Just finished front disc install '51 - awesome!
#1
Just finished front disc install '51 - awesome!
Hi
I've been browsing here for a while - I've found the info absolutely invaluable while working on my '51 Merc M-1. Thanks
I just wanted to share my experience doing my first larger-scale project on my truck - conversion to front discs.
I bought the basic kit ($110) which included brackets and bearing adapters from ECI. I also picked up one of their "combo" valves ($90) which incorporates proportioning and hold-off valves into the one unit, plus a bracket to mount the master cylinder into the stock location. They were a little leary about whether the Merc spindles and steering components would be that same as for the Fords - apparantly, I was the first Merc-owner that they knew of to buy one of their kits.
Since I'm in Canada, buying the complete kit would have cost me a fortune on shipping and currency exchange, plus your US prices are much higher than in Canada, so I bought the rest of the parts locally. - 71-76 GM big car calipers ($22 each), 11-inch 73-93 F150 rotors ($23 each), 67 - 72 mustang master cylinder ($34 new), and some easily-found bearings and hoses. I also picked up a new brake light switch (ford part#C1AZ-13480-A) which originally mounted to the master cyclinder, but is now mounted into one of the outlets in the combo valve.
ECI was great about providing part numbers and advice, although they really could use some pictures in their instructions - not that I couldn't understand them - it just would have been good for confirmation.
To make a long story short - everything bolted right in - absolutely no problems whatsoever. I was really worried about finding seized-up bolts (I don't have an impact wrench) but one of the good things about these old trucks is that there's so much grease on everything, it protects it all against rust. The hardest part was plumbing in the new master cyclinder and combo valve (and I decided to replace all of the old brake lines while I was at it) - I had a "loan-a-tool" double flaring tool that didn't like to make good flares - but I'm now finally leak-free.
I took it for it's first test drive yesterday, and HOLY CR*P, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Previously, the truck suffered from a nasty nose-dive tendency, liked to veer randomly left or right upon sudden braking, and was generally wild to bring to a stop.
Now, she's as smooth as silk - stops on a dime - in a nice straight line, too!
I can't believe what a difference this relatively simple job made.
Anyway, I just wanted to share that with you guys - and for anyone who was ever wondering - yes, the front end of a Merc seems to be identical to the Ford equivalents - at least in '51.
Again, thanks for posting such great advice.
Brian - Winnipeg, Manaitoba
I've been browsing here for a while - I've found the info absolutely invaluable while working on my '51 Merc M-1. Thanks
I just wanted to share my experience doing my first larger-scale project on my truck - conversion to front discs.
I bought the basic kit ($110) which included brackets and bearing adapters from ECI. I also picked up one of their "combo" valves ($90) which incorporates proportioning and hold-off valves into the one unit, plus a bracket to mount the master cylinder into the stock location. They were a little leary about whether the Merc spindles and steering components would be that same as for the Fords - apparantly, I was the first Merc-owner that they knew of to buy one of their kits.
Since I'm in Canada, buying the complete kit would have cost me a fortune on shipping and currency exchange, plus your US prices are much higher than in Canada, so I bought the rest of the parts locally. - 71-76 GM big car calipers ($22 each), 11-inch 73-93 F150 rotors ($23 each), 67 - 72 mustang master cylinder ($34 new), and some easily-found bearings and hoses. I also picked up a new brake light switch (ford part#C1AZ-13480-A) which originally mounted to the master cyclinder, but is now mounted into one of the outlets in the combo valve.
ECI was great about providing part numbers and advice, although they really could use some pictures in their instructions - not that I couldn't understand them - it just would have been good for confirmation.
To make a long story short - everything bolted right in - absolutely no problems whatsoever. I was really worried about finding seized-up bolts (I don't have an impact wrench) but one of the good things about these old trucks is that there's so much grease on everything, it protects it all against rust. The hardest part was plumbing in the new master cyclinder and combo valve (and I decided to replace all of the old brake lines while I was at it) - I had a "loan-a-tool" double flaring tool that didn't like to make good flares - but I'm now finally leak-free.
I took it for it's first test drive yesterday, and HOLY CR*P, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Previously, the truck suffered from a nasty nose-dive tendency, liked to veer randomly left or right upon sudden braking, and was generally wild to bring to a stop.
Now, she's as smooth as silk - stops on a dime - in a nice straight line, too!
I can't believe what a difference this relatively simple job made.
Anyway, I just wanted to share that with you guys - and for anyone who was ever wondering - yes, the front end of a Merc seems to be identical to the Ford equivalents - at least in '51.
Again, thanks for posting such great advice.
Brian - Winnipeg, Manaitoba
#4
#6
follow-up on costs
Hi guys
Cost-wise, here's the breakdown
Basic kit - $110
Combo Valve - $89
MC mounting bracket - $44
2lb residual pressure valve - $22
Total - ~$265 US which would be around $375 CDN
I think shipping was another $20 US, plus around $25 for gst, and another $25 for UPS to clear the shipment through customs.
So, when all was said and done, we're probably looking at $450 - $500 CDN for the US parts.
The local parts prices, I listed in my original post.
Bottom line - not really cheap, but since I use the truck as a daily driver all summer, and I regularly have my two sons with me, the added safety these brakes have given me is very well worth it.
And by the way - if anyone in Winnipeg is interested in any of the original brake hardware - drums, cylinders, hubs (5 on 5.5), master cylinder, etc - they'll be going into the trash within a week or two - so if you want 'em, let me know.
Cost-wise, here's the breakdown
Basic kit - $110
Combo Valve - $89
MC mounting bracket - $44
2lb residual pressure valve - $22
Total - ~$265 US which would be around $375 CDN
I think shipping was another $20 US, plus around $25 for gst, and another $25 for UPS to clear the shipment through customs.
So, when all was said and done, we're probably looking at $450 - $500 CDN for the US parts.
The local parts prices, I listed in my original post.
Bottom line - not really cheap, but since I use the truck as a daily driver all summer, and I regularly have my two sons with me, the added safety these brakes have given me is very well worth it.
And by the way - if anyone in Winnipeg is interested in any of the original brake hardware - drums, cylinders, hubs (5 on 5.5), master cylinder, etc - they'll be going into the trash within a week or two - so if you want 'em, let me know.
#7
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#8
Hey a Winnipegger.....cool, my folks live in Kenora. Dad goes up for Pony Coral sometimes with his Lil Red Express.
Good info on the brake swap, glad it worked for you and the results were positive. You spend that much $$$$$ you want some feel for improvement.
I plan on doing this swap this summer as my old M/C is needing a pump now, so I'm going to upgrade it all.
Thanks for the break down on what it cost too.........very helpful
Good info on the brake swap, glad it worked for you and the results were positive. You spend that much $$$$$ you want some feel for improvement.
I plan on doing this swap this summer as my old M/C is needing a pump now, so I'm going to upgrade it all.
Thanks for the break down on what it cost too.........very helpful
#10
#12
No power booster - I went with the recommendation of the folks at ECI. I'm not sure what benefit it might bring.....I know that the brakes now couldn't be easier to use....there's no effort involved whatsoever.
Also, I don't know if a booster would even fit - the Master cylinder is located under the cab - mounted to one of the crossmembers - so there's not much room - barely enough for the m/c itself - so I doubt that the extra diameter of the booster could be accomodated.
The new m/c is off of a 67 mustang - for a disc/drum setup - so it has a built-in 10lb residual pressure valve going to the rear brakes. I'm told that model had power brakes originally.
The nice thing about this m/c is that it accepted the stock pushrod and rubber boot without any problems. All I had to do was adjust the "adjusting bolt" on the pushrod so that it went an extra half-inch into the m/c - the extra length was probably caused by the depth of the mounting bracket used to bolt the m/c into the stock position.
As far as the tech article goes - I can do that, although I didn't take any photos as I was working, but I could include a couple of the finished product.
Anyone know what kind of format the FTE folks prefer for something like that?
Brian
Also, I don't know if a booster would even fit - the Master cylinder is located under the cab - mounted to one of the crossmembers - so there's not much room - barely enough for the m/c itself - so I doubt that the extra diameter of the booster could be accomodated.
The new m/c is off of a 67 mustang - for a disc/drum setup - so it has a built-in 10lb residual pressure valve going to the rear brakes. I'm told that model had power brakes originally.
The nice thing about this m/c is that it accepted the stock pushrod and rubber boot without any problems. All I had to do was adjust the "adjusting bolt" on the pushrod so that it went an extra half-inch into the m/c - the extra length was probably caused by the depth of the mounting bracket used to bolt the m/c into the stock position.
As far as the tech article goes - I can do that, although I didn't take any photos as I was working, but I could include a couple of the finished product.
Anyone know what kind of format the FTE folks prefer for something like that?
Brian
#14