Toy box towing & calculating hitch weights
#1
Toy box towing & calculating hitch weights
This is a multiple part mumble:
Part 1: I'm a new "toy hauler" and bought a 7X14 to transport my toy's (my woodworking shop power tools) to a new home in Colorado. The trailer is a dual axel unit rated at 7000# which is well under what my 04 PSD can pull running up hill. But, on my tow hitch it says I should not put more that 500# of tongue weight on the hitch.
Now, the weight distribution diagram in my trailer book shows a 70/30 weight distribution split over the double axel's, so 70% of the weight is forward. Here's where the math gets me bogged down. 70% of 7000# is 4900# (assuming I was able to load the full 7K correctly). How much of that is going to be bearing down on the hitch?
Part2: All the label's on the hitch speak to the limits of the tow system, ie 500# max hitch load and 5000# max trailer gross weight. Can anyone tell me how this squares with the 15,000# trailer hitch I supposedly paid for and is listed on my invoice as installed?
Thanks to any one who can makse sense out of this for me.
making a living is not the same as making a life
Part 1: I'm a new "toy hauler" and bought a 7X14 to transport my toy's (my woodworking shop power tools) to a new home in Colorado. The trailer is a dual axel unit rated at 7000# which is well under what my 04 PSD can pull running up hill. But, on my tow hitch it says I should not put more that 500# of tongue weight on the hitch.
Now, the weight distribution diagram in my trailer book shows a 70/30 weight distribution split over the double axel's, so 70% of the weight is forward. Here's where the math gets me bogged down. 70% of 7000# is 4900# (assuming I was able to load the full 7K correctly). How much of that is going to be bearing down on the hitch?
Part2: All the label's on the hitch speak to the limits of the tow system, ie 500# max hitch load and 5000# max trailer gross weight. Can anyone tell me how this squares with the 15,000# trailer hitch I supposedly paid for and is listed on my invoice as installed?
Thanks to any one who can makse sense out of this for me.
making a living is not the same as making a life
#2
Your hitch should be a "Class 4".
This is some info from U-HAUL:
http://www.u-haul.com/hitches/selectahitch.pdf
Scroll down to the bottom of the page where they list the different hitches.
It looks to me that what you have is a "Class 3". Did I miss something?
This is some info from U-HAUL:
http://www.u-haul.com/hitches/selectahitch.pdf
Scroll down to the bottom of the page where they list the different hitches.
It looks to me that what you have is a "Class 3". Did I miss something?
#4
the reciever itself should be rated at 12,000 lbs and since the trailer your towing handles up to 7000 lbs you need to get a 10,000 lbs hitch. has far has weight distribution 10% should be on the tounge that's it. the rest on the trailers axles. if your using a weight distrubating hitch (which you don't need with that weight) the hitch itself redistrbutes the load however the weight on the hicth itself is the same
#5
Originally Posted by Dealford
Your hitch should be a "Class 4".
It looks to me that what you have is a "Class 3". Did I miss something?
It looks to me that what you have is a "Class 3". Did I miss something?
Originally Posted by 1991fseries
if your using a weight distrubating hitch (which you don't need with that weight)
1. Get a new receiver that has a higher load carrying capacity ($280 minimum)
2. Buy a weight distributing hitch (a little more than $300)
Originally Posted by 1991fseries
the hitch itself redistrbutes the load however the weight on the hicth itself is the same
I would recommend buying the weight distributing hitch. Even though your trailer isn't that long, it is fairly heavy at 7K#. You will also have it in case you want to buy a travel trailer or something else later. Reese is a good, economical way to go.
Last edited by johnsdiesel; 05-24-2004 at 02:22 PM.
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