Advice for picking camshaft-
#1
#2
Give comp cams 1-800-999-0853 or crane 386-258-6174 a call and see what they have available, crane has a couple options for sure, comp should. I know a few that have used the crane powermax in efi vehicles seem to like them, should work just as well in your carbed motor. You could also call clifford performance, they specialize in the inline 6 motors 909-303-2333. Paw performance offers a camshaft for the inline ford 6, its not necessarily an "RV" camshaft but it should wake it up a bit, not to mention its only $58, 818-678-3000. Good luck with your project
#3
Whenever you consider a cam, you need to think about the RPM range the ENGINE ITSELF is best suited for.
Yeah - there are a lot of HOT yippee skippy cams out there, but if the rest of your engine isn't built to support it you could get in trouble.
SO you want a cam matched to what your mill can do. What heads are on it? Do you have trick rods?
Ford engines are notorious for rod end cap failure, and the way beyond that is better hardware.
What I am telling you is "DON'T OVER-CAM your ENGINE".
I am also saying "MATCH THE RPM RANGE TO WHAT YOU RUN IT AT".
That is a good idea too.
Let me ask you something - if you have a tach - what is the most you have ever seen it read?
The average range is where you want your power to kick in, and valve timing is critical to where that happens.
You want a cam that gives you the best power at the range you usually run at. This is matched to engine RPM at that time - don't just run right out and get a wide-open .500 lift maxicam....
*I have one of those, for a 351W. That thing frankly worries me... I'd have to have a block and rolling equipment specially matched to handle it.
If everything you have on your engine is stock - what you want is a mild increase, not a monster.
PS: Schnieder cams in San Diego California builds all kinds of cams for high performance, but a friend of mine once warned me that they are made of softer metal that will not last forever.
If you plan on it lasting a long time, you should look for reviews about that.
Something else:
The heads, ports, valves, stroke, general engine characteristics, method of aspiration, lightness of crank, flywheel, and several other parameters will have a lot to do with what cam is ideal.
For matched sets of intake equipment HOLLEY/EDELBROCK is just about the best way you can go with a FORD engine.
Fortunately for us, they are also one of the site sponsors, and I am not saying that because I am a SHILL for them - it is what it is.
Those guys are old time participants in hotrodding, they have tons of experience.
Pesonally? I'd drop a 302 in there and scream "YIPPEE KYE AYE!!!" while I did a massive burnout....
Yeah - there are a lot of HOT yippee skippy cams out there, but if the rest of your engine isn't built to support it you could get in trouble.
SO you want a cam matched to what your mill can do. What heads are on it? Do you have trick rods?
Ford engines are notorious for rod end cap failure, and the way beyond that is better hardware.
What I am telling you is "DON'T OVER-CAM your ENGINE".
I am also saying "MATCH THE RPM RANGE TO WHAT YOU RUN IT AT".
That is a good idea too.
Let me ask you something - if you have a tach - what is the most you have ever seen it read?
The average range is where you want your power to kick in, and valve timing is critical to where that happens.
You want a cam that gives you the best power at the range you usually run at. This is matched to engine RPM at that time - don't just run right out and get a wide-open .500 lift maxicam....
*I have one of those, for a 351W. That thing frankly worries me... I'd have to have a block and rolling equipment specially matched to handle it.
If everything you have on your engine is stock - what you want is a mild increase, not a monster.
PS: Schnieder cams in San Diego California builds all kinds of cams for high performance, but a friend of mine once warned me that they are made of softer metal that will not last forever.
If you plan on it lasting a long time, you should look for reviews about that.
Something else:
The heads, ports, valves, stroke, general engine characteristics, method of aspiration, lightness of crank, flywheel, and several other parameters will have a lot to do with what cam is ideal.
For matched sets of intake equipment HOLLEY/EDELBROCK is just about the best way you can go with a FORD engine.
Fortunately for us, they are also one of the site sponsors, and I am not saying that because I am a SHILL for them - it is what it is.
Those guys are old time participants in hotrodding, they have tons of experience.
Pesonally? I'd drop a 302 in there and scream "YIPPEE KYE AYE!!!" while I did a massive burnout....
#6
#7
I wonder if there is a glitch in the old and new forum transfer. When I thought about it more, I wondered if I should tell an admin that this happened
IT JUST PLAIN POPPED UP IN MY SUBBED THREADS - that's kind of weird
You know what? Lately I see things listed as "SIMILAR THREADS" under the thread bottom that are very old.
I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Some of them go all the way back to 2000
IT JUST PLAIN POPPED UP IN MY SUBBED THREADS - that's kind of weird
You know what? Lately I see things listed as "SIMILAR THREADS" under the thread bottom that are very old.
I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Some of them go all the way back to 2000
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#8
I see the thread thing, may be of use, maybe not. Something to watch I suppose. IIRC, the last "subscribed" notice I got was when there was a new post on something from years ago. The new post turned out to be a newbie or someone searching, nothing surprising there.
Who knew the interweb and sites like this could be so unpredictable and exciting.....
Who knew the interweb and sites like this could be so unpredictable and exciting.....
#9
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Micbruff
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-05-2014 08:17 PM