, but you can increase your access by taking off the wheels.
Believe it or not, getting the drivers front plug back IN is the hardest part of the job! Removal is much, much easier!
Scott
P.S. - makes you realize how hard it woud be to drill out any broken bolts for the manifold!

 

I just changed the plugs on mine last week. Yes, it is a pain.

Front drivers side - I crawled under the vehicle and put the socket on the plug with a small extension. I then went top side and reached in past the power steering pump, inserted the rachett in the socket, and removed the plug. I then crawled under the vehicle again and put the plug back in from the bottom until it was finger tight. Went back up top and tightened the plug.

Passenger side front 2 - Beleive it or not they are both accessible from the wheel well. Remove the wire from the second back and put the socket on it. Look through the back of the wheel well, insert the socket and remove it. Getting the new plug started in the threads was difficult. All I can say is tilt it up as far as possible.

For the passenger side front plug crawl under the front of the vehicle and you can reach the front plug by reaching past the air pump. Put the socket on the plug and then (and this is important) lie down next to the front tire and look around the tire up through the fender well. You can't see it if you look striaght over the tire. You will then see the way to insert the rachett (with a long extension) in through the fender well to the socket. Once it is out you have to crawl back under and insert the new plug from the bottom.

Hope this helps. Have fun!

 

Thanks for the info. I'd actually just finished up when I got your e-mail. My "breakthrough" was realizing that trimming away some of the excess rigid fiberglass insulation at the back of the engine compartment opening would gain an extra 1/2" to 1" of clearance. That made all the difference. On the driver's side front plug it seemed impossible to maneuver an extension or a u-joint. I found that by using a Craftsman 3/8" drive plug socket that has a 3/4" hex at the back, I could reach forward along the head, slip the socket onto the plug and then use a ratchet and a short 3/4" socket on the back of the plug socket. I also found that taking off the wheel on the passenger side helps. It's still a nasty job and I understand why Ford wants $300 to do it.