Control Arms Bushings
#1
Control Arms Bushings
How difficult / time consuming is it to replace the bushings on both the upper and lower control arms on these beasts?
I'm looking at having to rebuild the entire front end, all new bushings, balljoints, rack & pinion, etc...as well as the brake calipers. Also, for the control arm on the rear of the van ... is it possible to replace just the bushing? Or do I need to replace the entire control arm?
I'm looking at having to rebuild the entire front end, all new bushings, balljoints, rack & pinion, etc...as well as the brake calipers. Also, for the control arm on the rear of the van ... is it possible to replace just the bushing? Or do I need to replace the entire control arm?
#2
#4
It's not that terribly difficult. Just make sure you have a balljoint press handy since it makes the job a lot easier. The lower control arm bushing can be pressed out with the balljoint press too, but it can be done equally well with an air chisel. I have redone my front end recently. With new bushings, balljoints, rack-and-pinion, tierods, shocks, rotors, bearings, brakes, the car now drives just like new. It took me about two whole weekends for the job, but the result is well worth it. The worst part is the drive back and forth between home and the local autopart/hardware stores.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#5
I just did the upper and lower front bushings on my 89' rwd 150,000 miles and it wasn't that hard just a lot of time exept for the upper control arm bolts since there is barely enough room to get tools in there on the passenger side. I had the bushings pressed out and in since I didn't have the tools to do it myself, My suggestion to you is to buy all the parts before you start because some parts stores do not carry them as I found out !! Go with quality parts like Moog as you do not want to do this again soon. Now it rides tight ( it felt losse before).
Oh by the way you should replace the spring isolators both upper and lower because they'll be pretty beaten up. As far as the rear I don't know but I'll let you know once I do it 'cause that one is next
Oh by the way you should replace the spring isolators both upper and lower because they'll be pretty beaten up. As far as the rear I don't know but I'll let you know once I do it 'cause that one is next
#7
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#10
Make sure you support the cross member and frame!! and add some stands on the jack up areas before you do anything. After taking off the tire,calipers,rotors be really carefull when disconnecting the upper balljoint, make sure you put a chain with a bolt around the coil spring before slowly releasing it and lowering it. That spring is really dangerous . Once everything is off mark around the upper control plate just so you know where to reposition it to it's original place. You will have to remove the upper Balljoint and bracket (refered to in other posts as a whishbone) off of the arm so you can be able to remove those long bolts. Be ready to spend at least 8 hours removing and putting everything back and make sure you have a pipe and muscles 'cause you are going to need them.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#11
well i decided to take it in an have the them done by a friend of mine . well it wasnt that bad of a job . took the air breather an canster out to get to the front bushing . the air gun can get in there with np . then the back 1 was just a wrench it off just a slow an steady job the shaft was really rusty ..... lots of wd 40 to . the air cheasil took care of the what left of the old bushings . a qk grind on the edge of the bushing to get it in to the bracket an it pounded home with a hammer nice an ez .a qk clean up of the shaft an it was all done in about an hour an half . so hope this help some other pple wanting to do it .
#13
never touched the frame bolts at all . just undid the nuts on the shaft it self an they was 13/16 or a 21mm an u need it in a wrench an socket to do it . i live in the snow belt an mine was in bad shape but was able to get them done in about an hour an half on the pass side cause thats all i needed done. took longer to find the tools then it was to do the job i think
good luck
mark
good luck
mark
#14
#15
we used a air cheisle but im sure u can do it by hand with a hammer an a bit of sweat . all u have to do is get the nut an washer off an then u can just hammer it out with a punch an chesile . u can tap the new 1 on an use the nut to put it in place . few times of playing from front to back u will get them setted in place