I'm recently in the market for an F350 and strongly considering a 6.0 to tow a 23 foot ski boat up I-70 out of Denver (over mountain passes) and for 40+ winter days a year that I spend in Fraser Valley (the "Icebox of the nation") where the temp occas approaches -40.

I've read many of the posts here and remain concerned (mostly) about cold starts at -30 and reliability. I know sites like this tend to filter people with bad experiences, and I'm trying to keep that in mind while I decide.

Do additives really make for consistently reliable starts when it's < -30?

Are there any engine build dates for new trucks being sold now that I should be wary of?

Other than making sure my dealership has a certified 6.0 tech, what are other issues that any of you wish you had known BEFORE you bought your truck?

I've always owned trucks, but never a diesel, and (fear I say) never a Ford, so any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'd say that anytime you get into any temps less that -20F you had better plan on plugging it in to be sure it'll start. Once its running there isn't usually any problems as long as you fill up with #1 fuel

 

yep. and maybe get gas tank and oil pan heaters. It also helps to have it in a garage. In MO we had a storm that iced my doors shut (no ice on the outside, must be moisture in the locks and door mechanism). I plan on getting those and remote start once I move from TX to any cold place the Army sends me.

 

I work in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska where it gets -40F to -60F during the winter (-70F to -100F with windchill !!!). I would say 90% of the pickup trucks up here are Fords with either the 7.3 PSD or the 6.0 PSD. Most of the trucks idle all the time during the cold periods, but when they are not running we plug them in.

I believe all the new diesel trucks come with a block heater to heat the engine coolant. This is fine to keep the engine warm enough to start. The 6.0 PSD brouchure touts the fact that the engine will start with only the glow plugs to -10F. I have tried this and it will start, but you may be causing unnecessary wear on you internal engine components. You would want to add an oil pan heater to keep the engine oil warm to provide immediate pressure and lubrication upon startup. With an automatic transmission, a tranny pan heater is recommended for the same reasons. The batteries lose cranking power and reserves as it gets colder. If the voltage is low enough, the batteries can freeze and cause permenant damage to the plates. Battery heating pads and insulation wraps are also recommended. A four-way box (battery heaters are spliced together) is needed to wire all these heaters up underneath the hood. This will probably be about 1200 watts of draw, depending on heating component you add. At home, I run my outlet on a timer to conserve energy and cycle it 2 hours on / 2 hours off during the night and on a full 4 hours before I start it.

For winter driving, it is recommended to change the front differential to synthetic oil (the rear is already synthetic). A winter grill front will block cold air from the radiator, tranny cooler, powersteering pump, etc... This will allow your truck to maintain a normal engine temp when the tempatures really drop. I would highly recommend a AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module to allow you to idle the truck at higher RPMs. Order the AIC with the new truck for ~$180 because it is $600-$800 to add it post sale. The cab does not warm up very well at normal idle when it is -20F or colder. After about a few minutes at normal idle, I will set the AIC at ~1400 RPM.

Our trucks at work use #1 diesel without any additives and haven't had any problems with the fuel or starting. Personally I run additives for the lubrication properties, especially when running #1 or winter blend fuels. Do a search in this forum for DFA (Diesel Fuel Additives) for more information. The cetane boost may help starting, but nothing like plugging in. Some DFAs will lower you pour point 30-40F but if you are going to see -40F, run #1 with the additives for additional lubrication. You don't want to have your fuel gel and not be able to start your truck. A tow to the shop is going to cost you about the same or even more than properly winterizing your vehicle.

 

If you are in a remote location without power and need to warm your engine, check this link out Engine heater. It allows you to warm your engine AND interior without letting your vehicle idle. It even draws it fuel from the vehicles tank. I know a lot of people where I live put them in heavy equipment and bigger trucks. Webasto's website even shows them for cars and light trucks.

It might be off topic or not what you need, but is pretty neat none the less.

 

GREAT post Twin T, good to have experience in this situation

arcturner.........buy and enjoy

 

Has anyone thought about making sticky FAQ about towing, winter usage, etc. This is good info and sometimes it is hard to go through a couple hundred search posts to find this kind of info.

 

Twin Triton:

Thanks a bunch. That is a great resource. And those Webasto heaters look pretty handy too.

Mike

 

When I was in Crested Butte back in Feb. It was -25 after the sun went down. I plugged it in all night and it started up fine. When I was heading up that way through the pan handle I stoped in Ammarilo and noticed that the grill was SOLID ICE!!! It was that way for a week and a half until I got down around Dallas. But anyways the truck ran great in the cold. Just use #1 fuel and an additive to prevent jelling. You don't won't to experience jelling it is a serious pain in the you know what.

 

Motown Fire's post reminded me that one of the most important purchase for your diesel truck in a cold climate is a winter front which block the cold air in front of the radiator. Our work truck use a HD "vinyl or rubberized type" cloth that uses button snap to block the grill area. The snaps require drilling of the grill to mount them. This is not the most attractive solution, but very effective. It also has a zipper which allows you to open it up partially when tempuratures warm up some. Here's a link to a local company where I live that makes them Alaska Tent & Tarp



A more attractive solution is the Lund Cold Front which is available in both stainless steel and plastic. These panel snap into your current grill openings and don't require any drilling. Here's a link to Lund's website http://www.lundlook.com/products/grille/index.html .

 

I sure do like the Lund look, seems simple enought to do quickly.
Not that yours looks bad....its cool.

 

The picture of the truck is not mine, it's from the Tent & Tarp website. I can't bring myself to drill hole in my grill for snap. I personally use the Lund Cold Fronts. Some of their big truck winter fronts don't look too bad though.
http://www.alaskatent.com/products/c...t_bigtruck.jpg
http://www.alaskatent.com/products/c...front_yllw.jpg

 

I live in the plains of Colorado, south east of denver. I don't generally plug mine in, and it starts reliably. During hunting season, constant temps -0 are common, that is about the only time I use an additive to prevent gelling.

 

Thanks to all for posting. Some great info here.

RJB1: What about when it gets to 30 or 40 below? I park frequently in the MaryJane lot (without any place to plug in) and also stay in Fraser frequently, at a relative's place, where I may not be able to hog the 1 car garage all the time but can plug in there. My biggest concern is the ski area parking lot with no power. Have you found that gelling additive is enough when it gets that cold or has it been that cold in your neck of the woords recently?

The other ideas in this post are great; I'm not sure that I'm that committed to a diesel yet.

 

I have never had a problem with my PSD starting even after setting for a couple days in the mountains at sub zero. Typically, I'll keep the wind out of the radiator (if possible) and leave it parked outside and it always has started.

Bob