If you don't have power to the red/blue stripe wire that engages the solenoid to make the starter work when you have the key held to 'start', it's time to back-trace from the key switch on the column to the battery and see where there is a problem. The switch is located on the column under the dash - right about where the trim wraps around the steering column. If the connector is loose, that could be a problem. If any connections are loose, burned, corroded, etc., that could be a problem. If the link between the key cylinder and the actual switch isn't moving anything, that could be a problem. I've seen all sorts of things happen on these setups, especially on Fords. In regards to your ground cables, you should have a direct link between the battery negative cable and the frame, as well as the engine block. There are several ground straps throughout your truck that should be checked for good clean, tight connections as well. If you notice bad wiring that is pretty obvious, that is a definite sign of needing repair or replacement. Happy hunting!

 

Most everything on your truck is powered from the ignition switch, but not the headlights and horn.

Are they working?

If not, try adding a jumper from negative post of battery to any handy spot on the engine block. Still no joy?

Try adding a jumper from positive battery post to starter relay & see what it does.

When I had the same problem & my truck fired right up when I added the jumper from negative post to engine block, i knew the negative cable was shot.

 

what do toy think of ths one

 

I don't think it will have a neutral safety switch on the column, considering it's a 5-speed. There is, however, the possibility that the clutch safety switch might be bad. I had almost forgot about that. Just sounds to me like things need a good going over and some things possibly replaced. Have you checked the battery at all? Considering you had a bad alternator, the battery might have dead-celled and isn't holding a charge.

 

Everyone turn to page to page 12-49 of your haynes manual if you have them( I hope the poster with the issue has a haynes manual). I think what I have understood is that you have isolated the problem to the starting system. ( you have a fully charged battery cable connections are good, head lights work, etc) You said starter has been tested. When the starter was tested was the solenoid on the starter tested also. You said you replace the solenoid 3 times. is the the solenoid/relay on the fender. assuming that your starter and starter solenoid are ok and that the fender relay is ok. there is not much left that can be wrong. the ignition switch could be bad( doesn't happen alot), the clutch positioning switch could be bad(this is more common) or the connections on the starter are bad, since you removed the starter to test it chances are they are ok. You are checking on the ground right? you should take your multimeter or test light and see if you have 12v at the red/lt blu wire coming from the ignition swithc at the Clutch postioning switch, ( remeber when you are testing this the ignition must be turned to start!!

 

hell yeah i got a haynes manual, it is the "original thick one", NOT like these cheesy ones they put out now I am going to try a few things mentioned on here so I will be out of the loop for a bit. But thanks for all the help, it is greatly appreciated.

 

And check that you have 12v at the largest red cable at the starter.

 

ok lets say this again....."I have no power as in electrical what-so-ever" cept for the battery positive goes to the solonoid and then nothing after that, hooked a jumper ground (#4 ga.) to the block and re-ran the ground that was connected to the starter mount to the frame and cleaned a spot with a wire brush for my drill to connect it, no power to the small "s" wire on the solonoid with switch in start position and neither at the clutch switch.....could this possibly be the ECM that might have shorted out, I opened it to see if there was a burn mark on the breadboard but couldnt find one

 

ok you have 12v at the starter/solenoid that comes from the battery.That is Good and you are saying that you have no power at the wire on the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch. you must be checking the side of the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch and the switch has to be at start. so if you have no power at the clutch switch then I would replace the ignition switch and see what happens. I assume you know a little of the history of the truck and that it was running before and you don't have any theft/ remote starter wired into it. I think in your first post you said you checked the fuses.
it is possible it is the pcm but it does not happen often. most of the time it is one of these switch's or a lose connection.

 

I will try that, the ignition switch and i do appreciate all the help, dont think it goes un-noticed, its just a ford electrical problem that is getting the best of me, thats why I love my old 84 f150 4 wd, i can go to a drugstore and get parts to fix it with and make it work, kinda like the difference between a briggs to a tejunkski small engine and with a ford its vac and electrical, if it ait got it it aint worth anything til fixed....lol and yes this truck is for a buddy of mine, i confess, maybe it will work for me know since it worked for the original guy here with the bronco ii so how many hail marys do i need to say....lol

 

Sounding more and more like it's the column-mounted ignition switch OR the fusible links are not connected to the battery side of the solenoid. You should be able to tell if you have power at the ignition switch by probing the connections there wire-by-wire.

Some of us still have the very-short-time produced Chilton's for the '83-92 Rangers/'84-
90 BIIs, as well as the Haynes. Bought them both when I had my '86 Ranger. I'm still planning on getting the shop manuals from Helm, Inc. The DIY stuff on Autozone is sometimes 'incomplete', and I really don't feel like paying for ALLDATA just yet

 

I always thought that the fuse link wires hooked to the terminal that goes to the starter because thats how it came off the original solonoid and I replaced the switch on top of the column itself and still nothing, i guess I am going to do some wire chasing when I get time this weekend and pull the fuse box down and see if anything is burned up there on the back of it.

 

The reason your headlights work with the key on or off is that the fuse links are all wired to a terminal on the starter RELAY that is hot at all times whether the key is on or off.

The starter RELAY connects 12 volts to the starter solenoid which is part of he starter.

 

ok Thanks for the help, i must confess that I MADE THE MISTAKE OF PUTTING THE WIRES ON THE WRONG SIDE, I looked at mine on the 84 and seen that the fuse link wire is on the hotside so I am now eating crow and going to go out there and switch them to the proper side and see if that works, and if it does, then I will probably make up some b.s. story to tell the guy who owns it, cause its a freebie for him and I do appreciate all the help and headaches that everyone has put up with from me....lol

 

Yeah, on most Fords the battery cable & fuse links attach to the same post on the relay.

Get some power to the fuse links and you should be good to go.

Time to break out the brewskis and have a celebration.