I've done the search, found numerous threads regarding the bad manifolds and bolts on mid 90's Fords. My question deals with the difficulty of removing the manifolds, and accessibility to the heads for broken bolt removal on a 94 E350 with a 460 in it. It belongs to my dad, a Fleetwood Searcher motorhome. It's had the notorious tick tick problem for a few years now, finally took it to a shop where they verified it has 2 busted exhaust manifold bolts.

Anyone that can give me any advice, secrets, (or lookout for this) on how difficult the job would be, PLEASE do. I have the tools, mostly need to make the time. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

 

I have a 460 in a 1987 with a slight leak. Finally found a shop that used to fix them, but they refuse to do anymore. It wasn't worth the aggravation. He said he had to spend a lot of time drilling with right angle drills, heli coils, taps, etc. and it wasn't worth it even if I paid him double time. His suggestion was that it was easier to pull the heads or the whole engine and insert a re-built one if mileage is high.
Fortunately, the leak is not that bad and I am just dealing with it for now.
I can believe how much of a pain it can be after changing the spark plugs last weekend - ouch, could that be any tighter?
Good luck. the access is just horrible.
Scott

 

Thanks for the info Scott. I finally did locate a lot of info on the problem, seems to be a widespread issue on early 90's and up. We were quoted approx. $300 to fix. Since it isn't a big problem at this point, we will let it go for the time being. Maybe this fall I'll tear into it. Down time won't be an issue then.

 

Don't have a easy solution for the broken bolt. There just is no easy fix other than remove the head. When you replace the manifolds, you can get aftermarket parts that solve the poorly designed factory manifold problem. Go to www.1aauto.com they have new manifolds

 

I just trashed my stock cast iron exhaust manifolds for the same broken-bolt reason. Had to remove the heads. Had a valve job done when they were off. I definately recommend running headers - they carry the heat away much more effectively which is the main reason the bolts seize then shear off....

 

I'd go with headers too, if it were my choice. Try convincing an 81 yr old to do that! We'll just wait until off season, park it in my drive and take our sweet time. Only reason I see fixing it right at all is he is thinking of selling it.

I appreciate the feedback guys, THANKS!