My dealer charged me 515 bucks and that was replacing the #5 COP, too. So I'd say he's asking too much money.

Quote:

WOW!! I just had my 1999 in the local dealer in Utah and they charged me 123.25 total. 86 labor 30 parts than tax. Ut. is probably too far to drive but I can't believe the difference. I wanted to do this myself but was afraid if I blew out a plug they would blame me. I still have 35,000 on ext warranty. My .02
Good luck!!!
I have 65,000 miles on the truck.

For a V-10 plug change? Whoa dude, I am coming up there to have it done then for that price! Tell me where and I am there. I go there four or five times a year!!!

 

Like it was said above, the left bank is really easy once you remove the air intake hose. The right bank is easy minus the two in the rear, which are knuckle busters for me, but I managed to get it all done in 2 hrs. Well worth not paying for it.

 

Be sure to blow out any dirt from around the plug before you pull it. When installing the new plugs, they should thread right in. If you encounter resistance, definetely check to make sure the threads didn't pick up a piece of dirt. Don't overtorque, don't undertorque.

Do you have 100K yet?

Eric

 

I recently had mine changed. It was 344.38. That included 105.00 for a broken coil pack. I provided the plugs so that would be 235.38 labor.

 

lol i can do that and a oil change in an hour
just sit on the inner fender and rest you r feet on the frame...
oh crap still enjoying my 1978 lol

 

did mine in like two hours. didn't torque one right..and boom,,she blew....bought a new instered her back in and off she runs.

 

Man, I'm really nervous doing this but I'm going to take a crack at it.
What tools do I need? Really....what tools do I need?

By the way, how do you think the Ford dealer will respond if I tell them the following:

"Make sure that your service guy torque all 10 plugs exactly to Ford's specifications. If it blows, I'm taking you to court, and I mean it. My wife is a lawyer"


Thanks.

 

I am not positive about the tools, but I do not think it requires anything special. Torqe wrench, sparkplug socket and swivels always help. I do recommend that you attempt the toughest one first before you get aggrivated and break something. After the toughest 2, it is all downhill.

 

Last week while I was having my trans fluid changed I checked with the stealer about the charges for changing the plugs. They want $145.00 to do it. I have 65K on my truck so I have a little time to make up my mind. I thank I will change them my self. I will miss my old 95 150 on the day I change the plugs.

 

99 F250 SD 4x4 V10

I am a rookie mechanic that changed my own plugs and they are still holding after 12K+ miles. Since we are in the same boat, here are my thoughts:

First of all, if you don't have at least 75K miles, I would wait. I bought my truck with 42K and saw the spark plug blowout issue, got freaked out, decided to change my plugs. Afterwards I found that all the plugs were in great shape and none of them were in any jeopardy of popping out. Ford says 100K on the plugs and I believe it.

But if you are going to change your spark plugs, do it yourself. That way you know 1) all the plugs were changed (I have read a couple posts from people that discovered the mechanic opted not to change to 2 hard-to-reach plugs), 2) the plugs are torqued correctly, and 3) that anti-seize lub was NOT used on the threads (see my comments below).

You will need:

- 10 Motorcraft platinum spark plugs, AWSF-22E, approx $3 each. Get the plugs from either from a Ford dealer or a parts store that sells that exact brand. I say this because the plugs have VERY few threads that actually screw into the engine, and you want to make sure you get the best fit possible. I went to Checker and they tried to give me a different brand that I could see would not sit the same. I was **** enough to bring a plug along from out of the truck to compare and was glad I did.

- Spark Plug gap tool. You can pick this up for a dollar along with your plugs. It allows you to set the spark plug gap to the specified .054 inch. I was surprised when I checked the gap on the plugs I bought they were VERY inconsistent and out of the recommended range.

- Torque wrench. I got one at autozone for a good price, you can spend anywhere from $20-$100+ for one of these. It's a ratchet wrench that allows you to set the amount of inch pounds before it 'gives-way' keeping you from applying to much force. The specs say 84 to 168 in-lbs. I set mine to roughly 170. I wanted as much torque without going over.

- A 5/8 inch hex spark plug socket. This is a socket that fits over the spark plug and has a rubber insert inside.

- A couple long extensions for the wrench. For those hard-to-reach places.

- A universal joint. You can snap this onto an extension (again to access those hard-to-reach places).

As for the how-to, go to www.mattstruck.com and towards the top you will see a link for "How to Change Your Spark Plugs" He has some great instructions and pictures (even tho it is a F150, it is very similar). Or pick up a Haynes manual at the parts store for a few bucks.

My recommendations:
1) Do NOT apply anti-seize lubricant to the spark plugs. There is none on the plugs out of the factory, and your plugs need all the 'grip' they can get to keep them from wriggling loose and blowing. I believe that spark plug blowout is caused by either incorrect torquing or using anti-seize on the plug threads. 2) You don't need to remove the fuel lines. It would give you more room, but it isn't worth the (big) hassle and mess. If anything, considering draining the coolant so you can remove the hose that covers the back two passenger-side plugs that are murder to get to.

I would start on the front passenger side plugs and work back. It will give you the hang of it with the first 2 plugs, then get progressively harder with the last 3. The driver side is cake. Just pull off the Air Intake and everything is easily accessible.

 

What an awesome post! Thanks!
Now, let's say I want to keep the original plugs in at 100k (I'm at 92k now).
The question is when do I know I really need to replace the plugs? Heck, if the truck runs well beyond 100k, should I even need to replace the plugs?

 

What's the percentage of engines with blown plugs?

How many blown plugs have there been AFTER using the anti-seize agent?

Torque is one of the keys, but also seating areas, thread mating, and the condition of the threads on the head to begin with.

We can toss this around (as we have many times here) and still not know for sure. Maybe one day someone can dish out the dough and magnaflux a few heads at the spark plug holes and tell us.

Until then my vote goes to #1: improper torque and #2: defective threads in head.

 

I agree, The passenger side you must disconnect a coolant hose, and even the PCV hose as well. The plugs are very hard to get to on the passenger side. But do not, I repeat do not get mad, they are possible of getting out, and none of this B.S. of not being able to get to the far last two, nonsense. Treat her nice and they'll come out. Talk to the truck, treat her better than your girlfriend. hehehehe.... Hey, Cburgess, I too am a rookie mechanic and oddly enough I also own a '99 F250 4x4 V10. Doing all the maintenance myself.

 

cburgess post is excellent! However I respectfully disagree on the anti seize point he is making. I will agree in one respect.... done improperly, anti seize can and frequently will work against what it is we are trying to accomplish.

But in the grand scheme of mating two dissimilar metals together, the benefits of antiseize outweigh the possible faults or failures.

Antiseize (properly applied) provides us with three very important benefits.

1. Galling occurs as two metal parts are slid against each other under pressure with enough force that some metal is moved forward and bunches up and makes the problem worse because the shifted metal tends to ball up and exponentially increase the pressure causing continued galling around the circumference of the mating surfaces. This galling causes torque inaccuracies. Antiseize prevents this.

2. Dissimilar metal corrosion induced by gavalnic action or by corrosive agents. Aluminum corrodes/oxidizes at a predictable rate and iron based metals (plugs) rust/oxidize. When you mate two dissimilar metals together they promote this corrosion. Two bad things from corrosion; Thermal resistance and ELECTRICAL resistance are increased. Most anitseize compounds inhibit or prevent this corrosion. They also have components that enhance electrical conductivity. CAUTION there are antiseize compounds on the market that are dielectric (insulators). Do not use this type as your plugs will not fire without a clear path to ground!

3. Thermal conductivity. The spark plugs are designed to conduct heat away from the tip of the plug AND the surrounding aluminum head area. Both the rough cut aluminum head threads and plug seat, and the spark plug threads and seat are not mirror smooth mating surfaces. The typical anitsieze compounds work to fill in the microscopic mating voids and increase thermal conductivity. Note that by preventing the corrosion in number 2 above antiseize works to enhance this conductivity also because rust and corrosion are good thermal barriers and do not properly conduct the heat as designed.

Fresh tube of antiseize is less than $5.00.

More is NOT better!

A small amount on the threads lightly coated with a small stiff bristled brush like a tooth brush or acid brush (those cheap metal tubes with 1/2" long black bristles on the end).

I first inspect each plug (you would be amazed at how many plugs I reject because somewhere along the way someone dropped one and the electrode in bent off center or all the way closed, usually if you put a magnifying glass to it you will see part of the center insulator is chipped or cracked)

I take a fresh throwaway acid brush and cut off half of the bristle length with scissors. Makes it stiffer and easier to use.

I dab a light coat into each plug and coat the threads so there is a difinate film but no buildup that fills the thread valleys. I also put a light coat around the tapered plug seat. And lastly I use a clean rag and ensure that the anitsieze is cleaned from the very bottom thread and taper so none is globed up and can get into the cylinder.

One last time, MORE IS NOT better!

I use a 4" to 6" inch piece of fuel hose that the plug will fit in to start each one by hand and turn in as far as the hose will grip until it slips. Then I tighten each plug to my first torque setting of 80 inch pounds.

Then I back each plug 1/4 turn loose. And reset my torque wrench to 100 inch pounds and torque each plug.

Final torque setting I use is also 170inch pounds and I use a calibrated click style torque wrench.

Saw that one of you posted about doing this on a warm or hot motor. I strongly recommend this job be done on a mild to warm day and that the engine be at normal outdoor temp between 60F to 90F for any accuracy with the proper torque.

 

Thanks, Fred. Well said.

Needs to be a sticky and this, among others, put in it, IMO.