1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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Ok here is my problem. I just noticed it today. My rear drier side is making a grinding noise. I put the truck in neutral and rolled it backwards with me sitting right by it. Its def coming from the rear driver side. My question is what do you guys think it could be? I have never done rear brakes, does this sound like a rear brake problem. Or is it maybe a wheel bearing. Any ideas would be great. I have a 95 f-150 I6 4x4
Ok I took off the back left tire and when I move the drum from side to side it grinds. So im 90% sure its my rear brakes. My question is are they hard? DO i need any special tools to remove anything. Just so i have everything before I go at it.
I have a haynes book. I dont think its the axle shaft bearing. It could be but with the rear end jacked up and i jiggle the drum side to side it grinds. You can hear the grinding. I think the shoes are grinding. My question is how hard are rear brakes. How easy does the drum come off? I mean it still could be a bearing but i really do think its the brakes. You can feel it grinding on the drum when you jiggle it.
my 88' was realy easy to do, but i had to redo them again be cause my driverside slave cylinder locked uped. the only thing i needed besides the normal stuff was tool im not sure the name of but its what you put on the end of the spring and stretch it to the post. hope this helps
If you've never done drum-brakes before. Tear down only one side at a time so the other side is your reference. Make sure to lube all the contact points and a new spring kit would be a good idea if the brakes havent been done in ages.
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Probably the brake.
When a axle bearing gets to the point its making a grinding noise there usually is oil leaking past the seal + detectable slop when lifting up on a brake drum and bad things are about to happen if the truck is driven.
Check the rear differential oil level while there just to be safe and the seals(visually)
I take a digital picture of the rear brakes with the drum off each side for a reference. If the brake drum pops off in less than 10 minutes you're halfway thru the job -- for me its usally getting/beating the brake drum off that eats all the time.
It is not hard to do if you know what you are doing. But you are risking your life and those around you with the consequences of failure. Be sure you have it right or get help. ditto with steering problems
Listen to Coplin, it's good advice. Make sure you get a brake spring removal/installation tool and ask someone how to use it. Everything is dirty right now, but that's not how it should be when you have it all back together. Also inspect the brake cylinders/pistons for any leakage and replace them if they show any brake fluid at all when you first inspect them. Check the flexible hoses that lead from the back of the caliper to the metal brake tubing on the rear axle. Any cracks in the rubber hose means it's time to replace them also, plus, if the back ones show cracks, then replace the fronts as well, or visa versa. Bleed the brakes and not just a little bit. You need to replace more than just your oil on a schedule. Brake fluid is hydrophilic (big word for water absorbent) and can suck moisture right out the air if left exposed to the atmosphere. Then the oil and moisture mix over time to form acid that eats your o-rings up in your brake system. Use a non synthetic good quality name brand brake fluid and change it by bleeding the brakes at least once every three years. Last, check out "bobistheoilguy" web site and take the time to educate yourself on your trucks fluids, not just the oil. It's the life blood of your truck. Having said all of this, if I were to do it, I would take several polaroid snapshots at different stages of the brake disassembly so I wouldn't have to keep running over to the other side of the truck, and I would take it to a shop to let them bleed the brakes. That way you don't have to worry about screwing up your antilock brake system if you inadverdently get air bubbles in it. Oh, and by the way, buy a tubing wrench to use on the brake bleed fitting. If I find out you rounded off that fitting by using just a box wrench, I'm going to come over to wherever you are and give you a swift kick in the rear! Then I'll help you fix it. Oh yeah, remember this: "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing or learning anything."
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