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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old 05-07-2004, 01:33 PM
F2501988 F2501988 is offline
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1988 F250 6 cylinder won't start

I have an 1988 F250 6 cylinder. One of the relay wires broke off.
I replaced the electronic relays. The truck cranks but it won't turn over. Is this a fuel pump problem? I have duel fuel tanks. Is the fuel pump in the tank or outside? Any help would be great.
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Old 05-07-2004, 01:42 PM
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Slade901 Slade901 is offline
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Which relay wire is this for?
More than likely you have an in-tank fuel pump.

First, you need to check for spark. Don't just disconnect the Ignition Coil wire and put it near the engine block because of the boot insulation, it might not get enough distance for the spark to travel. Get yourself an adjustable gap spark tester with clip and your local autoparts store. Use that to check for spark. If you get spark then you can try to proceed for fuel related problem. Spray some starting fluid at the intake and crank the engine to see if it starts for a while.
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Old 05-08-2004, 01:40 AM
ATCS2004 ATCS2004 is offline
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It sounds like the ignition modual. My 88 F-150 4.9L had the same problem. If you don't have spark it is probably that. When I changed mine I had to buy a special socket from NAPA to get it off ($7). NAPA checked the old one for me before I bought the new one. It was less than $45. There was a class action law suit a few years back dealing with these "Thin Film Ignition Moduals" and for extended the warranty to 100K. I had 108K when I had to change mine.
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:38 AM
F2501988 F2501988 is offline
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Thanks for the info

Can I get the ingnition module from any parts store or through Ford? What is the tool I need to take off the part? Is the module in the engine compartment and is it hard to get at?
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:38 AM
ATCS2004 ATCS2004 is offline
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The module is mounted to the side of the distributer. The tool you will need is a special 1/4 drive socket to get the module off. I tried to get mine off with a socket I already had, but the wall of mine was too thick and I couldn't get in in the hole to loosen the screws. NAPA has the special tool, just ask them for a Ignition Module tool for a Ford. I bought the tool first and then went back to NAPA and had them verify my old module was bad before I got the new one. NAPA should have the Part.

Good luck!
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Old 05-11-2004, 08:11 PM
F2501988 F2501988 is offline
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Thanks for all your help

Thanks for all your help
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Old 05-12-2004, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCS2004
The module is mounted to the side of the distributer. The tool you will need is a special 1/4 drive socket to get the module off. I tried to get mine off with a socket I already had, but the wall of mine was too thick and I couldn't get in in the hole to loosen the screws. NAPA has the special tool, just ask them for a Ignition Module tool for a Ford. I bought the tool first and then went back to NAPA and had them verify my old module was bad before I got the new one. NAPA should have the Part.

Good luck!
Some models(like mine)have the module mounted on the left inner fender.It has an aluminum base w/heat sink fins on it.
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:05 AM
larry derouin larry derouin is offline
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WHOA!!!! I know I'm probably gonna get FLAMED for this but what the HEY! I'm old enough to be able to say what I did and not worry about being politically correct in saying it!

Everybody is missing the original problem!! F2501988 said a wire on one of the relays broke and he replaced the relays! Did anyone think to ask if he repaired the wires??? DID HE???? If not, why?? and if so did that solve the problem?

Sounds like everyone jumped on a spark or lack of spark induced thread and is putting the fuel delivery problem on the back burner. I'd look at the system that originally caused the problem and verify CORRECT operation 1st before jumping around and throwing parts (he may be young and not have a lot of $$$$$$$!!!) at it for no obvious reason than "my truck did that."

Here's what he should have done.
1.) repaired the wire to the relay (we'll assume for the moment that it was the Fuel pump relay). Verify repair and operation of pump by turning on ignition.
2. If NO START....WHY???
a.) no fuel getting to the engine......(check fuel pressure on the Fuel Header with a gauge). Go back to one and trouble shoot no fuel pressure (electric pumps 1 ea in tank...Low pressure and a frame mounted HIGH Pressure pump. )
b.) no spark.....Check the coil for 12V on the positive side of the coil. check all the Spark wires for continuity an spec out oHms. Check gaps and condition of plugs (clean and regap or replace and GAP as necessary). Check all (engine to body, engine to frame, frame to body) system grounds for clean and tight connections (I've seen more problems caused by dirty connections than bad modules.) Trouble shoot the electrical system with a Multimeter per manual (get both Haynes and Chilton! What one doesn't cover the other one will.)

He may have jarred a connector loose fixing the wire to the relay. Make sure all the connectors are clean and tight on that side of the engine. (Pull each one apart, spray with contact cleaner and click back together.)

Lets all save each other some $$$$$ and think out the problem before putting it down on paper. Just because your truck did the "same thing"(died) doesn't mean that the exact same problem caused it. Trouble shooting with basic tools CAN be FUN and EDUCATIONAL (that means ya learn something sometimes!) and you SAVE $$$$ by doing it yerself and not giving it to the FORD DEALERSHIP!!!! Get the manuals, READ THEM, and go tear yer trucks down! Nothing like some dirt and grease under the nails to get Mom, girlfriend, or wife p***ed off at ya.......unless she's passing tools or doing her own work on the truck, then that's even better!

Larry
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:05 AM
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1986, 1987, 1988, 300, 49, 6cylinder, clicks, condition, cranks, cyl, cylinder, f150, f250, ford, issues, start

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