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  #1  
Old 05-02-2004, 08:47 PM
eboydog eboydog is offline
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4.0 Lower intake gasket & coolant leak

Should I put gasket sealant around the ends of the lower gasket (the Chilton book states to use a "Silicon Sealant") ???

I believe I know my answer but I thought I would ask, after two attempts in replacing the lower gasket with in one week after using RTV red, I am getting coolant leaks.

Is there a trick that I am not aware of here ?? I am about to dump the coolant again and redo it all again, I really taking on these projects on Sunday!

HELP !!
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  #2  
Old 05-03-2004, 06:36 AM
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Rockledge Rockledge is offline
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A few weeks ago I replaced the Lower Intake Gasket job on my 4.0L. Right after I was done, I put together a "how-to" article on the process, and I included a few images showing where I put down the RTV.

Maybe it will help: 4.0L Lower Intake Gasket Replacement

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  #3  
Old 09-16-2004, 02:54 AM
Loan Ranger Loan Ranger is offline
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BLACK RTV silicone sealant is best for use in assemblies that will seal water. Too, it must be sensor-safe RTV to keep the oxygen sensor from "sniffing" it and ruining your fuel mixture. Granted, the use of RTV instead of a gasket goes against my "old school" mind set; still, the new Eaton truck differentials use NO gaskets at all--they are totally RTV sealed. With better metallurgical compounds, better and more precise machining, and better sealants, it is safer than what it would have been back in my "old school days."
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:51 PM
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DO NOT!! I REPEAT DO NOT follow the torque specs on this install sheet. after 22 lb-in i broke a bolt...i was pissed, but decided to go ahead and try the 88 lb-in of torque on another. SNAP!! the 2nd bolt broke...tried again, third bolt broke...yeah intake manifold bolts not meant for this kind of torque. this is BS do not follow this sheet.....after 22lb of torque they all snapped...thanks dude




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockledge View Post
A few weeks ago I replaced the Lower Intake Gasket job on my 4.0L. Right after I was done, I put together a "how-to" article on the process, and I included a few images showing where I put down the RTV.

Maybe it will help: 4.0L Lower Intake Gasket Replacement

P.S. Welcome to FTE!
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  #5  
Old 09-26-2010, 10:54 PM
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Rockledge Rockledge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joel045 View Post
DO NOT!! I REPEAT DO NOT follow the torque specs on this install sheet. after 22 lb-in i broke a bolt...i was pissed, but decided to go ahead and try the 88 lb-in of torque on another. SNAP!! the 2nd bolt broke...tried again, third bolt broke...yeah intake manifold bolts not meant for this kind of torque. this is BS do not follow this sheet.....after 22lb of torque they all snapped...thanks dude


The torque specs specified are straight out of the '98 Ford Workshop Manual.
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joel045 View Post
DO NOT!! I REPEAT DO NOT follow the torque specs on this install sheet. after 22 lb-in i broke a bolt...i was pissed, but decided to go ahead and try the 88 lb-in of torque on another. SNAP!! the 2nd bolt broke...tried again, third bolt broke...yeah intake manifold bolts not meant for this kind of torque. this is BS do not follow this sheet.....after 22lb of torque they all snapped...thanks dude


The torque specs I specified are straight out of the '98 Ford Manual.

Funny how I posted that fix over 5 years ago and never got any feedback about torque specs until today.

Here's my take: You messed up the repair, and so now it's YOUR PROBLEM ..."dude."
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockledge View Post
The torque specs I specified are straight out of the '98 Ford Manual.

Funny how I posted that fix over 5 years ago and never got any feedback about torque specs until today.

Here's my take: You messed up the repair, and so now it's YOUR PROBLEM ..."dude."
i dont know how you could mess up tighting bolts lol, unless all my bolts are defective or something, but yeah, hand tighted them and then snugged them a little. then began the torquing and one after another they all snapped going over 22ft-lbs, well not all, i think 3 and i knew that was too much, didnt mean to attack you dude, i was just pissed off
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  #8  
Old 09-27-2010, 04:03 PM
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Rockledge Rockledge is offline
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Originally Posted by joel045 View Post
i dont know how you could mess up tighting bolts lol, unless all my bolts are defective or something, but yeah, hand tighted them and then snugged them a little. then began the torquing and one after another they all snapped going over 22ft-lbs...
You messed it up by misreading the torque specs posted in the article:

Step 1: Tighten to 2.5 Nm (22 lb-in).
Step 2: Tighten to 10 Nm (88 lb-in).
Step 3: Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in).

Step 4: Tighten to 14-18 Nm (11-13 lb-ft).

Important note:
lb-in = inch pounds
lb-ft = foot pounds
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  #9  
Old 10-03-2010, 09:11 PM
xlt4wd90 xlt4wd90 is offline
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First, thanks to Rockledge for posting those instructions. I wish I had seen something like that before I did the work on my Aerostars.

Joel, Are you sure the threads on your bolts or the holes in the heads are clear?

I did this gasket replacement on 2 different 4.0 liter engines, and had no problem with the torque sequences provided by Fel-Pro, which are similar to these numbers. I had to repeat each stage in order to get the torque to stabilize before going to the next stage.

Having said that, a couple years ago I was assembling a small block Ford v8, and I had a terrible time with the intake manifold bolts. It turned out I got some really soft flat stainless steel washers in the intake bolt kit from Summit. They prevented the bolt heads from properly seating on the bosses on the intake manifold, and I also snapped 3 bolts. I eventually got some lock washers that properly fitted into the recesses in the bosses, and was able to correctly torque down the bolts without breaking another.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:52 PM
joel045 joel045 is offline
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yeah i dont know, i think he hes prob correct with the torqu pounds, the bolts were just too weak..i'am in the proccess of taking the heads off now to replace the head gaskets...but none of the bolts will come off (of course) ive been using bp blaster and beating the crap out of the exhuast bolts for 2 days now....not a chanve getting the manafold bolts off.....we shall see......gonna keep hitting alll the bolts with bp blaster then going to hit them with a torch in 2 days and melt them off if they dont come off lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90 View Post
First, thanks to Rockledge for posting those instructions. I wish I had seen something like that before I did the work on my Aerostars.

Joel, Are you sure the threads on your bolts or the holes in the heads are clear?

I did this gasket replacement on 2 different 4.0 liter engines, and had no problem with the torque sequences provided by Fel-Pro, which are similar to these numbers. I had to repeat each stage in order to get the torque to stabilize before going to the next stage.

Having said that, a couple years ago I was assembling a small block Ford v8, and I had a terrible time with the intake manifold bolts. It turned out I got some really soft flat stainless steel washers in the intake bolt kit from Summit. They prevented the bolt heads from properly seating on the bosses on the intake manifold, and I also snapped 3 bolts. I eventually got some lock washers that properly fitted into the recesses in the bosses, and was able to correctly torque down the bolts without breaking another.
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  #11  
Old 10-04-2010, 02:54 PM
xlt4wd90 xlt4wd90 is offline
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I had a similar problem with the Y-pipe bolts on one of my Aerostars. I also drenched it with WD-40 for a day, and ended up using a 6 point socket with a 1/2" breaker bar and an extension handle. When the bolt first let loose, it made such a loud pop that it sounded like I broke something. After checking to make sure nothing was broken, I continued. It made a few more pops, but it did loosen up.

I've never tried loosening the exhaust manifold bolts though. Good luck with those.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:54 PM
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